some_cs_student

Darkest legal tint is actually not as dark as you would expect. It's very easy to see through and at night its not *that* difficult to see through but it certainly makes things harder. My skyline has what I *think* is factory darkened glass (or is it tint), under Victorian laws its ok if its factory (rear windscreen and the quarter panels (I think thats there name, the ones behind the passenger/driver side windows). Also under Victorian law the tint is supposed to be the same % all round, I had a lot of tinter's tell me otherwise. Vicroads has this info, I assume there is an equivalent in Queensland Good luck.

Hi, I'm seeing plenty of threads about people getting done for speeding or losing there license, I haven't owned my GTR for long but I certainly don't want to give it a test on the streets as getting to 100km/h is boring! What motorsport (or motorsport like) events does SAU Vic have in the coming months? I noticed there's a non-SAU advanced driving course that looks interesting, I might be attending that one depending on the work roster. Eg. skidpan's, motorkana et cetera Currently I do not have a CAMS license but I can always get one if the event needs it. I have not driven my new car beyond the legal limits so I want to find out what it can really do Regards, Gareth

Ok, got the diff back in now, 1 (single) plate has been removed. It locks *less*, so I can roll back a little easier and reverse out of the drive way without having both wheels lock. The front wheels also engage a little more at low speed, previously one rear wheel would spin in the air and the front wheels would hardly engage. Used redline oil this time, clunk is a little less loud, diff whine is quieter. The lock engages very easily with a tiny amount of power but when reversing or cornering at slow speed / light acceleration it doesn't appear to lock. Is the clunking sound normal for a GTR 2 way mechanical LSD?

Thanks turboedsloth, I found: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...tml&hl=diff And some pics of the R200 with Nismo clutch plates on: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...ficial&sa=N So its possible he has put aftermarket clutch packs into a standard diff centre (maybe) or its been shimmed tighter, I dropped Cubes a PM, R31Nismoid is the other one who has had this done according to that thread.

Hmm, interesting, I have the clunk when changing gears haven't noticed it on corners but I have the diff apart now and its getting rebuilt soon. Will tell you how I go. It also has diff whine...

No, we will do an oil change next, the front diff has had an oil change and it had an unusual clear coloured oil, so did the rear diff. Are you sure this is standard? As the diff is it never unlocks, ie. turning corners one wheel just skips which is a little annoying and you hear a groaning sound from inside the diff. Reversing up into the driveway the diff groans and makes a sound like something is grinding (a little bit like a scraping sound) and there feels like some vibration as well from the rear, also the front wheels don't engage (or at least I haven't noticed them engage) and the wheels spin if they are off the ground....(front wheels do engage lightly when in a straight line and accelerating hard or accelerating on cornering so ATTESA is still working). I've seen the noise description on some aftermarket diff's. Do you know how many plates stock diff's have, 6 on each side of the diff? Taking one plate out on each side seems to improve things, and it should still lock fine when accelerating harder so this is probably the way it will be rebuilt.

New pics of the diff apart...(after washing ). Does this held identify the diff? There's currently 6 plates on each side, we might be removing one so there's 5 a side and a little less preload...

The diff has 6 plates on each side so one may be removed to reduce preload. I will put some photos up later.

There were no metal filings mixed in with the oil. The diff looks pretty new on the inside. Tyres are brand new, have only done 300km/s or so, Dunlop Le Mans, and I'd be worried if they made a high pitch whine rather than a bit of road noise Apparently crown wheel is ok too so maybe the diff just needs its pre-load adjusted a little. Which may be done by removing a clutch plate and that has me a little concerned, I will see how it goes. Thanks for the info.

The spider gear support your referring to is the last picture isn't it? Currently the diff has a lot of preload, which would explain why it skips on corners, not quite sure what was causing the clunking and whining yet.

Hi everyone, My diff currently makes a loud "clunk" sound when getting on and off the power, it also has diff whine while driving about about 60km/h. It's fairly loud, not too bad. However the clunk is kind of worrying and has been there since I got the car from Japan so we pulled the diff out on Sunday and a mechanic is having a look at it but he's not familiar with these diffs. Can you identify the diff from the pics? Its out of an R33 GTR (non Vspec). And should the ends of that cross pinion be round or square on the ends? The pics not too clear but its ends are square which might be what is causing the clunk... Sorry for the quality of the pics, I was not the one taking photos so these are the best I can get for now. Any help appreciated as always. Regards, Gareth

It was a good day and there were plenty of nice skylines around. I've got a few photo's but I'm sure everyone else has them too Do people blank out the number plates before putting the photo's up? I don't like having my plates on public forums. Oh, I didn't really get to meet anyone because everyone seemed to be in some sort-of group and I didn't really know anyone. I'll have to ask my questions on the forums and email. Does anyone know what motorsport events are coming up that are relevant to a non-CAMS licensed beginner? - Gareth

Open to new offers, please PM me what you consider a realistic price is.

Still open to new offers...

I've got one of these in my GTR, works great and never had a problem with it.

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There's a thread dedicated to this.... Anyway, please edit your other two posts so people don't look the VIN up 3 times

Ok, another question about my rear diff. The rear diff locks on most corners and the whine/clunk is getting looked at in the next fortnight (finally!). However, it would appear that the rear diff is likely aftermarket and I don't think stock diff's lock on corners as much as this diff does. Does the recommendation for the Redline 75w90 oil in the rear diff still correct? Or should I be using something else?

Will now take $90 for the pods. Make an offer if your interested.

Can we turn this thread into facts (and reasonable assumption) or ban? There's only a tiny amount of real discussion in here.

Well if Wikipedia is right, which is not all the time: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating Japan and Aus are probably using the same ratings for Fuel, Japan just gets better fuel

Had a look and found the EVC 4 manual, or Japanese EVC 3. Its the same manual on the HKS website so I think I've seen all the documentation available. I checked through the various links on your website but didn't find it...

Oops, 100 is the default setting, its probably been adjusted from there for low offset I was just feeling a bit paranoid because I accidentally turned the dial on the controller without knowing what it would do. If anyone is looking for the links to the manual look at the first post for the HKS USA manual's.

He's done a lot of modifications to the car and he likely has had it "learn" correctly. However the manual said something about the offset been 100 after it has been through learning mode, so maybe it was changed after that. And the car's battery was dead for a few weeks, do the settings get stored somewhere so they don't rely on power? (Just been paranoid, I know it should ).

Haha, but I found out a few days ago that there is someone who might be able to get it done with there other sandblasting work and therefore it will probably be very cheap. I'm still planning to get some blasting done to it before it gets repainted!