some_cs_student

djr81, did your issue end up been the front diff or the transfer case itself? I'm hoping RacePace or Award will have the parts if required, I could always look at going second hand as well but not sure how common transfer cases are... If it was transfer case, where your symptoms similar? Racepace have driven my car before and said no issues, so Ben believes its just a harsh clutch engagement, the transfer case is silent at higher revs only low revs. kspots08, RacePace is located in BaysWater try searching, there phone number is on the forums, there email on the web.

Yes, they were not happy with having the car sit around for a week or more, and I understand that because they do not have as much space as RE Customs has. I wasn't saying Racepace is a bad workshop because they didn't want my car around there for a week

I always share with SAU members, I wasn't really been serious about closing the thread, and even if it did get closed, it doesn't get deleted Anyway, spoke to Racepace and they advised that its very unlikely that the transfer case is actually broken, its more likely to be that I may have a solid centre clutch that's very harsh. RE Customs is going to take it apart and have a look at it first, the clutch has a little bit left on it but not much. The clutch itself actually ended up been an older pull type Nismo clutch (twin plate) a model before the super copper mix. The symptoms were that the car was slipping / free revving on take off and anything below 3K RPM in a high gear like 4th made grinding sounds (when driving). The car got worse when I got it back from the panel beaters (don't think it was there fault), and the clutch is nearly silent now, its always been very noisy. But I can release the clutch and the car will creep slightly or not at all, no stalling, if I rev to 3-4K RPM and wait nearly a second, the car make's a funny sound and starts driving, and slipping quite a bit less at higher revs. Since I've had the car its been very difficult to take off at low revs, so when the clutch was good, the car prefers closer to 3K and release the clutch quickly, any attempt to do something below this makes grinding sounds and makes the front of the car feel like its vibrating a bit. Its obviously very difficult to park. But I thought those noises were normal for a twin plate clutch. When the clutch is in there is no noise, and when the clutch was good a launch around 3K RPM would bog the car down a little but no noise from the clutch itself, completely silent then....

Racepace is my usual workshop and tuner, however they were not happy with my clutch rebuild because the car would be sitting around for a week. RE Customs were nice enough to allow my car to stay around while the clutch was rebuilt. Oh, feel free to close the thread, I have the info I need

Thanks, I saw a price of $2400 for some kind of full rebuild and that scared me! I'd rather go second hand as I'm not running huge power (250RWKW). I'll give Ben a call tomorrow, didn't know they did transfer cases, hopefully this won't cost too much to fix

I have more questions, as always In regard to ethanol and rubber corrosion, have you replaced the rubber hoses in your skyline (I assume ther are some)? How hard is this? Is the corrosion a concern? And will the ethanol have any side-effects on the engine? I mean the E85 blend itself...

Hey, Just wondering, my transfer case has been making some funny noises and the RE Customs is going to remove it for me, unfortunately it wasn't just the clutch that is worn Anyway, does anyone know a transfer case specialist or a person who has rebuilt them before in Vic? Any idea how much it will cost? (roughly, not sure whats wrong with it yet). Regards, Gareth EDIT: Found an old post by DirtGarage saying Terry from Award Diff and Gearbox is a good place but its not in Vic, courier might cost a bit

Your new phone will likely have sync software so transferring from the PC to new phone should be simple once you've got it on the PC

Its hard to tell when your joking online, I can't detect sarcasm in text. Agreed on the other points, if you find anyone with the knowledge and time to break it down to simple to understand language that would be great We should possibly start a thread on what oils people use and what temp. there cars see, but it will probably end up worse than this thread everyone will be running a different setup...not sure if its worth starting a new thread on. Yes this thread is pretty messy now, but I don't know if anyone wants to volunteer to go through it and delete the junk out of it, there's never a definite opinion on what to use only a large list of recommendations and that's the problem on a public forum, its not a group of experts its public opinion.

Lol, I do not recommend you ever put a screw driver there to see if it will "unlock" the diff. I have a standard R33 GTR diff and it locks as above, both wheels turn at once not one at a time. I had my diff loosened due to this, my car used to do it and it still does a little, the housing of my diff was machined to loosen the preload to prevent this, it used to make a loud clunking sound on tight corners. You may have a diff that someone has shimmed tighter so it locks more, an aftermarket centre in your diff, OR someone welded the diff inside (as per previous posts). A diff specialist can probably help you reduce the preload a little to prevent the bad noise, the diff probably has a lot of preload, which is fine for a track, not so good on the street. OR someone has welded it...

We'll besides the brake thread sticky I'd recommend: QFM A1RM pads, with Motul RBF600 (dot 4.1, 600 degree Fahrenheit fluid), also remember to get your rotors machined before putting them in and bed them in well otherwise you will have squealing issues. You will get quite a bit of brake dust Be warned that not all brake fluids are compatible with each other so its probably best to flush the old fluid out when you switch to RBF600 or another brand. JetPilot<can't remember the full name> sells the QFM pads on this forum.

Sounds good, but I'm just curious if you knew your fuel consumption on the 98 octane you use, and the E85. I know E85 will be cheaper but I'm just curious how quickly the car will go through fuel...obviously been a modified car it will be difficult to compare unless you have your previous usage on the 98 octane fuel you were using and even then its not accurate but I'm curious

But, does this apply to track only? And is it the same if you have an oil catch can? Wouldn't the extra oil just go into an oil catch can? (sorry, my mechanical knowledge is not the best)

Donkey, Search for the ATTESA fault codes / diagnosis threads, they often have the info to help with the ATTESA system. Dearlove, are you running the same profile tyres and rims all round?

That looks like very minor surface rust (I think, not an expert). I've used rust converter but that's for serious rust issues. You can use some anti-rust "etch" (?) primer, either way you can get any rust primers before you paint it again. As long as you make an effort to remove the excess rust and re-paint you should be fine. Look for articles on "surface rust" on this forum or others.

Also see the sticky on buying a skyline, it has info on this. I think it may be in this section of the forum.

Thanks for the explanation TK, makes more sense now

So, just commenting on the above post, the -9's are more responsive than a -7 but less overall power? Any idea how much power is normal for a -9?

There's not much load on the engine so, you will get very little spooling as per previous posts. Watch your boost gauge if you have one....if doesn't exactly do much in neutral

All your questions have been answered before many times on this forum, use the search button. Its difficult to sell, this may make the price lower, it may be a bad car (test it). 50K for 6-8 years, 6.5-8K / year. Do you think that's realistic?

Try PSI parts on these forums

Clutch prices vary, try searching the forum, there's plenty of different clutches from sellers depending on your budget and power level. There are also places like NPC clutches and there's a group buy in the forum on clutches, start reading!

As above, I'm using a metal Xforce and no issues, I'm not running *huge* power but no issues with the quality of the cat itself

Good luck It's safe to leave it there and have a go, but for track days the recommendation is to remove it, it makes the car a little less predictable especially when you lose the rear. Its not expensive to remove but you should get a wheel alignment after removing it.

FYI, I'm not an expert but I do have an aftermarket cat without temp sensor. If you have an aftermarket cat you can get a bung (?) for the sensor to go in and put that on the cat, I chose not to and simply put the sensor somewhere near the cat, as it doesn't really do much anyway. I believe the temp sensor relates to detecting a failed cat, if it reaches a certain temperature it flashes a warning light, possibly the engine warning light. Its not an o2 sensor, otherwise I would probably have bad fuel economy now, my fuel economy is excellent. I find that the temperature sensor isn't exactly *needed* for anything to work.