some_cs_student

Its debatable, some test and find 1kw difference, others insist there is a difference...search the previous posts on the subject

Well, the UK article *is* based around non-Nismo clusters, I *happened* to use it for my Nismo speedo as its the same sort of PCB. I've posted it in the tutorial sections twice but nothing happens, do the moderators have some special control on that section of the website? And I'm sure its mentioned somewhere in the white-faced dials group buy about the same adjustment, it just wasn't clear. I'll re-post tomorrow but here's the tutorial, have a quick read and tell me what you think (it includes the 4 images from the previous post): This tutorial is partially based off the information from Propper speedometer to MP/h conversion by andy42uk-2 on SkylineOwners.com (registration required). Problem The speedo reads incorrectly, in my case I was under by 7km/h at 100km/h, for some owners this is perfectly fine, for me I found this quite annoying as I always see people passing me in 60, 70 and 100km/h zones because I am under the speed limit, but I don't know by how much because I don't have a GPS in the car. Solutions Besides the obvious, accept that your speedo is inaccurate and guess, you may wish to install an electronic device that will allow you to tweak your speedo reading, as per Blk33's Speedo Corrector, Speedo Corrector Installed on a R33 GTR One alternative I found, as mentioned at the very top of this tutorial, is that the European skyline owners commonly modify there speedo's from km/h to mp/h without any electronic converters, and this works great for them. The cluster I was working with In theory, its the same for R32, R33, and I believe even R34, but I have only tried this on a Nismo 320km/h speedo, as pictured in the attached images. Removing the cluster Removing the dash is quite straight forward its described in detail in the stereo howto's, once you have that off the R33 has 2 screws at the top of the cover for the cluster, and two at the bottom. Once you remove the front cover, there are a further 3 screws holding in the cluster. When you remove the cluster, there are 3 large connectors on the back, each connection requires you to press the top and bottom at the same time to remove any of the 3 large plugs. There is also a little hook that holds the cables in, you simply remove the cables from its path... I was unable to remove the power connector from the side of the cluster, I worked with the cluster in the car which was annoying. Removing the big black plastic thing from the cluster There are small black plastic things that hold the cluster together, they are very strong and I didn't find a simple way to push the pins down to release it, once you get a few of them down the cluster will come apart. Once done, you need to remove the unscrew the 4 small screws on the back of the speedo itself. Once done you will have the speedo out by itself... The adjustment solder pads On the speedo (pictured) there are small pads numbered 0 to 9, right next to the "ADJ" (adjustment). Some of them will have a piece of solder on them joining the two sides together, others will have nothing. According to the tutorial I referenced, removing a link increases the speed of the speedometer, I found the opposite. Testing If you have the correct equipment you could test the speedo on a bench, I had no such equipment so all testing was done manually, this was quite frustrating as it involved connecting things back up again each time to drive the car with a GPS in it and test it, but I think its worth it . My results These results are for an R33 GTR with a Nismo 320km/h cluster, here's what I found, the picture is *before* any modifications were made, there are always some of the "ADJ' already joined when you start. At first there were: 2,3,5,6,7 all joined together by neat little solders, I was roughly 7km/h under at 100km/h when last tested but I didn't test this time (in retrospect it would have made a good baseline) Removed the connection (the solder) for no 2, ~6km/h under around 60 km/h, 70km/h showed a similar difference. Then, decided it needed more, so we removed: no.3 and no.5, consistently 10km/h under (worse!), so 60km/h was 50km/h, 70km/h was closer to 60km/h. I decided at this point that maybe its backwards and I need to "add" new ones, so 6 and 4 were soldered in 3km/h under at 60km/h, 5km/h under at 80km/h. To summarise, 4,5,6,7,8 are now joined, so joined no 9. Appeared to make little difference, 3km/h under at 70km/h, not 100% sure that the join worked there. Decided to keep tweaking, added 3 and 1, now about 2km/h under at 80km/h (roughly) and 99km/h or 100km/h at 100km/h compared with the GPS, I also did further testing with a PowerFC, and its close to 58km/h at 60km/h, which is great. The only thing I remembered afterward is I'm running 235/45/17 and I should be running 245/45/17 which will make it really damn close to perfect. The other important note is the speedo itself is not perfect, the bottom of the 60km/h mark is 57km/h, but the top is 60km/h or 61km/h. Should you do it? It worked for me, I'm not guaranteeing it will work for you, its not that hard but its time consuming, I recommend you try it on a weekend where you have spare time if you are going to attempt this. According to the UK forums no. 9 is the largest movement and no.1 is the smallest I am not sure if this applies to km/h, as the UK forums also mentioned something above adding links to reduce speedo reading, I found the opposite... If you try it PLEASE post your results in this thread, I'm sure it varies for everyone...

