spudtatoe

Finally got a muffler for the stagea after 2 months of not having any rear muffler lol, got this for $100 on trademe, I hawk trademe everyday and this was probably on it for a couple of hours with quite a bit of interest... the hangers looked off from the photos so I asked questions and kinda came to the self guess that it was probably from an S2 stag or a turbo stag, probably without a tow bar due to the hanger placement. Even with being slightly skeptical that it wouldn't fit I bought it, if I couldn't use it, nobody could use it!! lol. I knew the bend was correct and I could always get the hangers fixed, and for $100 what could go wrong! Okay so it kinda fits weird with the hangers, because I could only attach one due to the tow bar I just kinda used some force and used the unused hanger as a point to hold it into a better place so it didn't look as shit So it kinda sits too low and too far out for my liking but its fine for now

NZ - Auckland/Waikato Stagea meet 2/9/17 Was gonna post this in the North island forum but its stagea only related so not too sure - mod/admin feel free to move/delete. It's time again for a stagea meet, Date: 2nd September 2017 Time: 1:30PM Location: BP/McDonalds Bombay - https://goo.gl/maps/5eZtdsGk1mA2 Facebook Event: https://www.facebook.com/events/258243801335658/ Depending on how many people turn up we will most likely go on a cruise to somewhere As all ways, would be awesome to see some stageas and meet new people! Cheers

I see you have two PNM35s, have you tried swapping the AFM from the other one to this?

Don't suppose anyone has found any LEDs that fit and are easily bought? It looks like the backlight and the button twist lock holders are the same size at the base, so would that mean its interchangeable? Was thinking if thats correct that I could buy some T5 Twist lock LEDs that are short in height and then hope that they fit behind the buttons?

The correct brake rotors/pads for WGNC34 Series 1/1.5 RB25 non turbo Hi all, TL;DR for all you people who cbf reading lol --------------------------------------------------------------------- Front rotor (Partstop) - DBA914 - Maxima A32/G30 Diameter: 280MM Thickness: 26/24MM Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM? Front pads (Repco) - D81305RCT Rear pads (Repco) - D81144RCT --------------------------------------------------------------------- There isn't much info on 25DE Neo 4WD stageas as you aussies don't get them, but here across the ditch in NZ we do. So I super struggled with what rotors to get. So i've gone to get new rotors (front and rear). The rears they couldn't help me at all and said they would call a supplier and get back to me. I have a 1998 25DE Series 1.5 stagea. As you do, you go to repco, I gave them my rego, they searched up the car and bought up all of the listings for the DE 4WD and I made sure it was the correct one, they said yup and gave me all the different rotors (all the same in size). The rotor they ended up giving me was a S14 200SX Turbo/300ZX Twin Turbo rotor, I didn't notice what it was for until I tried to fit the caliper over and then looked at the box. So I went back the following day and they confirmed that it was correct for stagea, the only thing I can think of now that could have been the issue is that because mine is a 1998 where they had both S1 and S2 released it was bringing up S2 listings which have bigger brakes at the front (for turbo 4WD anyway) It makes me wonder whether if I suggested a 1996/1997 model it would give the correct rotor size.. almost makes me want to go in and find out. Here is the difference between the incorrect rotor and my old rotor, you can see the height is onl off by 4 or so MM. So I returned the incorrect rotors and got my money back, they were roughly $250 on sale (30% off). Repco provided me with the correct part number DBA914, but they had none in stock. I cant remember how we got to that part number but other than that they couldn't help me any more than that. Although they did have slotted ones at $450 a pair (I obviously declined lol). They then suggested going to Autostop with that part number, luckily Autostop had both in stock for $54.10 each. I then tried my luck and asked if they had rear rotors and to my disbelief they had some that was listed for the stagea and yes, yes they fitted For the fronts, its super easy, i'm sure if you are looking for the parts yourself then you will most likely be doing the brakes so you probably already know how, but, if you dont I highly suggest watching ChrisFix video here on how to do your brakes. The incorrect rotors repco gave me was 30/28, thus being too thick for the caliper and new pads to fit over. Every other dimension was fine, just the thickness was incorrect. The new front rotors fit on perfectly, but the front right was making a clunking noise when I let off the brake pedal, this went away after probably 5 quick brakes. Doing the rear brakes is exactly the same as the front. Just make sure that your hand brake is off and the car wont be able to move before you go trying to hit off the old rotor and could potentially damage the drum brake. If you're lucky like I was, you may have screw holes where you can screw a screw in which helps remove the rotor if its rusted on like mine were lol. The new rear rotors do NOT have these screw holes, but the fronts DO. Had the same weird clunking sound coming from the rear right after fitting the new rotors and pads (could have been left as well for front and rear times) but from the drivers seat with the window down it sounded rear right, so while I still had the car in reverse I just went on the brakes/off the brakes about 10 times again and the clunking sound stopped, it did get quiter the more I did it too. So I'm not too sure whats causing that to be honest. I'm unsure of the thickness on the rear rotors, but by the looks of it, if you're asking for this rotor its gonna fit. Right, so, you should be careful when you're going to Repco looking for brake rotors as they don't have correct listings (for me anyway) But if you want 100% certainty go to Partstop as they have both rear and front rotors. So, here are the parts that worked for my stagea. These are also just your standard rotors, not slotted or drilled. Front rotor (Partstop) - DBA914 - Maxima A32/G30 Diameter: 280MM Thickness: 26/24MM Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM? Front pads (Repco) - D81305RCT Rear pads (Repco) - D1144RCT So hopefully if you're looking this post will pop up and these will be correct for you and save all the hassle of getting wrong items!

