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some_cs_student

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  1. There are different kinds of semi-slicks, there are the ultra high performance / street/track semi-slicks (not R compound) for example Khumo KU36 and Federal 595RSR. And then there are R-compound semi-slicks which are mostly road legal too assuming they have appropriate levels of depth Maybe you could ask a more specific question?
  2. If anyone else is looking Option1Garage has the Federal range on special, so the price difference between the KU36 and the 595RSR isn't so big anymore
  3. Rolling diameter must remain the same for the computer to not be confused. Have a look at the tyre manufacturers websites, for example most semi slicks in 255/40/17 are for 8-10" tyres, but for the ones I just bought there 8-9" only. I think you could do 265/40/17 if you really want to I'm not so sure about 275/40/17...(or why you would want to ).
  4. First question is did your car come with an airbag? If so then you cannot replace the steering wheel with one unless it has an airbag... I can't quite recall what the smallest size is, I removed my 350mm because of not having an airbag.
  5. Google's translation is also pretty good
  6. I went with BCPR6ES with 0.8, it had some kind of Platinum Racing plugs in there with a "7" heat range which I thought was interesting...(from Japan) I have a thread with a spark plug discussion for a GTR here
  7. KU36's are not race compound semi-slicks, they are street track tyres, so I would assume they wouldn't be as soft as semi-slicks are. I believe the 595RSR is a similar story. It also explains the price difference compared to true race compound semi-slicks P.S. I'm planning to buy KU36's in the next month or two but haven't made the purchase yet, I will be avoiding wet weather driving with them. Some people say they aren't too bad but I'd be very cautious in the wet...
  8. I've had NPC rebuild a pre-supercopper Nismo clutch, its not the best clutch so next time I might buy an NPC twin
  9. Running a volunteer club is challenging, I co-founded a 2nd generation of a new club in University only to watch the club fail the very next year due to lack of volunteers. Volunteers are everything to a voluntary club, there's no one paid to organise all the events or anything, so feel free to volunteer That said, I'm not available to help at the moment due to certain issues, however I'm also not complaining about the clubs lack of events either, although I would love to see more cruises / social meets
  10. Fair call , I only visit that section occasionally
  11. Errr, why not just refer to the wheel weights sticky ?
  12. Oh, forgot that series 3 have a lower front lip which is plastic and super-expensive. Rare to see them on the car without scratches
  13. Steering wheel has red stitching, only 1 rear reverse light, 1 is a fog light, there is a switch for this in the car
  14. I use the Pulsar / Z442 filter because I have an oil cooler, the sandwich plate prevents the Z143A from fitting there...
  15. Well....yes, but the platinum's were from Japan when the car was imported, no idea how long they were in there. I don't do many km's so even 10K is quite a long time
  16. PM sent Where was everyone during my group buy where I got them even cheaper than this ?
  17. Hmm, there windscreens are super expensive, I hope there repairs are more reasonably priced. I used Jim's windscreens last time and that was the only place that gave a reasonable price for a new windscreen, not sure if they do repairs though...
  18. Hi, I can post it, but I work long hours (~9:30 - 7PM) and getting to the post office is difficult. Courier would be better, but for that price you might be able to buy off JPNZ directly JPNZ directly here
  19. Hi, I got a few manuals through a group buy and have one leftover. Chassis manual 328 pages. Engine manual one 262 pages, no. 2 is a little smaller. Chassis manual is Clutch Manual Trans Auto trans "Propeller" shaft and final drive Drive shaft Front Axle & Front Suspension Rear Axle & Rear Suspension Brake System Steering System Body exterior Body interior Engine Electrical System Body Electrical System Auto speed Control Device Electronic Diagrams Bought through JPNZ Victoria only please as I want this picked up from the South Eastern suburbs....(or on an official cruise or similar). Thanks, Gareth
  20. He had some kind of racing plug in there: http://www.ninjapower.co.uk/product_info.p...-ngk-r67018-x-1 an NGK: R6701-8 Anyway, I've put the BCPR7ES in now, it was a little challenging but its done now, thanks for the advice everyone.
  21. Sometimes you will need to replace your old analog antenna with a better one for digital, we have 2 antennas, and had to replace 1 to get reception working properly. The connectors used are important too. But you can still get away with an internal antenna, I had rabbit ears ($15) working, they just looked a bit ridiculous been masking taped next to the window (the only place it could get good reception) and they were hard to tune.
  22. I read the general maintenance section, a quick check of the tutorials, and a search which brought up lots of debates about copper vs iridium. Didn't think of the forced induction sticky Besides you overrate search, I was searching for "spark plug" or similar, I didn't know what terms would bring back something useful I'll just use BCPR7ES (-8 gap) then...thanks for the help (or 6ES if I can't get them). Thanks everyone!
  23. I'm only 250rwkw so I assume the bcpr6 might be a better choice. I'm unsure how to re-gap spark plugs so would prefer to buy the right size if possible
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