This tutorial is partially based off the information from Propper speedometer to MP/h conversion by andy42uk-2 on SkylineOwners.com (registration required). Problem The speedo reads incorrectly, in my case I was under by 7km/h at 100km/h, for some owners this is perfectly fine, for me I found this quite annoying as I always see people passing me in 60, 70 and 100km/h zones because I am under the speed limit, but I don't know by how much because I don't have a GPS in the car. Solutions Besides the obvious, accept that your speedo is inaccurate and guess, you may wish to install an electronic device that will allow you to tweak your speedo reading, as per Blk33's Speedo Corrector, Speedo Corrector Installed on a R33 GTR One alternative I found, as mentioned at the very top of this tutorial, is that the European skyline owners commonly modify there speedo's from km/h to mp/h without any electronic converters, and this works great for them. The cluster I was working with In theory, its the same for R32, R33, and I believe even R34, but I have only tried this on a Nismo 320km/h speedo, as pictured in the attached images. Removing the cluster Removing the dash is quite straight forward its described in detail in the stereo howto's, once you have that off the R33 has 2 screws at the top of the cover for the cluster, and two at the bottom. Once you remove the front cover, there are a further 3 screws holding in the cluster. When you remove the cluster, there are 3 large connectors on the back, each connection requires you to press the top and bottom at the same time to remove any of the 3 large plugs. There is also a little hook that holds the cables in, you simply remove the cables from its path... I was unable to remove the power connector from the side of the cluster, I worked with the cluster in the car which was annoying. Removing the big black plastic thing from the cluster There are small black plastic things that hold the cluster together, they are very strong and I didn't find a simple way to push the pins down to release it, once you get a few of them down the cluster will come apart. Once done, you need to remove the unscrew the 4 small screws on the back of the speedo itself. Once done you will have the speedo out by itself... The adjustment solder pads On the speedo (pictured) there are small pads numbered 0 to 9, right next to the "ADJ" (adjustment). Some of them will have a piece of solder on them joining the two sides together, others will have nothing. According to the tutorial I referenced, removing a link increases the speed of the speedometer, I found the opposite. Testing If you have the correct equipment you could test the speedo on a bench, I had no such equipment so all testing was done manually, this was quite frustrating as it involved connecting things back up again each time to drive the car with a GPS in it and test it, but I think its worth it . My results These results are for an R33 GTR with a Nismo 320km/h cluster, here's what I found, the picture is *before* any modifications were made, there are always some of the "ADJ' already joined when you start. At first there were: 2,3,5,6,7 all joined together by neat little solders, I was roughly 7km/h under at 100km/h when last tested but I didn't test this time (in retrospect it would have made a good baseline) Removed the connection (the solder) for no 2, ~6km/h under around 60 km/h, 70km/h showed a similar difference. Then, decided it needed more, so we removed: no.3 and no.5, consistently 10km/h under (worse!), so 60km/h was 50km/h, 70km/h was closer to 60km/h. I decided at this point that maybe its backwards and I need to "add" new ones, so 6 and 4 were soldered in 3km/h under at 60km/h, 5km/h under at 80km/h. To summarise, 4,5,6,7,8 are now joined, so joined no 9. Appeared to make little difference, 3km/h under at 70km/h, not 100% sure that the join worked there. Decided to keep tweaking, added 3 and 1, now about 2km/h under at 80km/h (roughly) and 99km/h or 100km/h at 100km/h compared with the GPS, I also did further testing with a PowerFC, and its close to 58km/h at 60km/h, which is great. The only thing I remembered afterward is I'm running 235/45/17 and I should be running 245/45/17 which will make it really damn close to perfect. The other important note is the speedo itself is not perfect, the bottom of the 60km/h mark is 57km/h, but the top is 60km/h or 61km/h. Should you do it? It worked for me, I'm not guaranteeing it will work for you, its not that hard but its time consuming, I recommend you try it on a weekend where you have spare time if you are going to attempt this. According to the UK forums no. 9 is the largest movement and no.1 is the smallest I am not sure if this applies to km/h, as the UK forums also mentioned something above adding links to reduce speedo reading, I found the opposite... If you try it PLEASE post your results in this thread, I'm sure it varies for everyone...

