some_cs_student

Adjustable cam gears + Power FC (or other aftermarket ECU) + good tune does make a large difference in spool time, I wouldn't say 1500 RPM but its a noticeable difference.

Also checkout NPC clutches, they make custom as well, not sure what the price is. You can also get a second hand (twin plate for example) clutch and get it rebuilt fairly cheaply...

I'm using German Castrol 0w30, considering going 10w40 next time and a different brand but this is fairly cheap Car sits around 70 to 85 degrees (on a hotter day with some spirited driving) but does have a decent cooling system.

Xforce "racing" cats are also metal cores, there are a few forum sellers that do sell quality cat's. If its $180, it has to be ceramic core, and if its not a known brand, why buy it? There are known brands fairly cheap if that is a ceramic core...

I'll start by saying I completely disagree with the first poster who answered questions, so I'm going to re-answer. EDIT: just saw your image attachment, nice Parking lane? The car parking spots will end before the intersection allowing you to move to the left. Yes, there is a break in the bicycle line before the intersection where you move in before you turn left. On the parking lane picture, there is a line showing where the parking lane ends, you follow the curve when turning. On the bicycle lane example, there is a break from where you can start pulling to the left (30m probably) to perform your left turn, in your picture example there is a car already doing this). You certainly don't stay where you are and then suddenly turn left across the bicycle lane, you might kill a cyclist No, you merge into your chosen lane, my driving instructor taught me this, I got told off for indicating, what are you indicating? Your not changing lanes unless you wait until the divided lines appear next to you, if you do then you indicate as per normal. Merging does not strictly require indication, it is sometimes done for courtesy. I'd say no. Since you are the only right turning lane, you have a choice of the lanes on the road you are turning into. Good luck Oh, got my license 6 years ago for the comparison

I hope this doesn't blow up in there faces, if they do screw up the level of dept we will be in is massive. So I hope the recession ends soon otherwise its not looking good. Lol, a promise by a politician, what happens if they lie? Well people might lose a little faith in them, and don't forget we could always change parties Not too happy with the stimulus package, the US mentioned a lot of tax cuts, I would have preferred a focus on small business and Inf. Oh, and feel free to pour some money into the share market, I own a few stocks that are a little low at the moment. /end rant The Australian has a good article on this but I'm sure everyone has read enough on the subject The Treasury website has the old version as well (before the amendments): http://www.treasurer.gov.au/DisplayDocs.as...=&DocType=0

True, thanks for the info. Yes avoiding the supercheap auto jacks for now, I'm trying to buy quality. Its for personal use, not a workshop, I only visit the track every 6months if I have the $$$ so I'm not too worried about weight (at the moment). The second jack I mentioned can only support 1000kg, its 19.5kg and a little shorter than the first jack, its 74cm vs the 85cm. As long as I can jack the car up and the jack will last a long time I'm happy Also the price is very reasonable for both of them...

Hmmm, I was looking at this Omega jack was well on http://www.tradetools.com.au/Catalogue/Pro...tCode=GJLUQ1500 GJLUQ1500 jack, 63mm at lowest point but it's not super long. Its cheaper than anything else I've found so far ($275 + postage to Vic) and the car is approx 13cm off the ground on the side skirts, do you think this could get to the cross member? Or, is there anything better under $400? UPDATE: Also found the "J041", from https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=J041# , its $229 incl GST, only 90mm off the ground but looks like its long 84cm and 51kg, they make a racing version https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=J042 but its shorter... Note: I do know this thread is ancient but it still seems relevant.

Have you got a 4WD alignment done recently? Its worth a try and may improve things quite a bit.... I only had serious understeer issues when the transfer case was dying, the GTR does still understeer but not that easily. The diff does lockup as you described depending on how cold it is.

The 2F2F had the R34 GTR with the FWD disconnected, it actually had a (claimed) 13second quarter mile time due to this, they have the car on display at there studios in LA. Not surprised that the new one also has the front wheel drive disconnected

I'd be interested in a dyno sheet after tuning...I'm interested in the hypergear turbo's but I want twin's

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/ I believe it was <$700 , Jim Berry is also a contact in the sticky section

You'll only be able to afford the Aus built RB30 R31's, not a turbo model if you've only got 2K. Diff whine is common in the R31's not a major issue but common, check for rust and the tyres been used. The R31 is fine in dry weather, just not the safest in wet weather unless you've got good tyres. The silhouette model is the top of the range manual but has a premium on it...it also had LSD from memory.

NPC clutches rebuilt mine at a decent price (had to pay for postage but it was worth it). Same car, and pre-supper copper mix twin plate, I think we may even have the same clutch

I assume your asking for temp? If you have a Power FC + commander you can compare to the stock one. Usually around 70-80degrees which is under halfway on the factory gauge @70degrees celcius... A lot of other people run 80-90 degrees which is probably half way or past half way on the standard gauge, which I hardly ever look at so I'm just guessing here

Victoria has its own section of the forum, also look at signing up as a member, plenty of events on and easy access to CAMS membership.

Fuel on Nepean Hwy/North Road BP ultimate with no issues last night, I think its starting to get back into stock. Apparently nearly all 98 is coming from the Mobil refinery, not including Shell Optimax

First question, no, that's wrong. Second question, there are threads on this, what exhaust system are your running? And are you running a decent cat converter? Yes, people often go the ECU + more boost + exhaust system and either a pod filter or airbox panel filter upgrade + good tune and get a nice gain

Meh, the argument is that this dyno reading was higher than what the most likely power is in real life. Not many dyno's get tuned very often to make sure they read accurately... Anyway, let's get back to the subject

Well, yes, OR they could just do a better job of the same things They're adjusting things, they can choose how much do adjust each part, its quite complex if you have camber/caster adjusters, and quality does vary a lot. I've used traction tyres before, they are not cheap but very thorough and I'd recommend them...

An interesting way to get some extra business....I got the same email forwarded through work and friends

I haven't heard of a section of contract law that allows a quick termination without 4 weeks notice OR some kind of appropriate payout Nice work with the letter of resignation, I've lost a team member without knowing it (I found out from Facebook that he was given 4 weeks notice or the option of unpaid leave!) And there's rumors that the company may be cutting a lot more jobs...

Not cutting the fan blades might make a small difference too The most common cause is radiator blockage, give it a good flush, there are a few threads with lists of potential issues (eg. water pump fins corrosion and others).

The stock fuel gauge is inaccurate, fill it full and see if it moves I've had it drop close to 1/4 and then could only put 25litres of fuel into it to make it full...

Using google for "r200 GTR diff" I found some results and this site: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/243052 advises the casing's are different All I found was "R200" diff and that its the shortnose version...