some_cs_student

Or go to the wreckers and save some $$$

The recommended fluid is some kind of Nissan fluid, I think its Nissan D-matic or similar. Search for ATTESA or ATTESA fluid change or similar, you will find the info you need....

greenline.jp

I've also heard that having higher pressures means less sidewall flex and less heat built up (or should I say less quickly)? Anyway, thanks for the opinion.

I hate to ask the newbie question, but I assume you would normally run lower pressures on the track? I ran the usual street pressures, about 38psi on 17/9/45 (factory rims) tyres on the track and handling was excellent, one of the instructors thought I was running semi-slicks For an R33 GTR is that too high for the track? But is it bad for the tyre? It was my first track day so I wasn't sure what I should/should not have been running.

80w140? This is similar to the Redline shockproof, is that what your using? Most people use lightweight shockproof. I've seen MT-90 recommended although I'm going to try MTL first... http://performancelub.com/Redline%20pricelist.htm

Point taken, I was going off advice from this forum from some people who recommended going RBF600 in the fluid. I'll consider using standard dot 4.1 fluid next fluid change with some decent pads Thanks for the advice.

I stand by my original suggestions here, although I do agree that I had the same issue with graphics card overheat. Someone broke a couple fins off the fan when they helped me clean the dust out (with an air compressor, lol). Try the self-booting CD's I've mentioned if you have access to another PC and don't want to re-install windows.

slidewize imports can probably help. Good luck, I'm hoping my R33 never does this as xenons cost too much

Interested in this, I get a jerking at really low speed if I try to slip the clutch. I have the clunk on release/apply of throttle, and on every gear change, the diff has been rebuilt but that doesn't seem to be the issue. I *think* we found a little slack in the driveshaft, although it still needs to be confirmed.

Just be warned that in some states having a de-cat pipe can be a huge fine. Victoria is somewhere around 10K if the EPA catches you... Batmbl sells quality metal cats, although I'd recommend the extra $$$ to get one with flanges from him, as I found getting someone to fit flanges carefully was expensive

Here you go

Or if you don't care about how your key looks just take it to the locksmith and get one cut, doesn't cost much but you don't get the nice key that the Skylines have which is sold on the forums as a blank key...

Definitely a possibility, I would agree with the above post. There is an easy way to test these theories. Get something like the 911 rescue CD or the ultimate boot CD (windows off a disk, just like knoppix is for linux). Or Memtest86, something that will cause some stress, run it. Or run a linux distro off a CD and see if it gets shutdown. Does it shutdown? Then its doesn't sound like a software issue... Also could you elaborate on the problem? Does it physically power off or reset? (I had this with the Power Supply). Does it reset / freeze randomly? I had this with damaged RAM and in one case, damaged motherboard cache (unlikely but possible). Have you cleaned dust off the motherboard and CPU? Build-up causes excess heat, I've cleaned a computer out and had it working for a while after that

Sold for $350 . At least its sold.

Check the obvious as posted above first, like do you have enough fluid in the radiator, has it gotten so hot that its actually boiled out of the overflow...or do you just think its hot? Do you have a power FC or an aftermarket gauge for checking the degree of the coolant? Since you said you "popped the bonnet" I'll assume your talking about the engine bay There is a bit of info on the forums, from what I've seen, although I don't claim to be an expert, if the engine coolant is really getting hot (as in really hot) you *could* have: *Blockage in the radiator *Problems with your water pump *Problems with your clutch fan (ie. the fan on the front of the engine). *Air in the lines of the radiator(?) With the 3rd one, an easy way to test is when the car is hot, pop the bonnet and turn the engine off, if your fan keeps spinning for a long time then the clutch/viscous coupling *may* be gone. If it stops spinning immediately then its fine. Another way is to get the car warm and before you start the car touch the fan gently with your hand or similar and get someone to start it, (don't put your hand right into the fan or anything), if your fan has no resistance when the car is hot then your clutch is gone and you should consider buying a new one. *** I did have this problem and the part was $300 from Bursons. However having the clutch fan go is one of the less common problems that happen, when was the last time your radiator was flushed? And did you use the bleed valve of the top of the engine? And before I get flamed about the above, I'm just trying to help, and yes, I have put my hand on the fan before starting the car, yes my hand is still intact (when the fan was not working it wouldn't move with 1 finger on it)

Hey, It was recommended to use RBF600 for track days, to avoid the fluid boiling, is there any disadvantage to using it over say Motul dot 5.1? I'm planning on using some better pads next time but my pads are not rated close to 600 degrees...

A little backfire when backing off the accelerator is ok isn't it? Happens sometimes on my car but I was assuming its normal.

Whats a GT-V? If your referring to an R34 turbo model than yes.

Anybody at all? I just want them sold this time, I'll let them go for $350 if I have to...

Agreed, I'm 23 and rating 2, soon to be rating 1 , clean record and I pay close to 1.5K for a R33 GTR on agreed value with some mods.

Ah so it is the same as the R31? In the R31 the alternator will "self excite" when you hit 2 or 3K RPM, but before that your voltage will be very weak. To get it working the globe in the dash had to be working, in the R31 it was a globe called "alternator" that switched off when you start the car, if it fails to do this the alternator doesn't kick in unless you self-excite it.

Anybody? Just bid damn it! I want them gone..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R34-...1QQcmdZViewItem

This law was still special circumstances though, it won't work in general cases.... As far as people getting done, they're probably smart enough to not attract any attention/not drive often, or drive it LEGALLY (ie. full license).

Still awaiting for a bid....