some_cs_student

I had to get a 3inch or 3.5inch exhaust part recently and the place that did it was making truck exhausts.

Yes they say that, but they will all also say "as long as the modification is legal", either over the phone or in the small print. You can list just about anything on the policy, but they still hold the "does it comply to ADR rules" thing above you. Thats why I've got ADR brake lines now and not Japanese braided lines.

Last 3 FAST's done except the V35. What year was the V35 made? I'm pretty sure it won't be in my copy of FAST as its from 2001 or 2002...

Ok, so I am getting mixed up with the R31 then which always turns off its fuel gauge. I'm going crazy. I've had the car for about 5 months now but don't get to drive it often, I must have ignored it before and only paid attention when I was actually making changes to the dash. End of thread, lol

Haven't done this (yet) but I've found what was making the clunking worse was that the driveshaft bolts near the diff were loose. One was basically out, another took a couple of turns and a few others were able to take a 1/2 turn and a couple were tight. Definitely something to check, the car hasn't been on a hoist because of the bodykit so we hadn't noticed it and we were looking at the diff and half/shafts.... There is a little play in the system so that might be part of the clunking. They have been tightened up now and its a little better, enough to not concern me anymore, I'm kinda used to it now

I can't seem to edit my messages today so just wanted to say: SOLD (FINALLY!)

Hey, I've installed a HICAS lock bar, and I'm going to get an alignment as soon as I can get a Saturday booking, so I decided to remove the HICAS light from the dash since its useless now. Since I removed it, and I went to put the cluster back in I saw the fuel gauge was turned on, and wouldn't go back to empty when I turned the ignition off. I took the cluster back out and shook it gently just in case there was a loose wire. After that I put it all back together, filled up with petrol today and the gauge went close to full and stays there. So it seems to be still working. But even with they keys out of the car, the ignition shows what fuel I have. Any idea why this is happening? Did I break something? The car is a Nissan Skyline R33 GTR Regards, Gareth

And you've read the SK settings at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=r33+gtr

Is that for a GTR? Or for something else? I got 156 AWKW (not on a good day), on my first dyno with a MINES ecu. After tuning with a PowerFC and high flow CAT and panel filter, adjustable cam gears >240RWKW I'd recommend getting rid of the non-tunable ECU and getting a PowerFC or similar.

The first post mentions and "Impul ECU". Whats an Impul ECU?

Ok, I'm pretty clueless with mechanics but why would a Tomei or another HICAS lock kit help with this? I've just installed a lock-bar from ebay ($90) in order to make or more predictable at loss of traction, not to help it from losing traction. There are suspension changes you can make to prevent to make a car less tail happy... Also which R33 are you driving? There's plenty of information on suspension settings in this forum, in particular look for posts by "SydneyKid"

Possibly interested but I'd need an oil filter relocation kit too. Still going? Whats the price?

Done. To the person asking about FAST, yes, its the Nissan parts software, not the Skyline only parts software The person asking about model information, look back a few pages and someone has translated the R33 info, the R32 info is around but hard to find

I disagree, any attempt to add engineering/scientific knowledge to a clueless discussion is a good thing. If you were looking at a topic you had in-depth knowledge on, are you saying you would ignore the technical errors in it? I know I wouldn't.

New price is $50 pick-up or $60 delivered anywhere in Aus. I won't go any lower on pick-up price. I've had a few offers but I'm waiting for to confirm there interest by calling me or actually picking it up....so its still available for now. EDIT: Sold pending payment.

Also try Ebay, some of the american sellers might have it fairly cheap...

Hmm, doesn't sound good, bad drivers are multiplying like bacteria The hoon legislation probably won't work, I think more advanced driving courses for the public so they know what will happen when they actually try and do a 100km/h stop in wet weather.

That goes strongly against what people are saying who have *20* years experience in advanced driving courses. And I know who's opinion I would trust. 32PSI is waaay too low, I wouldn't even run that in my R31 on the street! Do the advanced driving course and find out, I did high pressures 38 or 40PSI on a wet track for the advanced driving course like everyone else, my stopping times were excellent and absolutely no problems with grip on street tyres in the R33. The theory remains that unless you inflate it hard (38-40PSI cold) then your not getting full contact from the tyre to the road, if you overinflate then you will wear the middle but thats pretty hard to do, where under inflation is a lot easier. ** This is for the street and I have run them in 17inch 45 profile tyres... The track / drag strip will be different so I'm interested in people's opinions on it, especially the track

And you swerve onto the other side of the road into oncoming traffic (with some space there to make it back), you need to accelerate to get back into the LHS of the road before the oncoming traffic hits you but your in neutral and....

I thought its closer to .9 BAR on 34's and .85 bar on R33's, anyway .92 bar sounds about right Debatable, there are thread on here that have done a RWD then an AWD dyno and lost 1KW. Others have noticed big differences but its usually different dyno/different day so its not comparable. I think the 175AWKW for an R34 sounds about right, when shopping around I'd seen higher than that though for stock R34's.

Agreed, some of the responses here are not the best, I'm a n00b but let me try and post my opinion on the issue. Agreed, suspension setup IS a big deal with more power. But then so are your tyres, tyres are very important for traction. Unless you have lots of $$$ why don't you upgrade the power slightly and see how it goes? You will do better with a well setup suspension system with correct spring rates AND correct alignment et cetera, if your going up 100RWKW then you will likely want to do the suspension at the same time. Ignore the comment about coil-overs not been good, you just need the right coilovers, probably look at the SydneyKid group buys for suspension in the for sale, group buy section. And then it depends on what your using your car for....drag, drift, circuit, street?

The castrol performanelub.com sells, the German 0w30 or the American 5w40 is supposed to be very good

I believe the R33/R34 transfer cases are always have some power going to the front wheels, I think its called "preloading" the system, its like 5% or a small figure....R32's didn't have this preload from what I've read (not an expert so I'm not 100% sure). But that part is different to an R32 so I don't know how the R32 GTR transfer case will work.

Whats with the anger, its a legitimate question...? Anyway, twin turbo upgrade FTW, there's even a group buy on twin's for just over 2K + installation....

I have a non-V-spec R33 GTR so when reversing up the driveway the car shudders but that was previously the mechanical diff. When going both forward and (possibly) a little louder when reversing I get grinding and sometimes vibration from the front but...not sure if its normal or not.