HuH

I'm looking forward to this. Forums are always more fun once you've met some of the members in person. Should probably give my car the once over with a hose too, huh?

Woo! I got spotted. It's taken a while.. You would've seen me in sweet 'burnout spec' with the stocker wheel on the back. Haha. I must've looked like such a bogan for the last couple of days. Back to normal now. Exactly..

Damn - there's some high quality workmanship going into this. I reckon it'd look awesome if you left it without the big GTR wing and just put a little lip spoiler or something instead. It does take away from the GTR thing, but it'd look hot.

When you get the grille you also need the clips that attach to the headlights to hold the grille in place. Don't forget those.

I'm not questioning your theory, I just want to know what's causing it, as it isn't springs in my case. I explained in my first post that I have swapped the shocks and springs over but the drivers side is still sagging lower than the passenger side. My question is, what causes this as it cannot be the springs themselves.

What time? Could've been me but my plates are different. Mine are [RR3322]. Parked out the front or driving past? I went past at about 7:30.

Yeah those widths are fat but they won't fill the guards with that offset. No worries though, just run spacers and you'll be sweet. More width is even more $$ on tyres. Some 20mm spacers might do the trick? EDIT: I just re-read your post above about the 18x11 wheels that were an inch too wide with an offset of -19 (!!!). In that case you'll need bigger spacers than 20mm! Those guards obviously flare more than they look to me in the pics.

Fair enough that some of you do drive your cars in a way that actually makes use of a spoiler, however, is a GT wing really what you have to have? I remember reading that the tiny little ducktail wings you see on the BMW M3 provide some massive amount of downforce just from that little bit of well engineered placement. These huge (and in my opinion, ugly) wings really aren't that necessary unless you're talking about humungous speeds.

Wish I could help mate, but I don't know the answer - sorry. I just wanted to quote this because it's awesome: That's the spirit you mad man.

The car in that 'Tree Of Fail' pic is properly boned. That's some epic smash, right there. I can't even tell what it was? Sorry for the off topic..

Sorry I didn't say hello on Saturday while I was hanging around. Seemed a strange thing as I didn't know which of you were actually the owners and which were just tag alongs. I did watch Paul and Yidz have a "rev-off" while I was there. Not sure what the point of it was, though? For my money the victory went to Paul - sorry Christian.

Damn ricer.

Would be good to get pictures back again.

Yep, go for that little stealthy d-wing around the lip of the boot. Looks hot. Don't do the big GT wing - they're ugly and ricer style. Spend the money on lowering your car a bit and some new wheels.

Hah. There is a tube that screws into the plastic surround for the DIN slots on your centre console. It attaches behind a little grille bit just up and to the right of the gear stick. That's a temp sensor. Check that one out, I reckon you either haven't hooked that up or it's not there at all.

Oh, I had no idea you were in Canada. Should've read the whole post. Surely you can do better than sourcing from the other side of the world? None available in the US? They're odd shaped items so shipping will likely be pricey from all distributors this side of the globe.

Damn you're going to shred the inner side of those fronts with camber that aggressive. Handling will be off the hook though!

This is such a lame thing to get stuck on, but I cannot for the life of me see how you get the fog light lamp out of the front bar to be able to change the globe. This is for an R32 GTS-t with Type M front bar and fog lights. Surely I don't have to remove the whole front bar to get to them?

Just got some new wheels and fitted up some Kumho Ecsta KU31 tyres on all 4. 255/35/18 on the back and 235/40/18 on the front. I paid $190 rear and $150 front each fitted and balanced. Good prices and great tyres - very happy with them. If anyone in Sydney is interested, go get them from Tempe Tyres. They don't just do 24" chromies on 4x4s, they'll cater for whoever and they're real efficient too.

Just take a look under the rear of the car. You won't even need to jack it up to be able to see the lower mounts. That one on the left in the pics will be the rear and the one on the right will be the front.

Yup get in touch with a member on here called sydneykid. Good guy that's been doing group buys/distro for the past few years. He's super busy and his PM inbox may be full, but just keep trying and it'll get through. There are threads in the For Sale (Group Buys) forum as well, so you can post there too.

Over the last few days I've been having a good fiddle with my suspension setup trying to get the car lower and balanced. Basically what I've got are standard springs and Bilstein adjustable shocks. The spring seats were on the higher of the two circlip grooves, so I took the shocks out and moved the circlip down to lower the car that little bit. For my first time, it was a seriously annoying process. Eventually I got it all done. I noticed then that the driver's side was sitting lower than the passenger side. I know that this sag does happen over the life of a car (and mine is 16 years old) so I thought what I'd do is switch the sides over to get it closer to balanced when my body weight is on the driver's side. So I pulled all the shocks out, and made double triple sure that they were matching heights, and swapped them over. Anyway, finished that and measured it up again and the driver's side is still sitting lower than the passenger side by about 10-15mm or so at the front (rears are almost identical). What else can cause this sag? Worn bushes? Something else? Would love any help. Ideally I'd love to get the passenger side sitting down as low as the driver's, but if it's something that's worn then obviously that won't work.

Mm 255s look hot on the back (like mine). I'm interested to see how you'll get 255s under the front guards - it'll be a challenge! I've got 235s on 18x8.5 +30 at the front and that's a perfect fit.

Damn. So I spent nearly 10 hours on the car trying to get this job done today. What a massive pain in the arse. You were right about the rear shocks - very easy to remove. Well, at least one side was. The driver's side is proving to be a real pain, with the base of the shock being secured so tightly, I'm going to need to get a pro to loosen it with a rattle gun. The other side was a piece of cake - strut out, circlip moved, strut back in and fasten in about 20 mins. The fronts however, were an entirely different story. To get the thing adjusted I had to remove the struts and take the whole spring off the shock and then hit the seat of the spring with a hammer to get it off the circlip before it could be moved. Then compressing the spring to get it back on the shock is a real damn hard job when the compressors are too short to reach over the whole thing, and they suck balls anyway and just bend. I ended up using giant clamps to get it done. It took hours and hours to do both fronts, as I've never done it before and didn't really know what I was doing. I do have one question: at the top of the struts in the front, there was what looked like a red gasket between the underside of the mounting to the car body itself, and the top of the strut when it bolts in. The gasket had become really brittle and cracked, so I pulled it off on both sides and just put the suspension back in. Do I need to replace that gasket? Thanks.

Alright, I'll take another look today and give it a go. Thanks mate. I'll update after this next attempt.