some_cs_student

I know someone who got defected for HID's but they were bright and on a 4WD so they were a little annoying. That and the Vicroads guy was looking for anything to defect on so if it wasn't HID's then it would probably by the windscreen washer nozzle was on the wrong angle .

Hey, I actually watched the first episode and parts of it were good but what really confused me was when he was driving around the skidpan and his ratings afterward. I thought the ratings were handling based because he knocked the big V8's for lack of handling, and even the Ferrari and complimented the Torana because he could control it with the accelerator. But then he got the 200SX through with a really quick time and pretty good handling, complimented it and got to the review and put it nearly last for that event! The rating system makes no sense to me, most of the cars are pretty impressive though.

Hi, I've been told that getting a higher flowing cat may assist in getting more power out of my R33 GTR. It currently has a largish exhaust system I think its 3inch all the way through, and standard turbo's and air intake. I've noticed that there are a few different cats around there is the X-Force Stainless steel high flow cats from Just Jap for $160 Apparently it can flow 570CFM and it comes with flanges. There is also a group buy on X-force cats and exhausts They are 2.5, 3 and 3.5 inch for the "racing" cat I'm not sure if the racing cat is a marketing name or if its race-use only and doesn't comply to the EPA regulations. And then there is the Batmbl selling catco cats There website says: The prices were: * 3" large body BOLT ON Catco cat (ceramic inside) - $230 including delivery * 3" Catco cat BOLT ON (metal inside, 5" round body **not 4" like Magic cat & Metal cat**, 200csi cell - 706.2 CFM! Which cat should I be using? Will it make much difference to performance? I'm considering the X-force from JustJap at the moment, it seems to be reasonably priced but I'd like some opinions. Also, if I get a larger cat will it make any difference to the exhaust volume at all? I assume its very little but.... Regards, Gareth

Hey, My car came with some unusual tyres from Japan, they are not correctly speed rated for a GTR on Australian roads so they were replaced during compliance. I believe they are snow tyres and look very new, plenty of tread on them. Where can I sell tyres like this? They were on the stock R33 17*9 rims, so 245/45/17 I think Regards, Gareth

Still for sale and email notification still not working PM me if your interested

Well it is pretty modified, however all the mods are cosmetic/suspension/diff/et cetera. Very little was done to the engine by the looks of it excluding a rebuild at some point

I don't know the AFR's. Yes, could be stock turbo's, I'm just been overoptimistic and hoping they're high flowed or something . I mean the guy did everything but the *engine* mods from what I can see (compliance said it was one of the most modified car they had ever seen as far as mods go but I don't know if that was true or not). Thanks for the info. The HKS unit probably has incorrect settings, there is a steering-mounted boost gauge but its hard to watch and there's no where on the street where I can reach full boost without it counting as "hooning". 156.6 AWKW, I got there at 7:45, it was so busy when I got there, I had a great night!

Ahh yes I remember, thats when I put myself in the line properly to prevent the queue jumpers getting past me Hmm, well its possible the HKS is set incorrectly, does anyone know if it keeps its settings after complete power loss? They killed the battery after importing took errr >5months. And it *thinks* it has a low setting of 0.9 and high of 1.0. But I don't know if its been through its "learning" mode for aligning the boost correctly. I'm just reading the "psi" line on the dyno graph I got. 156.6 AWKW, aftermarket exhaust (not sure if its turbo back), greddy radiator, boost controller, mines ecu (Japanese tune!), and various mods to diff / suspension mods. It had pods which I removed and its running a compliance cat and compliance air filter. I'll definitely speak to Ray or RacePace next month or the month after when I have some $$$ to spend on something like a PowerFC. The turbo's would appear to be stock, or they were set to run very low boost. Apologies for hi-jacking the thread, but is there an easy way to confirm that I have stock turbo's? Compliance advised its not possible to do this without removing the engine or similar. Regards, Gareth

A great night, thanks a lot to the organisers for the cheap dyno run and the free ignition DVD's and redbull The dis-organisation of the event was a little frustrating, I was down as the 3rd person to run and ended up about 20th or so, and I got to the front and had to let 2 feature cars go before me! Was I the only one with stock turbo's on an R33 GTR? I want to compare dyno graphs with other people who are not running lots of mods on there GTR's (r32/r33/r34) Anyway, I might be back to RE to get a PowerFC and a tune to Australian fuel, not the Japanese tune I have Oh, does anyone know how accurate the boost measurement was from the dyno? It says constant 10PSI but my HKS EVC IV says low of 0.9bar high of 1.0 bar (14.7PSI).

Front is normally much lower than the back so get someone else out there with you and practice the angle. Take it really gentle until you have one front wheel and one rear wheel up on it. My driveway looks much steeper than that, I take 3-4 turns and drive up the nature strip to make it in . Someone has made it in once without scraping it with 1 or 2 turns, I've never been able to repeat it without scratching my front bar. And I'm 11.5 or 12.5cm off the ground (roughly) on the front bar and you have to use angle at some petrol stations to get in. If you go below 10cm at any point its a defect so I'd be careful, that and you will have so much trouble at some peterol stations and other places that you will fear all driveways/speedhumps Personally I reverse in but I think your driveway might be easier going forwards.

