some_cs_student

Ah yes, he said you can pay by credit card which suits me. The 2nd time I clicked the link I got from the automated email, when I scroll to the bottom of the page it says $30 and there is an add to cart button, which you can progress to a checkout It does mention the NZ$150 price which doesn't match the email but I'll deposit it for now and discuss it with them when they request the rest of the money.

Yes, I got the same automated email saying 3-4 months, I also got 2 non-automated emails from Michael, there director that clearly say 3-4 weeks. So I hope its 3-4 weeks but maybe he meant 3-4 months...

Apparently they should be available in 3-4 weeks, anyone who wants one from the club can email michael (at) jpnz.co.nz So I think they've got enough interest now anyway

Yes, signed up yesterday and got the email, but I have no idea how to deposit the money for them. I've emailed them back to ask how, its probably worth putting in the group buy section, I think it was there a long time ago... Its going to need some advertising to get 150 people paid.

I'm in if they will give me the discounted price

Altec Classic 7500 4 Channel Amplifier (4*100W) On ebay here Each channel provides 100Watts max 2, 3 or 4 channel mode, the amplifier is bridgeable.

GTR's cost a lot to maintain, if you can't afford to buy one be warned that maintenance can be just as expensive. GTST's are cheaper for maintenance. Don't do the traffic light grand prix, take it to the track for some real speed

tirerack.com the American tyre site has a "specs" on many tyres telling you the rim size they will fit on. 235/45/17 should be fine, but you can go wider if you want to....

If its a stockish R33 GTST and your changing often you could go a cheaper oil, Performancelub (see signature) sells quality oil with cheap shipping. I personally use German Castrol 0w30 in a GTR and it was good, I'm also trying Amsoil 10w40 although its a little more expensive.

Hi, I had a discussion with some forum members, most recommended 17x10 but I did the maths, a 255/40/17 tyre is more common in some brands of semi-slick, for example Advan A048. And the other I'd consider is 265/40/17 Either is a good fit for a 17x9.5, the 255 and sometimes 265 is listed with 10" as the upper end, so 9.5 is probably ideal for my purposes in the +18 offset. Rowdyr32, thanks for the info, the spokes look very similar to standard but I'm not quite sure how much brake clearance they have, I think +18 is a safer offset as I get an extra 6mm in the 17x9.5. Thanks for the tips.

I actually won my last paypal refund and got my $$$ back, seller had 100% positive feedback, I even got her phone number but it appeared she had moved and disappeared...good luck with it. Just be careful, sometimes paying extra $$$ to go through someone with a reputation is worth it, I learnt that the hard way when importing

Dynamat isn't the best for cutting out all road noise, you want a sound proofer, there was a big discussion on Mobile Electronics about it, not sure where it got to but a few products were recommended there...

I only just cleared that speed hump at the start, nice meet. Sorry I didn't stick around, decided to go to Sandown but lost some of the members on the way, saw them at Nando's

I have this snippet in my notes if it helps, it was helping my clarify air/oil separator vs catch can:

Thanks, I'm having a look around and most tyres that are 255/40/17 or 265/40/17 are a large difference in price, which would be my main reason for going for the 9.5". However the difference between 9.5 and 10" is about 7mm more sticking out in the 10" and 1mm less clearance, so the 10" is looking more tempting, I *could* run 255/40/17 on a 10" but might be a little stretched.... But I saw this section of this thread and 255 don't look stretched on 10" rims, hmm 10" is looking good.

Its in the members only section of the Vic forum, I think someone posted his mobile already. PM an exec to find out why your membership isn't active on the forum, its probably a mistake...

So I've posted in this thread in the Motorsport section of the forum but didn't quite get a full answer. I'll keep it short, went looking for rims, couldn't find what I liked second hand, so found Enkei RPF1's for <$1700 delivered brand new, they're lightweight which was my main thing. These rims are going to be track only rims for an R33 GTR, it currently runs stock GTR 17x9+30 rims. The plan is to keep it 17inch, I have choices of: 17x9+35 (or +18) 17x9.5+18 (or +38) 17x10+18 From the wheel offset calculator its: 17x9.5 is 6mm more inner clearance and 18mm extra sticking out 17x10 is 1mm less inner clearance and 25mm extra sticking out The plan was to not have to re-tune suspension after switching, and the 255/40/17 tyres are cheaper than 265/40/17 which says 9.5" from my point of view. Any advice? P.S. Nisskid, excellent guide on rims, I tried reporting that your links to the wheel offset calculator are broken but no response, they now need to be "tire" instead of "tyre".

As above, SAU Vic members get a good discount on alarm installations...

Driver dynamics, can you skip to the advanced course from memory....feel free to check with Kevin

I've heard many times that they all share the same fuel, that one refinery creates the fuel and that gets pumped into nearly all the tanks in Melb. Not 100% sure its true.

Sorry I should not have used the word "thick", it breaks down less easily than most 0w30's Its well known on bob is the oil guy, you'll find the FAQ for german castrol here

As an alternative to dot 5.1 you might want the Motul RBF600 its a Dot4.0 or 4.1 or similar rated to 600 degrees fahrenheit, commonly sold at bike stores...(not that cheap though)

Yes I found that calculator later yesterday, 17x9+38 wouldn't work as it would probably touch the brakes, +18 sounds good. Any recommendations regarding size/offset still welcome, I went 17 inch because I can get slightly more profile than an 18"

So your saying you built 2kg muscle / month for 12months? If your happy with your results, congrats, I think I've built 15kg in the past 2-3 years if I'm lucky But unless your on something illegal or your genetically special, that's not physically possible from what I can see, have a read of the truth about bulking Although I'd still say your strength level is much much more important than kg/muscle. Who cares if you've got 30kg muscle, I'd rather be deadlifting 200kg (that's my goal for the year, not looking too good at the moment).

I've been shopping around and looking at weight as I go: http://enkei.com/RacingSeriesSpecs/RPF1.html <-- I'm planning on buying some of these. 17x9 7.21kg, 17x9.5 7.48kg http://www.hyperzero1.com/ <-- CST Hyper Zero 1 weights here Volk SE37 17x9.5 7.52kg