some_cs_student

But was the fish tail fully sik uleh? The officer probably impounded him for not doing it right. lol

The only place that crushes cars is California, what about all the other US states? The rest don't at the moment uleh. I don't think crushing cars is a good idea, instead of confiscating the cars, why not confiscate the car and make sure they attend an advanced driving course or similar if they haven't done so already? While they're there show them how things are done on the track, maybe we could get them from been idiots on the street.

I've always had a few issues with my RB30DE, highway I can get ~11-12 litres/100km. Start pushing it and you won't get good economy...(like most other cars), I used to get 15l/100km with traffic but I think my RB30DET is below average, its a very old engine.

I don't get the point about brembo's, R33 GTR's have them too... Also the "finned" rear diff is an electronically controlled viscous diff, NOT a mechanical diff like normal GTR's. ie. very expensive if it breaks...

Ahhh, some nice prices there, when you say 1 set of A1RM, is that 1 set for front and rear (for R33 GTR)? I'm interested in buying front and rear as both of them don't have much pad left....

Search within the FAST threads (two of them) for R33 GTS-4 you should fine something...

PM sent, awaiting reply

Why would the clutch fan turn off, its on a belt that isn't going to stop while the engine is on ? Anyway, the clutch fan will start slipping at higher RPM because the fan can't spin at too higher speed, and it will lock more and spin faster when the cars hot (at idle speed anyway).

I have a 3-4 page resume, thats before I had much experience and I this was highly recommended by anyone I had it reviewed by....adding voluntary work on the resume can take up a lot of space.

I have the same issue but its because we painted the springs and the helper spring, so when I hit a hard bump, ie. speedhump, the spring compresses and makes a loud sqeaking sound. Sounds different to your issue though, can you compress the car when its stationary and get any sound?

Stock ECU's can't be tuned (or re-tuned easily) the boost controller could be "tuned". But its more just putting the settings on the controller correct. If your losing boost you may have a problem which a workshop could assist with, how are you measuring boost though? Also, most states have a recommended workshop list, I'd recommend workplace, just drive to Bayswater, Victoria

EDIT: re-read the first post. No R33 GTR pads . Sorry.

I've bought and never had an issue, have a look at his trader rating on the forum....that's what trader ratings are for

Street cred? He'll be in jail and afterwards he can't drive on the road for 5 years...how is that street cred?

After that list it gets even more strict as you progress through the interviews/get close to the final stages. On another note, would you be interested in a recommendation for Oakton (IT consulting)? I've had a look over your resume, its impressive but Oakton is a purely software based company, so I'm not sure if you will be challenged here or not, there are management positions around....I'm not sure if they're hiring for them right now. We're a bit over 1000 people now so I can forward your resume if your interested, just PM me. The website is: http://www.oakton.com.au

Well thats fair enough because Jim Berry is Australian, he's well recommended on these forums for his great clutches...

Brake fluid???? Are you sure? GeeTR thats correct, the recommended fluid from memory is ATF III (power steering fluid). although Nissan recommends the Nissan D-matic stuff...(slightly different to ATF III). Personally I use a synthetic ATF III which is supposedly compatible with Nissan D-matic (according to East Coast Autospares)/

Just to make it crystal clear on the S3, as WRRR said, 1 reverse light, 1 fog light (ie. red coloured light that has a switch under the steering wheel to turn on/off).

I've seen vented bonnets with covers so you can cover it up in wet weather, and drop it out during warm weather to allow more air to flow through.

Done, see below. Sorry couldn't get that to go through. Is that a Japanese model? European? I have Japanese files turned on at the moment. Couldn't find that one either, are you sure the VIN is correct?

But wouldn't it be a good idea to prevent pinging? I know its a good idea on the track but since the drag is soooo much shorter is it even worth going a higher octane fuel?

That picture looks familiar from there, and which gauge do you actually pay attention to? The A-pillar gauges are cool, but they do get in your way a little bit when turning right, the boost gauge mounted on the steering wheel is sorta useful

There's a few topics on causes of this if you search....just look for the "overheating" threads. EDIT try this one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ng-t214234.html

I think the conclusion of the thread was go greater than dot 4 only if your doing a track day with good pads...(and even then, its unlikely to boil...maybe if your running semi slicks and track pads dot 5.1 is definitely a good idea). Sydneykid, who does race advised that he uses Castrol Dot 4 without any issues at all. which is an interesting opinion, I have never boiled brake fluid so I'm considering going back to Dot 4 and seeing how it goes Does that sound about right?

Probably can't help you....but its not for an aftermarket gauge is it? Ie. extra sensors going to the radiator or oil that would plug into a gauge that was once in the A-pillar.