some_cs_student

Hi, I thought there was a sticky on spark plugs but I can't find it, I've searched and found a few threads. Its also an interesting debate in regard to going Copper and replacing every 10K or going Platinum/Iridium. Any advice? Finally, which one should I be using? A BCPR7s/BKR7s ? R33 GTR, standard tubo's, 1 bar boost, not driven too often if that makes a difference Thanks, Gareth EDIT: Also is Repco a good place to buy spark plugs? I noticed that performancelub has fairly cheap Iridium/Platinum plugs

Had a quick look in the workshop/engine manual but couldn't find anything. It talks about the pedal / master cylinder / operating cylinder. There is a section on the transmission but not sure where to look, nothing stood out

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not

+1 but self-control in terms of speed is even more important than how to correct, there's not much chance of correction if your going so fast on a public road. RIP

Incorrect, AFAIK -7's are N1 equivalent, -9 GTSS equivalent. Read the Garett's specs page to confirm.

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info

Haha, I just read the context of the thread I was replying in. Ooops, I probably shouldn't be reading 3 different things at once and replying

Agreed, the only difference is mountainrunner / ruzic engineering one is sooo much smarter than the ebay version. Either way, it was not designed for a drag situation.

1 air intake mod is correct, if you have an aftermarket cooler you cannot have pod, even if its in a box 98mm is a bit ridiculous, I don't believe raising your car by 2mm will make it any safer... Bad luck

A lot of the torque controllers on ebay will not do what he wants...especially the only one I found when searching on ebay

Pretty sure there the same......RB30 is different, but the Rb26 clutch fan is actually the same as another Nissan (one of there 4WD's). I used the shroud off an R34 GTT on an RB26 and it was a fit for the fan...

I do 8-10+ for the more speed work/lighter weight. I lose too much skin on my hands doing high reps on heavy weights so I vary between 1 and 4 on the heavier weights, and I sometimes have to put the bar down in-between the lifts.

Pro-isolation workouts are standard at a commercial gym, and the increasing use of isolation equipment is a little worrying Strength and looks are intertwined in general, although it all depends on your perspective, and what you consider a "good" look, it also depends how fast you want to get the look, compound training in general is a faster way to build-up but I've seen a few big looking guys at the gym...they don't actually bench properly (1/2 way bench at most) but they do look big depending on your definition, and if that's their aim... That said, I'm on the strength / compound training is extremely important side of the argument and I'll keep most of my opinion out of here...

He may be referring to the small fan that sits in front of the radiator near the horn. I cannot recall when it activates...

A little random but does it go away after a while? I had a similar issue in the Ford and its actually something weird that someone put in the washer bottle that goes off, after using the washer on the windscreen a terrible smell comes through the vents of the car for ~5-10minutes then goes away.

+1 excellent email service

Why would a 40" profile be too small for a 9.5" wide rim? And what brand of semi-slick is this....you might be able to check tire rack or similar: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?mak...tirePageLocQty= With a A048 235/45 is designed for a 9" rim at most, a 235/40 might make it on a 9.5" but I think you'd want to go 245 or 255. I'm aiming for 255-40-17 in a non-semi slick.

Chassis manual 328 pages. Engine manual one 262 pages, no. 2 is a little smaller. Chassis manual is Clutch Manual Trans Auto trans "Propeller" shaft and final drive Drive shaft Front Axle & Front Suspension Rear Axle & Rear Suspension Brake System Steering System Body exterior Body interior Engine Electrical System Body Electrical System Auto speed Control Device Electronic Diagrams I've got a few for a group buy and will be selling one for around $110 (prefer pick up in Vic though).

Maybe find a good tuner and speak to them about your goals? Or search, plenty of threads in forced induction and other sections of the forum on this

Tried DT panels in Springvale?

I hope your car is ok.... You should at least get to cross-examine the thief on how they stole it

What tyre pressure did you end up running? I've read somewhere here that people are running 38-40 psi (hot) in the ku36's but not sure of the exact size of the tyre they were referring to...what are you running?

+1 You might want to consider -9's (similar to HKS GTSS) if you want to raise your power target about that...

+1. Wrong oil can make the diff shudder/tighter...

Hmm, not sure if its different to R33's but what's this disconnect the wire? Are you following the tutorial in the tutorial's section? I undid the bleed nipple, turned on the ignition, the pump would start, then turn it off after a few seconds, then repeat, that way the pump didn't get too hot...