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some_cs_student

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  1. Not that I'm aware of, they are for the GTR. Selling in 18hours at $450!!!!!
  2. The idea seems simple enough to me, more air into the airbox means more airflow into the car. More cold air is good for a car, but more important for turbo'ed cars than N/A from my small knowledge on cars Air deflectors don't exactly help FMIC's anyway.
  3. Thanks for all the replies I'll try and check some of those places out. I will be wearing the helmet a bit but not that much, 20mins at a time (at least) on the 15th March, but for most of the day
  4. Thanks SydneyKid, I thought they were hard. I either measured them wrong or I'm too fussy
  5. They are probably aftermarket because they're big and thick (with surface rust ). I measured it recently and I couldn't seem to get an accurate measurement before the cat but its a thick pipe, somewhere between 9 and 10inches circumference so about 3inch thick near the cat...(hard to measure). The exhaust itself appears to be roughly 3.3inches near the end so its probably a 3inch pipe. The compliance cat is about 8.5 inches round or so, it worked out to roughly 2.5inches entry and its very thin and flat, looks like it won't be flowing much air. I would take a photo but I'd need to jack up the car and its going for tuning in a week or two so I'll know for sure then. New cat and highflow panel filter, tuned boost controller and PowerFC (replacing the mines ECU) should make a huge difference over the previous 156.6 awkw
  6. Well obviously I didn't know those shops existed . Excellent idea, I'll slip out during lunchtime next week and see whats available in my budget category I should also check if they've got that quality 5.1 brake fluid, like the Motul RBF600 or Lucas RBF600 racing fluid, maybe I can get a deal on them The place I checked was $30/500ml for Motul so a little expensive. According to the CAMS apparel info I found, helmets must match any of: AS1698 - Australian standard Snell SA95, SA2000, SA2005 - USA standard SFI Spec 31.1, 31.2, 31.1A, 31.2A - USA standard SFI Spec 24.1 - see Note (i)(d) - USA standard E22 (with 03, 04 or 05 amendments) - European standard BS 6658-85 Type A and A/FR (incl. amendments) - British standard 8860-2004 - FIA standard So I think buying a motorcycle helmet should match one or more of these and I'll be fine Thanks for the good ideas so far! Regards, Gareth
  7. Hi, I'm looking for a half-decent helmet for the occasional track event, I've had a look at Kawasaki motors on Nepean Hwy Moorabbin but there cheapest helmets were $300 and the one that fitted well was $350. Just wondering if anyone happens to know a place that sells helmets pretty cheap in either Bentleigh/Moorabbin area, and are hopefully open Saturdays or afterhours. Or anywhere near Richmond or Bunley area, anywhere near work where I can slip out during lunch is good I'm aiming to spend less than $200 if I can, I will consider buying second hand if I see a good helmet Also, are there any particular standards I need to look out for? I've heard of snell (spelling?) and ADR standards for track events, I believe the helmet can meet *either*. The helmet will be used for the occasional track event, as in once every 3-6 months so I don't think I need a really high quality helmet, I just want something decent. EDIT: Opinions on what a reasonable price is for a helmet would be nice as well Regards, Gareth
  8. Really? I know jump starting some cars is not safe but is this the case with Skylines?
  9. My plan is high flow panel filter (stock airbox), high flow cat (not a cheap ceramic inside cat), PowerFC and quality tune . I already have a 3inch cat-back HKS Super dragger, unsure how to check if my dump pipes are standard or not, hopefully the exhaust was done turbo's back I hope to post dyno charts up when its done, but it will be a different dyno so not as comparable
  10. From memory SydneyKid is using an industry standard on the material used, it will vary a little though but this is only a free estimation service. Are you also running the Ohlins (yellow coloured springs) on an R33 GTR? On my ohlins I had a bit of trouble working out whether it was 12mm or 13mm wire.... Rear Front Coil ID = 88/79 mm Coil ID = 90/88 mm Wire OD = 12 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns # of Coils = 7.2 turns I was measure coil ID (across the top) and found it was different each way, I'm not 100% sure if these measurements are accurate as I did them just before I put them back on the car. My estimated spring rates were 3.33kg/mm rear and 4.66kg/mm front, but they seem pretty damn solid on the road. Just curious so we can compare our rates. Regards, Gareth
  11. Lol, yes, if you explain it they will usually help you after they look at you weird But think about it....your saying I own a high performance sports car that can't pop its own fuel cap
  12. Yes, I got similar to that power on my moderately modded R33 GTR (no engine mods), but its running some Mines ECU so who knows what its tuned to. I'm making changes for more power this month The Chrysler (300C?) made my day, it was interesting a different car get on the dyno.
  13. How is 235's stretched on 9 inch wide rim? I am running 235's on my stock GTR rims and they don't look stretched. It had 245's on it before. Running 235 on a 9.5inch rim would be stretching it To the original poster, there is an interesting thread of stretching tyres somewhere in the forum, unfortunately it didn't have much debate other than about the "look" of it... Also check Wheels sizes and offsets people usually mention what they've run before it might help but you will probably find its recommended to not stretch the tyres. Regards, Gareth
  14. EDIT: My problem is with the fuel cap not popping open, the lever appears to work fine. Same problem on the R33 GTR, its weird having to ask someone to push the button for me so I can lever open the fuel thing at the petrol station with a key because its stuck again I found bending that little piece of metal that pushes the fuel cap open more inward allowed that little more force to open the fuel cap consistently. Its not a huge issue, just a minor annoyance, it still gets caught occasionally.
  15. I had a 11month importing experience, about 3 months spent finding an R33 GTR for the right price, and then about 8-9 months getting before it got rego'ed. I saw more cars with fibreglass kits over there than here, some do engine mods others don't. The low km's is easily changed before auctions with winding back the clock, do you really think someone does 3K kilometres a year? It is there daily driver over there! I'd strongly recommend buying in Aus, I got my car a few thousand cheaper (roughly) but it many ways the stress was not worth the effort. Buy locally you can't get screwed over like you do if you buy international, you have a guarantee you won't have to wait 9 months between sending the money and getting the car. Importing can be good, just choose your importer VERY carefully.
  16. Onto Ebay they go: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=190202061246 Starting at $450 get them cheap
  17. Nissan FAST will tell you the difference if you supply the VIN for someone to check it with, as well as the different diff's in the Vspec (finned in the R33's I believe). There the most obvious things, I'd say search some more on this forum to find what your looking for.
  18. Hmm, an interesting story. The only police I know that are allowed plain-clothes in a non-marked car are detectives. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Detective are unlikely to be completing traffic duties but I believe they do pull-over people occasionally. You should have asked for ID or a badge number from the officer. See ya, Gareth
  19. Actually I will likely be buying the cat from BOS importing. I'll give RE customs a call about purchase + tune on Monday. Just measured the exhaust, 10.5 inches circumference (HKS super dragger), so roughly 3.3inches (so that would be a 3inch exhaust?) Compliance cat, 8.5 inches circumference at the start of it, or 2.7inches, so probably a 2.5inch compliance cat.... Regards, Gareth
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