some_cs_student

As above, M&M's articles are excellent, much better than some of the other fitness articles I've read online.

The HICAS, I don't think is the best example, its known to cause issues so most people are better off removing it Search, I do that all the time, if its been covered several times well, and people can't do any research, then they shouldn't be posting. Not everyone has *all* the answers but they may well know they have seen the answer on the forum before and you just haven't searched for it.

Well it looks like it was one of the shafts inside the transfer case making a strange noise so it looks like it was damaged and that was slipping rather than the clutch. I bought a second-hand one off RE Customs for $400, I was offered one close to $200 but the condition was not completely known, where RE Customs had taken it off a working car. So hopefully the car will be back soon

As above, per Ash's post, that's been proven several times Some results were a 1KW difference. Could the lower than normal power figure be because of maxxing out the AFM's or something else that is been maxxed out?

Hmm, I thought I read something huge like 5K somewhere on a website but I can't find it again, but it probably wasn't the radar detector as 5K is really damn high. You do know a large section of Vic police have had laser versions for a long time right ? Good luck finding the info

So statutory (spelling?) write off? Or insurance (repairable) write off? You can have a few panels damaged and be written off by the insurance company, if its not statutory then you can repair it and put the car back on the road. But as above, the insurance company found it too expensive to repair so decided to write it off...

Hmm, there some articles on here about what happens when you try to brake at high speed without a rear wing, I can't remember the speed but it was 120 or above and the brakes didn't work so well without some downforce on the rear. Hopefully someone who knows a bit more can advise, but why remove it? You get a little bit more rear vision view but it's there for a reason, mainly when your on a track

An interesting idea, but I wouldn't make 1SAU = $100, more like 1SAU = $50 or less, it can't be worth more in parts than a mechanic would have charged... Also, I strongly doubt Australia will hit a recession, I'm not seeing our banks folding, or massive rescue packages promised by our government, so I have to think Australia as an economy will be relatively safe, but not immune to what the rest of the world is doing. So I think your panicking for no reason personally

Also checkout NPC clutches, I should have my rebuilt clutch back from them this weekend. I've heard there twin's are very good but expensive, ~2300, not so sure about the singles, haven't heard that much about them, there was a group buy on them on this forum not long ago....

I believe I had read they are illegal and I found this: According to: http://www.radarlaser.com.au/lawsrdau.htm I would cross-reference it though to confirm its correct.

You'd probably get an active/viscous LSD thrown in when Vspec See the many previous threads on this or wikipedia or many other websites.

Just FYI for anyone reading, the clutch actually ended up been a Nismo twin-plate, the model before the super coppermix. And the transfer case was the problem with the slipping, there was nearly 2mm left on the clutch itself. The clutch is getting rebuilt and I've been offered a transfer case (cheap) and one from the workshop, I've gone with the one from the workshop because I know its in good working condition

Just FYI for anyone reading, the clutch actually ended up been a Nismo twin-plate, the model before the super coppermix. And the transfer case was the problem with the slipping, there was nearly 2mm left on the clutch itself. The clutch is getting rebuilt and I've been offered a transfer case (cheap) and one from the workshop, I've gone with the one from the workshop because I know its in good working condition

Power loss is negligible, like 1-2KW, I don't mind that kind of loss If there were serious cooling advantages and I start having overheating issues again I'd consider it then. I would like to see the before/after on people who have done track days with clutch and then thermo fans, or some higher powered cars running thermo's...(in a separate thread).

http://www.performancelub.com/ has been recommended in the oil thread for a long time Great prices, great service and reasonable postage charges

Furthermore please post up your results in the turbo upgrade thread so it won't get lost when I get around to upgrading my turbo's in 6-12months time

Nimmo, if you do use thermo's I'd like to see a post of the results afterward

Do the cam gears and Power FC and tune, and increase boost to close to 1 bar and you should get 240-260 RWKW more or less for an R33 GTR, I assume R34's are similar. You'll get much more info if you use the search button

Once you've given the paint some curing time give it a good polish, part of my side-skirt didn't look perfect after I got it back from DT. I waiting after curing and washed it and it came up perfect, it was just a tiny bit of dust on it Looks great now.

When I did research on this I found that the people who went down the electric fan switched back to clutch fans and found the clutch fans were better. It's still debatable and personally I've never tried the electronic fan, what may be making a difference is the fan shroud, it makes quite a difference to the cooling. Also, you can buy the clutch fan new, if you search my previous threads they advise which one I got for the RB26, I think its the same as the one you want....(think! ). Not cheap though, its a few hundred from memory.

I watched most of the episode and its a big improvement

BlitzR33 and others, are you also adding your info to the RB26 aftermarket turbo sticky? That keeps a summary of mods/power levels of RB26's in this section of the forum

See the other thread in this section of the forum on Exedy twin plates, apparently they are quite harsh on take-up.

Agreed on above, my import and compliance time was around 7or 8months approx. A friend's mechanic has predicted for every hour on the road it will spend 1/2hour getting fixed, I'm working on proving him wrong after I get my clutch rebuilt and maybe the transfer case, lol.

Considering the current strength of the Aussie dollar against the yen (quite bad at the moment), looking locally makes sense, just make sure you get the car mechanically checked otherwise it may have mechanical problems you will find out about later.