some_cs_student

Got bored one day when I wanted to work out my spring rates for the ohlins coilovers I had a tried to guess the spring constant rate Sydney Kid's program was using using some basic mathematics. Unfortunately I could never get it quite right , but if anyone has an idea of how to fix my little excel spreadsheet calculator please PM me Attachment fixed, excel files are not allowed spring_rate_calculatorv2_excel97.zip

I don't think these fit GTST's good luck though!

Bump, accepting offers Email notification doesn't always work so PM is an easy way to contact me

Anyone replaced the rear half shafts before?

Hey, sure did. Stepping it out and slamming the brakes worked surprisingly well. Thats not normally my first reaction, especially in my non-abs daily driver but I will definitely try to find the threshold point soon, at the start I was braking too soft in my ABS car. I tried correction twice without brakes and once I was successful, next time I spun out and nearly ended off the track . Well, in an oil spill my friends still think not hitting the brakes too hard as you will lose control is the best way to go. Whats your opinion on that? I assume ABS cars would be fine, it would just take longer to stop, non-ABS you would need to find the threshold. Of course they have the usual ideas, try correcting it and brake gently not hard With loss of control I've been advising that braking is the best solution after been enlightened by the course . I think people need to attend the course to believe it. Gareth

Do you happen to have the rear driveshaft's? Or halfshaft's (the ones that go to the wheel)?

It was a great day, I learnt a lot about car control, I'm still having arguments with people who disagree with the "brake when you lose control" idea. They still think its incorrect It was great to finally meet some of the SAU people, I was in a group with a couple of skylines, Red S15 and an older style Ford Falcon. My GTR didn't exactly have an issue with getting sideways on that corner

Hmm, found ohlins on an R33 that are said to be 5.0kg/mm F, 5.3 R according to this GTR.co.uk post so maybe thats how stiff they are. I'll try and find the measurements I did on them and the estimation I had for the spring rate and see if its close

Attached. Still don't know how to run stagea vins, if you could tell me which part is "VIN" and which part is "CODE" in FAST I can do it eg. HNR32 - 036476 works But I can't do NM35-303200 OR NM353-0200 Or any other combination I tried. I don't know how to use it for engine numbers, so can't help you either

Bump. Still available

Ok diff housing has been machined by 20thou and rebuilt, it doesn't groan during slow speed reversing. However it locks at slow speed corners still, at least a little and you can sometimes here one wheel "skip" a little. Overall its better. Anyway, the clunking noise appears to be coming from the drive shaft , probably the CV joints. So good luck if anyone else has the problem

Hi everyone, It appears that the clunk from the rear of the car is the driveshaft, there is wear on the driver's side rear of the car, the passenger side appears to be ok. The diff makes a few noises but its not the clunking noise that happens on gear changes There is a guy selling the CV joints on ebay which are the most likely culprit for the noise: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R32-...1QQcmdZViewItem Has anyone bought off ebay? Is that overpriced? Would you recommend replacing the CV joints for a clunking driveshaft? Has anyone here done it before? Regards, Gareth

Apologies for hi-jacking the thread, but everyone else seems to be doing it anyway Interesting point, I'm using Ohlin's adjustable coilovers (came with my car from Japan), the rears feel very stiff, the fronts feel a lot softer but maybe thats just my imagination due to there been more weight on the front it goes down much easier. Interestingly the owner has also changed the sway bars, and all control arms, I haven't had a chance to test the handling but I hope to sometime soon. After going from stock R34 struts the Ohlin's seemed harsh until I made a few adjustments (little things on the top) and its a nice ride now, it feels softer than R34 struts now. Does anyone know what the spring rates are in them? They look a lot like the coil-overs in this thread, J-boys posts. Maybe this thread should be cleaned and stickied? Great thread so far

I have a stock diff thats is very tight (probably been tightened by the previous owner), the tyres skip on corners at low speed , its not quite a squealing sound but more of a one-tyre is skipping so I can turn (at low speed). The diff groans when reversing at low speed (it does this much less since we loosened it slightly, still locks on corners though). It has no high pitched noises...

Tried running the stagea VIN but couldn't get it working. Skylines VINs are similar to BNCR33 XXXXXX where the first part is the model. Is there any more to your VIN# that I can try using? Or do you have a stagea VIN that someone has done before?

SOLD Item: R34 GTR Struts (springs and shocks, front and rear) Age: Unknown Condition: Excellent Price: $350 starting price, really damn cheap To Fit: (What car) R33 or R34 GTR's or R34 turbo models Location: Melbourne Contact: PM or email somecsstudent(at)gmail.com Comments: Please PM me offers if you are interested. Sold on ebay for $350

Read the oil thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...0&start=780 I think your referring to Redline lightweight shockproof which is often used for older gearboxes. Some people say its fine in newer gearboxes some people prefer MTL or similar. I used Redline 75w90 in my mechanical GTR rear diff. Obviously if you have a viscous diff you would be using something else. There's a guy called http://performancelub.com/ that sells redline pretty cheap. Regards, Gareth

Sold pending payment.

Damn email notification is not working ali-turko, South Eastern suburbs

Email notification is still not working restless, no idea, I assume that GTST have different boss kits but I've never really looked. Steering wheel sold! Boss kit still available!

Motul 300V comes in a few varieties, I don't know why you would use 15w50 in a street driven skyline. Maybe 5w30 or 5w40 on the street would make more sense in my opinion.

I'm having a little difficulty understanding your english, but I interpret your last sentence as your mechanic put 75w90 oil in the small tank in the right hand side of your boot (known as "trunk" in American terms) behind that little cover. First photo in: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l&hl=attesa The guide doesn't apply exactly to the R33 but have a look at first photo, is that the tank? If so then thats a problem, your supposed to put Nissan D-matic fluid OR ATF Dextron III (see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/AT...l=attesa+fluid) do not put OIL in there. The tank contains fluid for the ATTESA system, it goes to the transfer case, if you changed the fluid in the transfer case it uses the same fluid as the boot do not put any oil in it. Regards, Gareth

Been 6inches its not going to be able to produce deep sub-bass it does go down to 39Hz according to the specs on Jaycar. Does mention a 10 litre box should be used. I would be a little worried about how it would sound if its pointing at the glass rather than pointing towards the outside of the boot or similar. Anyone tried them?

Deposit down. I'll be attending this one.

And I did appreciate your first attempt to help me. I understand this as replace the plug in pictures 1 & 2 with a new plug that can be bought from Jaycar or Dick Smiths. Wire the existing 4 wires that are going into the plug into 4 slots in the new plug (female end?). The wire your turbo timer directly to this new plug (male end?) and its all good. Well at least that is what I want to do. The part of your post I find confusing if you mention a "56276BL", a 6 way connector? I've bought a 56274BL, a 4 way connector because one end only has 4 wires... My issue is the Apexi turbo timer, currently has 5 wires on the end of it, its not connected to anything and hasn't been since I got the car. And the other plug that it *looks* like it will connect to has 4 wires. The problem I have is, how do I connect these 5 bare wires to the plug in my glovebox. Or am I looking at the wrong plug for this? Some of these plugs in the glovebox run too a boost controller as well so I think this is the correct plug that I'm looking at, I'm not 100% sure. Does that make more sense? I'm better at the IT side of things unfortunately (software) P.S. I'll send my washing over soon lol