some_cs_student

R33 GTR rims are said to be 9.5kg (just the rim of course). 17*9

(00)SKYLINE(00) -- V-spec vs GTR, I read his post and not the info. on him on the LHS menu Point taken though. About the same power and similar mods for my R33 non-V-spec but stock airbox, 3inch HKS exhaust (I think its 3inch it gets thicker than 3inch at some points), and 14.7PSI boost (1 bar). Oh and I have adjustable cam gears... Not much induction noise though, not that I care about that Oh, yes disconnecting front-drive shaft is normal if the mechanic doesn't have an AWD dyno.

I remember having it as a hire car for 2 days and I did a lot of driving in it, I didn't like it much, I found the driving position not that comfortable, the manual gearbox was *ok*, but not good. Didn't like the seats either, I'd much prefer a mid 90's pulsar personally

Looks quite different to me, here are the dismantling instructions: http://www.uselessinfo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/dismantlen70.htm But they don't actually show the power button, just it been removed with tweesers. Its a little square thing with a button and two wires each side: -|||- -|||- With a minute button on top that can be pressed with something extremely tiny, its probably less than 1cm across and 1cm down. I'll have to find a shopping center, or one of those random 'we repair mobile phones' signs and call them on the weekend. Just need to track them down.

90% sure you don't even need CAMS license or a fire extinguisher, I can't seem to find that in the FAQ's on the Winton website but its not a race...its a fun day

Actually if he has a R33 GTR Vspec he has ATTESA-ETS Pro, otherwise he has ATTESA-ETS only. Pro means viscous rear LSD which is not always a good thing....

Hey, After attempting to fit a new case on the Nokia N70, it looks great but the power switch fell out, it just sort of sits there under the case, and when I put it back in it just didn't work again. I can press the button as much as a like, sometimes it works if its in the correct position, but then it falls out of there again, the only consistent way is with the case off touch the front of the switch with a piece of metal and it works fine (like the tool to remove the case). Obviously that's not a solution for powering the phone on / off. I've spent a few hours on it and searched the net, but does anyone know a good phone repairer? Anyone? I would look around near work (Burnley area) but I'm looking to not get ripped off (too badly ). Regards, Gareth

RE Customs dyno, different day to this person's dyno obviously. But that's all in the past now

Giving away alcohol is *ok*, selling it means liquor license (used to be 10K or so in Vic at one point in time )

I got 156 KW with a MINES ECU and compliance cat converter, 3inch exhaust system. After tuning it was waaaay more powerful, stock turbo's can't remember what they were running maybe 10psi when it got 156awkw.

Really? I checked with traction tyres and showed them the SydneyKid settings and they said that's close to there recommended settings with one minor change somewhere. EDIT: For street, they said they would make changes if it was for a track day. And I'm not using the SydneyKid parts...

Try looking up SS8_GOHAN's brake squealing thread from a month or two ago. There's a few topics on squealing brakes if you search.

Even if the suspension did fit, the rates of the springs would be very different. EDIT: At least the front springs would be Do some searching on the forum and you'll find what you need. Also, if you don't put too much effort into the post, expect the more experienced SAU members to shoot you down very quickly for not searching.

Until your on a track, then it makes a difference

If your in Vic I'd recommend traction tyres, excellent customer service and decent pricing. Also check the SydneyKid group buys, he's got a recommended alignment in each of them for various model's of skyline.

Did he follow the HICAS tutorial in the relevant section of the site? I'd say no, because his power steering stopped working AND he didn't remove the globe, of course when HICAS is locked the warning light will go on. Does he have an R33? Did he attempt to disconnect anything inside the car? (Don't!) Note: before installing the lock bar the warning light would come on, mainly after highway driving and the car would feel strange while its on. There are ways to run the HICAS diagnostics but I just removed it and the car feels better for it now, I'll find out how much next track day

What about R33 GTR rims? 17*9 and lightweight (roughly 9.5KG). Not that cheap to buy though....

One more n00b question, if you don't turn up in the early morning, are you not allowed on the track? I mean, if I came at 10:30AM, past the normal briefing time, there is no afternoon session? Its just the people who got there on time are still around in the afternoon? A friend is considering bringing his ford laser lol

Instead of calling the police you should have called dob-in-a-hoon and reported a dangerous street race....they would be there quick Nice work trying to do the right thing, too bad the police didn't respond appropriately.

A pretty ambiguous question, if they're both stock of course the GTR wins. Its like comparing the sports version of a car to the standard version, what a surprise Hmmm, will the clubsport be faster than the normal commodore with a few mods? If you had a budget of 30K including all mods and you wanted one car to be faster than the other, than the GTST will probably win because you bought it so much cheaper and you have much more $$$ to spend on it. But whats your aim? Winning a drag race? Track race? Anyway, personally I went for a GTR

Sounds like you haven't read the thread OR even attempted to read the first page! Thats not in the list of known quality oils, it *might* be Group III...maybe, if you want quality oil you will be paying a bit more. 5w40 sounds ok for a rating, closer to 0w30 will be better unless your engine gets hot often. The higher km's idea has been discussed and it was concluded you don't really need to go with a thicker oil as the engine gets older...(at least I think, double check the thread to know for sure)

Interesting, I was expecting to get flamed for the idea lol. The other idea I had was an approximation of power to times but there's too many variables...so maybe just a where to drag sticky

Timing or no timing, $25 for some track time is soooo cheap. But there's very little info on the website, do you need to book in for it? Do you pay on the day? And there is no fire extinguisher requirement?

Have you tried the alternative drivers from Omega's Corner? http://www.omegadrivers.net/ They're based off ATI drivers but tweaked for performance, its debatable if its faster than ATI or not...

Just thought I'd re-quote that for anyone who doesn't understand the oil ratings, I had trouble finding that, it was in response to one of my questions Also there is a discussion of 5w40 Fuchs Synthetic Oil which is not mentioned in the lists here.