Thanks, I was planning to write a tutorial, but then I decided to be lazy and just link off the existing tutorial about using the Jaycar device. Do you think its worth writing a tutorial on this? Not sure if anyone else is as fussy as me when it comes to running 7km/h under the speed limit, I always thought everyone else was speeding until I got the GPS. lol I might try writing some kind of tutorial later today when I get time....

I had a go at it here, I was about 7km/h out to begin with, made it worse than got better through trial and error, I provide no guarantees it will work for anyone else. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...02#entry4570002 Please read through the posts that I link to, there is a 10page article on how to go from km/h to mp/h, it provides a lot more detail than what I posted but what they did didn't work for me

Did the mod today, it was interesting, with km/h I'm getting very different results to what was advised in the tutorial. Here's what I did. At first there were: 2,3,5,6,7, so no. 2 was removed, and it was ~6km/h under around 60 km/h, 70km/h showed a similar difference. So I removed the connection (the solder) between no.3 and no.5, tested again, consistently 10km/h under (worse!), so 60km/h was 50km/h, 70km/h was closer to 60km/h. At this point I thought maybe the numbers were similar to km/h, so put 6 and 4 in, they were connected with solder again, 3km/h under at 60km/h, 5km/h under at 80km/h, still not happy. 4,5,6,7,8 are now joined, so joined no 9. Appeared to make little difference, 3km/h under at 70km/h I added 3 and 1, soldered them back in, now about 2km/h under at 80km/h (roughly) and 99km/h or 100km/h at 100km/h compared with the GPS, it appears to be more accurate at higher speed, at this point I decided close enough. I've attached pics of what the back of the speedo looked like before I started. Not sure why I got the opposite of what the UK group advised, maybe when they add an extra link elsewhere it changes things.... Not sure if other people want to try this, I did my comparisons with a GPS, its not that hard to do.....its just time consuming as I didn't have testing equipment, in other word I kept putting it in and taking it out again for quite a long time

Its a 320km/h cluster, I finally found this article about how people convert from km/h to mp/h on there speedo (registration required) some people tweaked the pads on the back by joining/de-joining certain pads, probably what is also referred to as "tabs", the small numbered solder joints. As per my post on the UK thread, I still am not 100% clear on what to do, I think I understand it.

Can you post pics and specs? Just want to compare it to what I have

eeiko321, I was actually reading something I read on the UK forums, quoting "lynchy" He clearly says tabs, maybe he actually meant bridging pins, can you provide more information on them? I found little bits and pieces of information by searching, just random facts like de-soldering #6 and it made a 10km/h difference, but nothing clear that I could safely follow...

Do some reading on the Mobile Electronics Australia website, most recommend not spending much at all on rear fill. $600 get good splits, but it all depends on what your definition is, are you going active setup? Passive setup? How extreme are you with sound quality? Are you sound deadening?

Can moderators close this thread on the fact that it lowers the respect for the entire forum? This is a car enthusiast website, not about pulling a fully sick 1 minute burnout inside your garage... P.S. buy cheaper tyres

If only it didn't involve lots of pain, and been unable to do some things for 9months, then I'd consider it

Oops, yes I should have said R33 Nismo Cluster Speedo Calibration, but I can't edit my first post now. I've *read* on the UK forums that you can adjust it using "tabs" but I cannot work out how to, the person who posted the comment never told anyone how you can adjust it, just that you can... If you know anything about the Nismo cluster adjustment that would be great, I read the article about using the jaycar electronic device but I'd rather not add further electronics there....

What are you trying to do anyway? And why does it involve a high RPM dump and then hitting the brakes? I'm not getting the part about hitting the brakes... Oh, and your not doing this on the street are you? If so, prepare for thread closure!

Out of curiosity, does anyone know if aftermarket 4WD controllers are legal? I have not read a law against them (yet) but I'm sure the police may find one if necessary. Does anyone know a law against adjusting the AWD system in your vehicle using an electronic device?