Okay so last month-ish I started getting a clicking from the front right wheel, determined it to be the CV Joint. Can't remember if I had mentioned it above. I put up with it for a while as it would only click when you're giving gas so I just took corners slowly. As that month had progressed up to last week when I was going around a large busy roundabout I had to give it a bit of gas, and it was a kinda tight turn but the cv clicked away then it just locked in and I think the wheel was dragging along and no longer spinning but it didn't feel right. So it kinda put me off driving it a bit, so I decided to take out my front shaft to release the load on the CVs For everyone that says its a 5 minute process can walk right out. Might be if you've done it before and it went smoothly. But for me it took just about 3 hours. In the next few weeks I will be purchasing both front CV Joints along with all four boots as they are split both sides. I just need to find the part number or a shop selling them. Along with doing the CV I will also be doing the panel beating and getting the door sprayed. I will try go to Apache Panel beaters as suggested by @KiwiRS4T. And if I have any spare money I will be looking to upgrade the brakes. Exhaust will also be on the list, thinking about replacing the cat with a res and then have a straight pipe with a decent muffler at the end. Will just need to find a resonably priced shop/person to do so for me. Some could say it's a waste of money doing this all on a DE stagea, well it probably is, but I enjoy the car and am planning on keeping it for a while. May turbo it further down the road when funds agree. This is the CV Joint which has definitely seen better days. Okay, shaft time. Got the 4 bolts off releasing the front diff side, I just had to shake it and pry it gently away. Honestly the next part here was what took this process a long time, the metal cover as such was hitting the auto gear selector cable, but it was a metal bracket that it was getting stuck against. I tried pulling it, twisting it, everything you can think of, it jst wasn't going anywhere. I was getting quite fed up at this point and was getting ready to throw things Well I finally got it out after using my breaker bar wedged between the subframe and shield thing on the shaft. Was a real PITA and am not looking forward to putting it back in, mind you it probably would have been a lot easier if I had access to a hoist or such.

Hey, Once you remove the screws underneath the center console storage that should lift up. Then you will be able to unscrew/pop out the cup holders for the rear seats.

I don't get email notifactions or notifacations on the app (iOS) anymore. And I still have the popup saying "Emails that we send to you are being returned to us. If our emails continue to bounce, we will stop sending emails to you and require you to update your email address."

I have the tweeters that came with the previous setup, but then I have some fusion ones that i'm considering putting in as my front door speakers are component. I definitely would have done soldering, and should have. Would probably have been cheaper too lol, it cost about $38 for the connectors and $33 for the stripper/crimp tool. I got a decent heat gun for when I was going to paint my headlights.. I still haven't got around to doing that haha

