some_cs_student

I would go the 2.8litre because you know the condition it will be in just built with strong internals, I assume forged pistons et cetera and you have the option of getting a lot more power in the future if you choose to (with less $$$). Unless your very short on money right now Even better, I'll pay you 4K and you can have my R33 RB26 and I'll take the 2.8litre built engine

This seems to be a continual source of confusion, I ran MT90, my box didn't like it, Redline Lightweight shockproof is smoother. If you read carefully, the American redline website does NOT recommend due to some regulations. The Australian website DOES recommend it, and I've seen it written in there books. If you end up buying some, its expensive, try performancelub.com , I don't think heavy shockproof is for any skyline....

GTR parts cost a fortune, fuel on the highway might be 10l/100km on a twin turbo if your lucky. Half-city driving was around 15l/100km from memory All parts are twice the price of a normal car at least, windscreen $250, clutch 1-2K, clutch labor $400. Engine rebuild 6K+ Et cetera, myn is not a daily driver so if something goes wrong its not a big deal if its your second/weekend car

I've read good and bad stories about Rota's, I'm not in a rush so I'm happy to wait for a month and see if I can find some old school rims cheap on yahoo auctions that are lightweight. The Rota's are lightweight/cheap though...

Does anyone know how much difference it will make to suspension setup if I run wider rims? Ie. if my suspension is setup for 17*9 and I run 17*9.5 rims or 17*10 rims, does it make a lot of difference? Obviously the offset will also change with 17*9 or 17*10 rims...

R32 are also 16*8 aren't they? Thanks for the tip on yahoo auctions, might have a look around, it would definitely be the ugly ones getting cheaper, but its a track rim for if its 500-1000 its fine (including postage). I'll start bargain hunting in the next few weeks

Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post, I've been looking for some rims for my R33 GTR for track only use, I currently have 17*9 rims (factory) and would like to run a track rim at some stage with semi-slicks. The plan would be to have one set of factory rims for the street, and another, factory or non-factory for the track. Should I try and get 17*9 to ensure that my suspension setup will not be changed? Or does it not matter between a 17*9 and a 17*9.5? Any recommendations for 17*9 rims? There are the occasional Japanese brand for sale second hand. I'm trying to get something lightweight and as cheap as possible, if they have semi-slicks on them (or existing street tyres) its a bonus I don't need them just yet, just having a look around to see what I can afford... Thanks, Gareth

Since, I can't edit, are we talking about this 2860RS (739548 - 5) which looks identical to a 2860-9 without the GT2560R compressor housing ?

Sure, but do you manufacture from scratch GTR turbo's? Or only high-flow stock turbo's? Do you have any dyno graphs of high-flowed stock turbo's? I'd definitely be looking at ball bearing, but would like more info around response and dyno graphs of any customer who has done it before with an RB26 to check if its right for me. To give you an idea, I'm looking at something that would provide power spool around 3-4KRPM, (close to stock) with plenty of torque, the end power result isn't important but around 300 or more would be nice . In other words the 2860-9 in Garrett terms sounds good to me... At the moment the motor has been rebuilt but possibly with standard internals

Hypergear, do you have anything to suit RB26's either no or in development? I'll be looking for something in the next 6months (I hope)...

No, the fire extinguisher has to match a certain standard for CAMS, check the CAMS website for details, its a fairly common standard...and it MUST have a metal bracket to be ok for CAMS (from memory).

If you know how to improve the instructions I wrote please feel free to contribute, it wasn't a very difficult install but it could have been if I didn't get guidance from someone Yes, pretty sure accelerometer is the G-sensor located under the centre console in the R33/R32.

This one looks like a match for you, http://www.tradetoolsdirect.com/Catalogue/...?CategoryID=257, I personally went for a ~$300 ~21kg aluminium jack, not quite super low profile but lowish (3.25inches approx), just not long enough.

Ok sure, as long as your happy with the price. Just FYI, here in Melbourne the $400 second hand included the labor to remove/fit the second hand transfer case. Rebuilds obviously cost more, good luck.

I have a previous topic that shows an R33 GTR diff pulled apart, I think they're the same but not 100% sure.

The stereo power is right below the gauges (front torque split gauge) which I had to connect to, so I thought that was a logical place to get power from. Good luck

As above the R33 GTR weights 10kg lighter than the R34, but 50kg heavier than an R32, look at a website with real specs, there is no way the R33 added a couple hundred kilograms... R33, 1530kg (non Vspec): http://www.jbskyline.net/R33/GTR/Specs/ R32, 1480kg (non Vspec): http://www.jbskyline.net/R32/GTR/Specs/ Do the math

Who quoted the 2.5K? My previous calls were a lot lower on price for a rebuild, I think it was $1400 or so with the upgraded clutch packs to handle higher power levels...

Interesting, my car effectively stopped moving, both rear and front when the shaft broke, I could release the clutch and rev to 3K RPM, wait 3 seconds and then the car would start moving. In fact it would not stall with clutch out. Anyway, Racepace and Award diff and gearbox are known to rebuild them, but neither are cheap, from memory $800-1000, I went second hand for $400. I saw one around $200 second hand at the time but unknown condition...

They are expensive to replace from what I've heard, are you 100% sure its the clutch pack? Did someone take it apart and have a look or is it a guess? I broke an actual shaft inside my transfer case, I bought a second hand one and kept the parts that were intact

performancelub.com sells that oil, take a look his shipping rates are pretty good...

I have an issue with the whine, mainly around 70-80km/h in 4th gear (clutch in or out). I had some crunching with 1st gear, and sometimes 3rd, went Redline lightweight shockproof (previously MT-90) and its smoother, no crunches except occasionally 1st gear, but the whine remains. It might be a little quieter but I'm not sure, need to give it some more time. I've had the car for 1-2years with whine, but its not driven often, no issues so far...(S3 R33 GTR gearbox)

Satellite radio costs too much, those models are struggling to survive in the USA. I think I'll wait a while, the receivers cost way too much $$$ at the moment, I'm hoping the market will get more saturated in the next 6months and therefore price will drop a lot....

Re-transmitting on FM seems wrong, I thought the main cool thing besides the song titles was the apparently "CD quality" radio, transmitting via FM will lose the quality. I use USB personally but I would like to try the AUX input and hook up a digital receiver to it....when there are some more mature products for it around that I can get cheaply

I've got pics but I haven't bothered posting them up, there seem to be plenty already. Anyone who had trouble with the hanging rock climb should be off to: http://www.ptcfrankston.com To read some newsletters on fitness, and then head over to Nissan Silvia's Fitness diet section, and the PTC forum to read about cardio. lol Great cruise as always Wayne, and extremely well organised.