some_cs_student

I got a battery from the wrxhoon group buy, has been fine for the past 5months, even though the car is not driven that often. It's a chinese brand that is said to possibly be the same manufacturer as optima.... EDIT: the car usually gets started once every week or two and the battery has been fine.

I don't have the expertise here, but I do spend most of the time communicating online at work and I'd have to say this is one of the areas where you *do* need specifics. Your talking about traction and power is going to make a big difference, there will never be a "sliver bullet" (magical fix for the problem). I think a generalisation was made and withdrawn, mistakes happen. For example I run 235mm wide tyres with no traction issues...then again I have 250RWKW on a GTR (street car, not race car ). An interesting discussion so far...

Point taken, but my springs are pretty hard and I don't think that worked perfectly on my car. Anyway, Victoria is 100mm off the ground from the lowest point of the car from what the legislation says, either way its too impractical to be below 100mm, I fear all driveways and I'm 11cm off the ground lol.

Didn't know autobarn sells it, performancelub.com also has it cheap

I'd recommend using the non-car part related for sale section....other items.

Withdrawn from sale, I can't seem to edit for some reason. I'm keeping these for now.

Interesting, I'm not concerned about defects, my lines look like there plastic (black plastic coating over plastic over braided line), my concern is insurance. Saying I couldn't stop because I didn't have ADR approved lines if something ever happened would be an issue. Thanks for the information.

Apologies for side-tracking the topic but where did you hear that? I've got a Japanese set of braided lines I'm selling, but if the ADR lines aren't that good I might keep the Japanese set.

Maybe he's referring to a straight cut gearset (ie. first 3 gears replaced). unique1 are you referring to a dog box or straight cut gearset?

If your getting it done professionally it should be fine but just be warned that after you adjust it and but it back down the height will go down a little more after driving when the shocks/springs settle into place. I noticed 1-2cm difference from the height it was at before the first time it was driven after the adjustment and after it was driven briefly.

Hmm, I don't have the company who did my custom brake lines written down, but they were ADR approved. There are a few places that do them, including that one in Sunshine (Brakewest). There are also some local places in the South Eastern suburbs, I assume they'd be in the yellow pages....but if you can't find someone I'll try and find out who it was.

There was some info in the tutorials section, not sure if it will help.

Item: Japanese braided brake lines Condition: Second hand, a little dirty but works great Price: 50 ONO To Fit: R33 GTR Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Please note that these are off a Japanese car and not ADR approved, the black wrapping you can see on one of the lines is plastic and was removed from the other line. They are some kind of braided lines with plastic over them and they do need a little cleaning. I am not sure if these will match the standard R33 GTR braking system, I only have 1 hose on the front brake's of my car where other people appear to have 2. The rear line goes straight to the caliper. For some pictures of how it looked on the car see: My do I have custom brakelines/rotors post... The brakes on my car have been great and I've never had any issues with these lines, I've replaced them with custom made ADR standard lines. Regards, Gareth

Reading the comments on here things make much more sense, although the way the news report came out it looked bad. I still don't approve of hitting someone while there done in any situation. I've seen a few guys get bashed by a 3 bouncers on 1 patron while he was on the ground. The bouncers were also using small batons. Not sure what they did but its too bad something like that didn't make the news (it happened about a month ago near Flinders street station).

Interesting....yes its lowered, the Japanese suspension had the front bar 85mm off the ground, or somewhere around 335 or 345mm centre of wheel to guard on the front. Its been raised to 355mm centre of wheel to guard (roughly, I haven't measured it for quite a while), and the rear is 10mm higher than the front.

All depends on the car, on my R33 GTR with standard "rake" (is that the right term?), ie the centre of wheel to guards measurement is 10mm more on the rear than the front, there is a big difference between the front and back of my car from the ground because I have a 400R front bar. The exhaust is well of the ground but the front bar is about 110mm off the ground or slightly less at its lowest point (very close to the 100mm underneath the centre)....(I've raised it twice since putting the Japanese suspension in, it used to be 85mm off the ground at the front bar which looked cool but was very very impractical). SydneyKid has some info in his group buy threads for suspension about optimum heights for handling, I'm actually well above that measurement because of the bodykit.

I think a rebuild using the Nismo shims would make a tight mechanical 2-way diff, what exactly is the diff for? Street? Track?

It was done by a friend of a friend so very little, however it didn't change the clunking or diff whine sounds, when opened up it looked fine, I've got a thread with many pictures on the forums. It did however stop it from making a lot of noise when reversing up the driveway (due to removing some pretension), it does still make sound when turning corners on the street, especially when the diff is cold.

Wouldn't that kill his shocks? Not an expert but I don't think it makes sense to go from really hard springs with shocks to match and then much softer springs but the same shocks.

+1 for traction for there excellent customer service and reasonable pricing.

Why is everyone changing at such low km/s? Are these street use? Track use? The oil thread actually mentions that filters become more efficient after 4K kilometres or something, and therefore you should probably run your oil for 10K if your using a good quality oil, depending on your usage. Just curious what everyone else's opinion is on the subject..? Regards, Gareth

I wouldn't say that the GTR's diff's are that low on pretension, but you can easily rebuild it with new shims and make it tighter. Probably a lot cheaper than buying a new one, the factory GTR LSD's are pretty strong.

I paid roughly $850 for install and tune but that was with adjustable cam gears and an excellent tune. The cam gears probably took some time to tune

I got a *large* difference in economy after getting a power FC, it all depends on the quality of the the tune/your AFR ratio down the bottom end if you want to drive economically AND your right foot .

If its manual this really depends on the clutch your using, my OS twin plate can be touch to use. However, skylines aren't that hard to drive but you have to be careful, especially in wet weather, although that applies to any performance car I'd recommend joining the club, doing an advanced driving course (driver dynamics) and then some track events