Still available...make offers

Personally I like the stock GTR kit, especially series 3. Except the lower lip is way too overpriced. I also like my kit as well Does anyone know what this kit is? It looks a little like a 400R front bar without the N1 vents but the lower lip looks different. Are the side-skirts 400R? And its got rear pods too...

Hey, I bought myself one from this old groupbuy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...ies-t62252.html Works great in the GTR, never had a problem with it. It has some info on what kind of battery it is there... Regards Gareth

As per the other thread I'll be down there, to find out how much awkw my car is running. The mods are well...not completely known . Hopefully I'm making some decent power.

So are factory R33 GTR (series 3) xenons illegal? Or are they classified under a different ADR compared to HID's? And the R34 xenon headlights...

Excellent, and its a 4WD dyno, can't wait . P.S. Your website is a little broken (RHS links don't work for me). And its comes up as "Sample4" in google (search for re customs) Anyway, I'll try and turn up on time on Friday.

Does anyone happen to know how much track days cost (approx)? Like this one: SAU Vic Track Club Championship - Phillip Island... Need to work out what I can afford

Hi Matt, so the runs start at 7:30, do we need to book in or just turn up? I assume everyone is welcome to have a dyno run? I have a close to stock R33 GTR but would like to see what power its putting out.

Hehe, we stripped a socket (not the bolt!) trying to remove the diff bolts. We were using a large jack handle as an extension Did you replace the CV yourself or did someone do it for you? Where did you buy the CV from? I've seen the ones on Ebay but nowhere else, just search for "r33 cv joint" Regards, Gareth

The main difference with the R33 GTR is the series. In my personal opinion, I didn't like series 1, and going series 2 which added 2-3K in price, and 2K in the redbook at the time I checked about 10months ago, series 3 which has the zenon lights et cetera costs another 2K on top of the series 2 unless you get lucky Series 2 has thinner lights, different steering wheel and I think the bonnet is slightly different for the lights, and the front bar is slightly different. Series 3 has a different lower lip compared to series 2, one reverse light one rear fog light, newer gearbox syncro's, and red-stitching on the seats and steering wheel. Although the chance of getting an original lower lip is incredibly low since they sit low and break easy (and cost a fortune to replace). There is also the V-spec difference which you can lookup anywhere, active LSD vs the normal GTR's mechanical, disadvantage is the active LSD is very hard to rebuild. However prices have dropped by a huge amount, I've seen a series 1.5 for 20K on these forums so they money you have is enough. Check the forums, carpoint and carsales if your looking. Yes, plenty of cars for sale, I disagree with the suspension costs 4-5K. You can buy my low km R34 suspension for $600 and install them for a few hundred . Or you can look at the group buy for Bilsteins for about 1K by SydneyKid, and installation isn't that expensive unless you do more than just struts. Turbo's can die, 4-5K is some good turbos with installation and you'd probably want a power FC to go with it (+1K?)

Thanks Duncan, appreciated as always . What kind of shop do I need to take it to? Do normal mechanics do this kind of work or is it specialist?

Still available, drop me an email if interested.

I *believe* I have an OS Giken twin plate clutch, it has a very small slipping point and groans and rattles IF you take off with low revs or attempt to slip it. Give it a little power when your just near the friction point (ie. something like 1200-1500RPM) and then let it out fairly quickly and its nearly silent. Ie. don't try to slip it too much. Last time I tried to drive a normal car I couldn't feel the clutch too well, so I think I might be used to it now. Although, as others said you may have a triple plate which are said to be much harder.

The diff has been removed at least twice now, its been rebuilt and I don't think its the problem . However, the half shaft if pushed by hand with some force makes a soft "clunk" when the car is jacked up. When driving its obviously a lot louder and I've read threads about other people complaining about similar noises, I was hoping it was the same issue and other people had fixed it before . Oh, and GTR diffs are mechanical

Hey Sydneykid, Do you happen to know what stock R34 GTR (or R33 GTR) spring rates are? I've been told R33 GTR and R34 GTR standard springs are the same. Just curious so I can compare the rates to my ohlins (in an R33 GTR) Ahh found this post that you had posted earlier in the thread: And on this one: My car currently has a bodykit so its waaay above 355/345 to be legal. Also, I thought the rear-end would be higher? Is that wrong? I think my car is 370mm/375mm, to keep just over 12cm off the ground on the front bar (may be a little less), I just want to stay about the 10cm legal height in Vic . It may also have aftermarket front guards, I'm not sure (they feel like there made of fiberglass). The car looks like its sitting evenly (as in start and the end of the sideskirts) and seems to handle pretty well but I've only done one advanced driving course, not enough hard driving to know for sure. Regards, Gareth