some_cs_student

I just got my track rims, so I'm definitely considering Ku36's... 255/40/17 is only $227/tyre at the moment on option1garage. Sounds like a cheaper option than doing semi-slicks and attempting to change them at the track Still curious as to who else has used them on the track, at this stage semi's are looking out of my price range for quite a while...either way, anything is better than the Dunlop LeMan's

Interested in a quote for something to suit 17 / 9.5", I think a 255/40/17 would be perfect, I PM'ed but your inbox is full Considering both semi-slick and street/track tyres as I'm only doing light-moderate track work.

I don't think I grabbed a pic of the dyno tune, it wasn't a super-late response curve, it looked like it had a lot of power throughout the entire curve which is very impressive at those power levels.

Great venue and the concerns regarding having the gates open all the time don't make sense. But could we attempt to negotiate a later time? I mean if it was 10-11AM or 11-12PM entry then that would be soooo much easier

I believe I spoke to the owner with a few others, he didn't sound like he got to drive it often enough but I didn't think he was planning to sell it You should see his dyno sheet / engine bay, incredibly nice.

Would that be this one? http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_743347_3.htm Linked from here http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bochargers.html ?

If your engine is built, and your engine builder recommends something, I'd go with him as well I never said BITOG was perfect, its a community forum not an experts forum. Re the Ford 6, I'm running 15w40 at the moment in a 1996 Ford Engine, I'm considering Penrite 15w50, the other choices were 10w60 (or 70 or something with really big numbers). Just looking for a cheap fully or at least semi-synthetic for the Ford as some of the cheaper oil gets burnt up pretty quickly.

I think its an Australian point of view to tend towards thicker oils, I was reading the US-based bob-is-the-oil-guy to determine what oil is preferred in an old Ford 4litre, I kept finding that they tend to use 0w30 or 10w40 in there old Holden V8's where Australian would use a much thicker oil. And don't try to argue about temperature difference, it does get hot in the part of the US we were discussing Anyway, the only real way to do this is UOA which costs money, but I'm of the opinion that 10w60 is too thick and has too many additives for our RB26's in my humble opinion unless your doing track work really often. But run a UOA to confirm

Oh, you've bought a standard router *and* a separate modem. What most people do is buy an ADSL router OR a cable modem router. I bought a Billion 7300G from MSY which does ASDL2, wireless and 4 port routing. I can't think of an easy way to do router + modem unless you connect your modem to the computer, your computer to the router, and allow other computers to connect through that modem when the computer is running....

I'd add to that list, if your going through ebay or similar use paypal if possible. PayPal offers protection, for example I bought a $120 amplifier, sent the money, no item received, it took 2 weeks but I got a full refund of my money. Its not a perfect system but they do find in favor of the buyer 90% of the time. Although all of birds tips sound good to me

I've got water temp there, which is great to check if the water is getting too hot (which has only happened once), but oil pressure is more important (which would indicate an engine / oil issue if it was too low)....

Just did a quick search, and it looks like parking in the area is expensive, especially if you don't make it! lol Does anyone know if there is cheap parking on weekends there? I can't imagine making it by 10AM...

Are you referring to the Xenon headlights? The genuine ones do cost serious $$$

Hmm, what exactly is a heat shield? Are we talking about something custom designed for the car?

For a not-so-perfect job it looks great

We're on! Please see: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ua-t295046.html Or my sig

-9's are closer to HKS GTSS turbo's, -5's are often run with 300-330rwkw before the engine gets rebuilt. -9's make sense unless you want to have more than ~330rwkw power (oh, and you will never get the response of a -9) later...

I'm sure that wasn't there a week ago And I re-checked and I can fit into a small or medium in that Adelaide group buy, as long as I buy the non-zipped version

I think there is a good wikipedia article that explains the "tractive force" concept, it's here if you want to read it.

Mine are actually due in about 1-2 weeks for the RPF1's, I bought when the yen was slightly low so paid over $1600. The yen went up to 79yen per Aussie dollar a week later RPF1's are extremely light.

Its where the reverse light is on the S1/S2 R33's, its just slightly orange...and bright when you turn it on

PM sent - interested. I would have seen this earlier if it was in the group buy section

Interesting, not quite sure which models those turbo's will apply to above It would be great if they bought out some new GTR turbos before I get around to buying them (which is going to take forever, lol)

S3 looks the same excluding the rear right hand reverse light is a light orange, its actually a fog light with a switch under the dash. Internally the trim is red coloured on the streeing wheel and seats. Try carpoint/carsales that's how I used to compare different models because there were enough examples

I like the jumpers in the group buy, unfortunately they don't have XS . I've PM'ed Bec to ask her if there the same style...