some_cs_student

I have a Ruzic engineering (mountainrunner) one installed, I highly recommend, it only works on corners. In other words no difference for straight-line purposes, which is why I asked about purpose. There is a controller for drag-only, but the majority are for modifying how much front wheel torque during corners. I read about the two you mentioned but didn't find much info about them..... Do you have an R32 GTR or newer?

What's your aim with the aftermarket controller?

We'll actually, if they injure/kill someone else that's also there fault, and if they do it on a cruise it becomes a club issue...

If its just something like the lip DT Panels might be able to do it cheap....depends on what your aiming for exactly. My drive-way is fairly steep, 3 turns and if I get the angle wrong it scrapes and the fiberglass cracks If you can deal with it feel free to touch it up yourself, and if you want a really high quality job take it to MiColour or a similar paintshop, but expect to pay $$$

Are you talking about the championship blue (I think that's what they called it) ? That's a different colour again....

I think your misinterpreting Dagz's poorly constructed previous post, it actually says I have Garrett -5's which are better than stock turbo's. I would assume better = more power in this case (and non-ceramic exhaust wheels ) Personally I want 2860-9's at some point in this year but I'm not so interested in drag times, more in street/track response where I drive on the street more often than the track

Great cruise, I thoroughly enjoyed it, stage 2 was great. Apologies for getting a little angry over a certain unnamed incident on Sunday...

When doing heavy deadlifts I use lifting chalk, use some of that and you won't lose grip! lol

This probably doesn't help, but I'd just point out that series 2 and series 3 dash are identical, the steering wheel only has different stitching on it in series 3, oh, there is a light switch under the dash (LHS under steering wheel) for the fog light switch on the rear in a series 3....but its tucked away They're are a lot more series 2 owners than series 3...

Next time I'm sending you to a website called LMGTY http://www.dtpanels.com.au/contact.html

I pay $200 for the bar, and $200 for the lip for re-fiberglass / respray work at DT panels, prices vary of course depending on your front bar. I do know that the front lip takes 10+mins to remove with a couple of people doing it

Sticky in the Victoria section of the forum may help

Once you are a member on the forums its under the Vic members area...

You could also try http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewTyres.htm KU36's are just out of your price range if you wanted something that's pretty good, maybe KU31? Or the Federal 595 SS if its still on special, they were very cheap 1-2 weeks ago. EDIT: it was 40% or so off a week or two ago but the current prices on 595 SS are cheap 265/35/18 $201.00 .... just out of your price range. It cost about $80 to get the tyres via courier from Queensland to Melb (I think) I got 255/40/17 in Federal 595RSR's, a high end (non R compound) motor sport tyre, excellent dry weather, not good for wet weather. And I got it for under $300 each including postage recently, check with Option1 if the special is still on, the special was all Federal tyres and 595SS was a lot cheaper than the RSR.

Are you a new owner? In that case read a little about the ATTESA / 4WD system, it likes even rolling diameter on all 4 wheels or it gets confused and causes issues with the 4WD system. You don't have to have the time size but same rolling diameter, personally I just use the same size all round...

3K for an exhaust? I know Racepace does excellent work but I wouldn't pay that much for an exhaust, I'll look into Sabbadin automotive at some point when I consider getting a new exhaust, I'm happy with my current one and its quiet enough for now Thanks for the info and apologies for hijacking the thread.

Still interested in how much a Racepace exhaust costs vs other custom made exhausts

Vu, if you read the second post I said I'm waiting on you. My first post was when I was tired & grumpy, unfortunately you cannot edit posts after ~30mins, so I can't change that one. Sorry I'll bring the car round when I can, I assume you / the team will not be working this weekend due to Easter?

Option1garage still has a special on the Federal's, 595RSR are similar to KU36 pricing at the moment

Will discuss with DT next week, the owner was N/A this weekend so they said they are unsure if the problem is due to the fiberglass touching something or there paintwork, 90% sure its a paintwork issue but I'll find out. Either way its pretty small they covered most of the crack...

Agreed, I think I'll drop back there and ask if they are willing to fix up the issue or not, if not would posting pics be against SAU rules? I'm not quite sure if posting pics of what my current lower lip looks like is "slandering" or not...

I'm not 100% happy with my last job, yes they fixed the crack, but they sprayed over it, the paint has gone and I can see the crack that they were paid to fix now...I haven't been back there to ask them about this one.

Too late, I've bought 17x9.5 , prices new are similar between 17/18" I didn't expect semi-slicks to be cheaper in 18" and they aren't brand new.... Thanks anyway

I bought from Japan about 4months ago and regret it now as its a few hundred cheaper now, maybe have a look at the VividRacing website?

Have you ever done an advanced driving course? ABS is a great safety invention, yes the driver should have as much control as possible, and it might be dangerous if a driver goes from an ABS car to a non-ABS car without realising it. However, in wet weather, you have no chance against of doing better than any decent ABS system.