some_cs_student

Oh ok, I keep forgetting I'm running aftermarket slotted rotors, braided lines, and I don't know what pads I'm running (came with the car from Japan). Yes I have done spirited driving and a track day at Sandown, the pads last 4 hot laps before they start getting soft on street tyres. I don't live in the hills but I keep forgetting that when I bought my 'line it wasn't stock in the first place so I'll withdraw that comment, I don't know what stock brakes feel like.

Have a look at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...-H-t206986.html I'm not sure about the Bendix ultimates, I've heard there expensive but good, see the brake pad ratings sticky in this section!

Lol, heatsoak? When stopping at traffic lights? I don't see how that could happen on the streets doing normal driving or even spirited driving.

I've read, and I emphasize the *read* and not *know* part , that a similar problem can also be caused by the driveshaft from the gearbox to the rear diff. Does it have any play in it? I think my issue might be in one of the half shafts, I get a loud clunk on gear change and accelerating (after not accelerating for a while).

Found out the black lines which I was calling "rubber" are actually Japanese braided lines, they're just really dirty. I'm getting some custom lines made up to fit in here that are ADR compliant and getting a refund from BrakeWest. BrakeWest's customer service skills are excellent and I'd certainly buy off him again, its just that someone else has offered to do some custom lines at an extremely cheap price

BrakeWest has advised that the rear looks lines look different to normal, do most GTR's run a flexible hose directly to the caliper? The guy at BrakeWest has offered a full refund or if I can take my lines off he will try and make some that match, is it still a good idea to get braided lines? Oh, rear rotors are stock size so I should be fine for pads .

Sorry about the multiple threads, I was trying to make it easier for anyone who was searching for info on the same problem in the future... Ok, the problem is what 2 rubber hoses? I only have one from memory, although the pics make it look like there are two rubber hoses, so I will confirm again tomorrow night. Anyway, here's some edited pics I have uploaded.

There should be some info around if you search, but it depends on the gear your in and it changes quite if you have adjustable cam gears.... Anyway, I found in the R33 GTR somewhere around 2800RPM they kick in in 2nd gear, full boost, maybe 3500PM but I'm not too sure, after cam gears this was quite a bit lower. In 4th gear with CAM gears they now start spooling at 2500 RPM or so and full boost kicks in very early (carefully tuned CAM gears and 1 bar boost). An easy way to determine it will be go to a dyno day...

I created this thread to confirm that they are standard lines. But still no idea how to fit them, does anyone have an install guide for the braided brake lines? Or any tips on how you installed them? I can't see how they would connect the existing system doesn't have block connectors on it at all. Thanks, Gareth

But I did measure the disk, it was roughly 33cm, so 324mm sounds about right. And the rear rotors, I assume there standard size as well? Thanks a lot for the info, if the lines are standard than the braided lines should fit, I just can't see how I'll look at getting someone else to install it if I can't work it out.

Hey, Just continuing my existing discussion about will the group buy brake lines fit my R33 GTR I've taken a few pictures of what my brake lines and rotors actually look like. I'm getting the feeling they might not be standard size, can anyone help me by confirming? I did some measurements but wasn't sure what to measure, anyway what I have is: Front Overall rotor size: 33cm The disc part of the rotor (the silver part) 5.5cm The centre section of the rotor - approx 19cm Caliper length: 25cm Rear Overall rotor size: 31cm The disc part of the rotor (the silver part): 4.5cm Centre of rotor: 18cm approx Caliper length: 17cm All the measurements are approximate of course. I have a lot of pictures because I'm in a rush, just a little worried that the brake lines I bought don't fit, and I'm unsure if the pads I bought are correct. After the pic of the second disk they are all the pics of the rear rotor and lines... Regards, Gareth

Thanks a lot Mark. I think my current ones must be aftermarket then, I have a 1 piece brake hose on the front with a bracket there to hold it, it doesn't look like these particular lines will be able to connect. I might need some other parts to put these in. Does anyone have a picture of what the factory R33 GTR lines look like? I'll try and post pictures of what my ones look like tomorrow.

You know he's talking about the track right? And what do you mean change at the right revs? I'm sure he doesn't have an issue changing at 4000 RPM, but its a track...

I normally get this issue after blowing an indicator globe. However (once) I needed a new universal timer thing that controls the indicator timing, I can't remember the real part name....except that it was about $15 and bought from Bursons or Autobarn.

Any help here? I'm sure other people have braided lines on there R33 GTR....

Hey, Just want to confirm I got the correct braided brake lines as they look completely different to whats on the car. I've attached a pic of what the R32 GTR ones look like from the Markk group buy on ADR approved lines. Is this the correct ones for an R33? They don't look anything like whats on there now so I'm not sure about fitting them on.... Has anyone fitted there R33 GTR's ones? Are these the correct lines? Apologies for the terrible pictures, I don't want to take it out of the packaging if it is the wrong one.... Regards, Gareth

From my rough knowledge, everything non-factory and mechanical has to go, I mean they're not going to see the forged pistons, but they will likely remove the exhaust et cetera....

Bad luck with that one, but your much safer having it sitting in the centre console, what's going to happen if you brake hard? at least you could say that you were using loudspeaker or similar if it was there.... Also laws vary by state so more info

Why I didn't know they existed, I've posted one question on the R33 version.

One thing I'm confused on in this tutorial is: Does this apply for R32 GTR's only? I thought I saw a mention of R33 GTR's somewhere near that post....does this need to be done? EDIT in another post on this forum I found; Ah right, so they were referring to the R32 then...

Here's the FAST.

Accepting all offers just PM me.

Isn't the lock bar to make sure it never moves....? Anyway, I'm looking at HICAS lock bars, there's a lot of talk about ripping it all out but I'm pretty sure that relates to the R32 (or does it?) Cheapest I've found so far is: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...bayphotohosting If anyone knows where to get it cheaper that would be great, all the R33 bars look identical to me.

Yes, RWD is completely different to FWD. Also, don't try going from a front-wheel biased AWD to a rear-wheel biased AWD, you will be in trouble! Attitude and skill on the road is everything. Power is nothing without control. Oh, I agree with most of Scathing post's in the thread, nice work In regard to getting something done besides talking, action takes more effort than posting here...not that I'm volunteering

Oops, RB30E, tuned? Where? I thought the ECU would re-tune itself each time the battery is reset... Maybe PM me as this is getting off-topic.