Aight, today I fixed up all of the wiring I've done on the car, which is just the tail lights and the radio wiring. We'll start off with the first thing I did, the tail lights. I've had the tail lights installed for well over 6 months now but the wires were only ever twisted together. And for the trailer wiring I just cut away at some of the wire then had just twisted and taped the trailer wire to it, which was super dodgy and would be 50/50 chance of it working lol. You can see here that I've done the indicator wiring I think? I've used the wire tap blocks for the trailer wiring which were quite good. Then I've used wire joiners for the indicator bulbs for the tail lights And then here you can just see all of the wiring fixed, this was kinda done to the best of my abilities lol. If I had the equipment like a soldering iron etc I would've used that though. That's it for the tail lights and trailer wiring. I verified that the trailer wiring works by using a test light. Now I moved onto the radio which took about 2 and a half hours max. I went into this job not really trying to achieve anything other than making the wiring more safe I guess, rather than the wires being taped together lol. Previously I had been using a piece of wire going from the antenna on the back of the headunit running up along to the side of the dash. Worked average in the beginning and over time it just got worse and worse to the point where I stopped using the radio and stuck to Bluetooth. I was at the point where I didn't really care about the radio and was just going to put up with using Bluetooth. So I took the centre console apart... nice wiring mess haha Along with some dirt n shit that I never cleaned out last time. I have my best shot with a vacuum and cleaned up what I could in there but it's certainly still not nice looking. You can see here in this next photo that the wires were just taped together and some had already come undone.. the previous bullet connectors were for tweeters that were still plugged into the front speaker ports, meaning that the speakers I installed into the front doors weren't even being used lol. So I started making all the wiring look nice nice and put the bullet connectors on. Now I just went and bought a pack of different connectors from super cheap. I definitely wouldn't recommend buying them for anything other than what I've done here, probably not even that. They're real shit plastic things that don't even really work that well lol. And now after taking out all the wiring you can see here that I've got 2 wires left over, can anyone shed some light on what the wires are for? Currently they are just left as is and have been for the last 8 months so I presume it's old wiring or something. This next bit kinda peeved me off a bit, whether it was me 8 months ago when I hacked in this radio or whether it was the previous owner(s). The previous owner I got the car off did tell me when I test drove it that the radio was wired in and shouldn't be too hard to do. So I'm not sure whether I cut the wire or they did, I'm sure if it was me I wouldn't have been stupid enough to cut it so far down... (Blue wire) I didn't really have much clue on what to do about the wire, I knew by the end of the night I would have it connected to the blue wire coming from the head unit and I knew it was for the antenna (I didn't think the wire even worked because I swear I tried connecting it to the yellow wire for constant power 8 months ago, but it would've been from the wrong end lol) So yup, I took the pin out and added a connector to the end of it, if the radio ever stops working one day I'm gonna guess this gave in haha. And here is the wiring harness all sorted out with connectors going to the right places And now everything's back together!! I tested it out and the radio wouldn't turn on, 99% chance it's always gonna be the earth which it was. I had wired the earth from the head unit to the factory Nissan plug which didn't even have anything come out into the harness that goes deep into the cars heart haha. Don't worry the interior and centre console went all back together until it was working 100% So now I've got a working bloody radio!! After 8 months or the whole time I've owned the car I can now listen to crystal clear radio!!! I was so stoked on having it working. Here's all of the old wiring that I've pulled out that went nowhere or just got removed, a lot of it is from the tweeters that sat on the dash which I removed. Anyway thanks for reading lmao

Probably due an update lol, Don't really have much to update on, I put on the sideskirts that no longer fit nicely lol. Stagea meet was a blast, i've now got some plans for this car... Here are some photos from the stagea meet, mine of course wasn't washed because the Wash World was fully packed with a certain type of people in their Commys and straight piped pulsars ^_^ In the future id love to find a turbo sunroof model, strip it back, rust repair and then paint it some sort of pearl purple/blue... wishful thinking and should probably just sort out this one first. Last thing; does anyone know anyone parting out a WK1 stagea (Pearl white with silver strip) who has a right hand rear door for sale! Anywhere in NZ i'll find a way to get it whether that be drive to the south island or drive just down the road. ive been looking for 4 months now and still can't find a door, you'd think white would be the easiest colour to get panels for but its seriously not.

Meet is this saturday guys! I'm going to be at the Wash world in manukau next to the repco and BP at around 2:15PM. A few others might meet there, then after that we will head to the meet location for 4PM. Would be cool to see as many Stags as possible! Thx

Location has been changed to the Ford HQ/bnz kinda carpark thing in Highbrook. Mission Bay was probs gonna be a pain. And if you want pre meet at the Wash World in Manukau next to the BP. Cheers

Yeah my guess would've been it was sucking the power, glad you got it sorted.