Hi, So since I've had the car I've always been doing under the limit, its actually pretty annoying to have everyone pass you because your always under the speed limit and unsure if everyone else is speeding or your just driving slow. Anyway, I found this GTR UK article on speedo correction in an R33 by, and an SAU version here. Someone there mentioned that you can adjust an R33 speedo by the "tabs" on the back, that you don't need to buy any electronic adjusters. Does anyone know where these tabs on the back of the speedo are? And what they do? Ie. which one could be used to tweak the speedo to show say, ~6% faster? Regards, Gareth

They have been bled a couple times to try and get it right, its always got a little soft feel at the start, haven't driven a GTST, maybe I'm too fussy Only selling the brembo's if your offering even better brakes for the same price The point above about the stopped making no difference to initial brake feel is interesting, I thought it would do something there....

Sorry thought you were asking *which* fuse not where is the box. As above, take a look with the drivers door open from outside the car, its not that hard to find the fusebox cover...its the same area on most cars I've seen...(see above)

I disagree, there is a master cylinder stopper around that's around ~$80 or so, it looks like it will help with the initial soft pedal feel. My pedal has no issues once you start pressing it but at first its always soft...

Can't help but attempt to translate, I'll just add some imagination to the random fragment of text above... "I had the same problem, with a switch that was put in " " to convert my GTR to RWD, I'm rich so I have 2 GTR's", just kidding about that last part "I had a leaking pipe near the gearbox, probably the transfer case pipe, had to bleed the system in 4 points(? what the?)"

^^^ as per dezz's post, but companies like AAMI make sure you get a letter of the 3rd party advising in writing that they do not have insurance at the time. Once done your car gets fixed, your rating won't be touched, but you have the joy of telling each new potential insurer about your "not at fault accident"

It was too big for the ash tray, but I found somewhere to mount it, for anyone who wants to do a DIY install I wrote up some more instructions in this thread. I've only done a brief test but seems to make a huge difference, need to do more testing to ensure its not just a placebo effect though

Thanks a lot for your help! To summarise, for anyone else attempting the install, its relatively easy, the only little mistake I found was the wires to the switch are listed as "white/brown" on myn it was "grey/brown", quite obvious once everything else is wired up. My installation was on an R33. The "G" sensor, that the main plug connects to is located under the centre console, there are two screws next to the seats on the side of the centre console to remove it. There is also two buttons on the bottom of the handbrake leather cover. And 3 screws which are visible if you have removed the gear surround which you need to unscrew and the entire centre console comes out. Under here are 2 black plugs with a lot of wires, the Ruzic controller look diagram describes the colour of the wire on the *right* (drivers side) of the plug (the top plug). 2 of the wires get stripped, we (Wyseman was assisting ) used the left hand side of the plug to do this, as it was easier, just pay attention to the colour change of each wire, and you will need to remove the outer plastic coating and wrap the controller wire around the wire, solder if you can (I was too nervous about attempting to solder here so used a strong twist and a lot of tape). 1 wire gets cut....and you join as per the instructions. I re-used the stereo power wire, simply spliced (sniffing?) the power wire from there, and the stock stereo ground (which was unused). There is also 1 wire which goes to the centre gauge cluster, to the back of the gauges, the EV+ screw of the torque controller gauge has the wire go to it. I managed to sneak the switch in under the plastic, on the right side of the plastic surrounding the gear lever, facing horizontally... The controller I velcro'ed to the drivers side of the plastic, well under the dash, you can see but not read it while driving, you have to stop and look at it... putting it where the ashtray goes would have been better but I don't want to hack the dash at all. EDIT: with the plastic cover that goes around the serial plugs, be warned that there are 4 same-sized screws. You want the 4 with flat heads, and the tiny nuts, to go through the covers vertically and hold them together. The 4 longer screws with phillips head are used with the brackets with 2 holes, you use the non-threaded hole to secure the bracket to the front of each serial plug (2 per plug). You then connect the plugs and run a shorter screw between the outer threaded hole of the bracket to ensure the serial plug cannot be pulled apart... (I actually used the 4 phillips head screws first, then spent a while trying to work out why the flat headed screws wouldn't fit into the serial plugs properly...) It's not *that* hard to do but its a little tricky, without some friendly assistance I would have had no idea where to find the g-sensor or where to look for the wires. Thanks a lot wyseman! P.S. I considered doing photographs but the last of these controllers are getting sold now so its probably not worth making a proper tutorial...

Re-plugged in the antenna in the rear, I somehow accidentally removed my antenna trigger wire at some point, probably during the amp wiring.... Anyway, I've got half decent reception with the aerial down, it will stay that way Just don't disconnect your aerial in the boot because it makes reception really bad...

Google: R33_fusebox_eng.pdf If its an R33, I think its similar for other models but no guarantee