Oh thats wicked, i'll try remember to tell the host to message him. Will we see you there?

Yeah, would've been cool to see your stag

NZ - Auckland Stagea Meet 27th May Was gonna post this in the North island forum but its stagea only related so not too sure - mod/admin feel free to move/delete. Just in case any of you aren't on Facebook and are in the NZ and want to come It will be on May 27th, 4pm at Mission Bay. Would be cool to see some stageas there. Heres the facebook event link - https://www.facebook.com/events/1433071343433371/

Thanks heaps

Okay got that awesome news haha. Cars running awesome, done about 150kms so far and hasn't missed a beat. I also just passed my licence so I can now drive on my own

Okay, so.. this is a little bit kinda big update lol. So after fixing the fuel gauge, I went out for the maiden voyage as such feeling that the car was all fixed and running perfectly. Ha. 200m down the road I stopped to give way at a roundabout... too bad the car didn't wanna leave the roundabout. It completely stalled out on me leaving me thinking that the flathead screw driver piece in the fuel lines... I spent the whole of the following Tuesday taking off all the return fuel lines trying to find the bloody thing. Probably spent about 4 hours trying to find it. I could not for the life of me find the thing, and it wouldn't have been able to get into the metal lines due to size so I was confused. I had looked around the top of the tank thing where it screws in, and I couldn't find it there the other day. But I decided I'd take one more look before calling my uncle lol. Well... there's the fkn screwdriver piece... So then why the balls is the car stalling out on me? I put it all back together and called my mate over to take it for a drive, he drove it pretty hard and it didn't cut out on him nor did he feel anything wrong with it. I thought it must have just been a random fluke and maybe there was air or something in the lines I'm not too sure. So with me being confident that it was fixed I went for a drive that night. Only to fkn stall out again only 50m from my house... I was trying to figure out why it stalled out at night but not during the day, both times the only difference between the times it stalled and when it was fine was that it was night time and the headlights were on. So I started checking the battery and electrics thinking it could have been that, was getting fine readings for all mock situations I put it in. Not thinking about doing the CEL test with the paper clip I did that... code 12.... afm... wtf. So I bought another AFM the next day and picked it up. Put it in, went for a drive at night with headlights on, was fine. Cool. Now the old AFM is on the left and the new one on the right. Notice any differences? The sealant maybe? This lead me to believe that my one had been opened and repaired at some point in its life and was back to haunt again. So on my one drive I've done hopefully my problem is fixed... I just seem to be away every time I need to drive or fix the car. And on another note when I was pushing my car someone.. unfortunately me... curbed my wheel... Okay that's it for me hopefully until Wednesday! Then hopefully I'll have some good news to share lol

Hey, last night I picked up another AFM. I chucked that in and went for a 5 or so minute drive in the same conditions as when it cut out both times (night with headlights on etc) Changing the AFM seems to have fixed it which is awesome. It seems as though the AFM that was in the car before had been opened at some point and resoldered as the sealant wasn't factory. New AFM is on the right (new to me lol)

Okay, so I checked battery. 12.38 car off, 14.28 car on. All sweet. Thought I'd give getting fault codes a go. Think I did it correctly, got code 12 which I believe means AFM. Guess I'm on a hunt for a new AFM, kinda weird how it works some times and not others and maybe it's not even linked to lights but just random? Here is a video of the code, 1 short and 2 fast? 12?

As far as I can see it only has issues with headlights on, BUT After managing to get the car home, I left it for about an hour and I just went to turn it on, it started, revs fluctuated and then the car died (no headlights, radio or aircon etc) I started it up again and it's idling fine and fine when revving, tried different situations with lights on, full beam, aircon, radio etc and it had no issue staying on or starting. I'll try the multimeter in about an hour to give it the same amount of time I did before. I'll see what it's reading when off and what it's reading when the cars on. Don't have another battery easily accessible but I'll try clean the terminals and check them as well.

Okay tides have changed. Went for a drive and the car made it 200m before loosing power and stalling. The only difference between the two drives is that the headlights were on when it stalled. I'm thinking alternator or battery. Here's a video of it cutting out, doesn't matter if it's in reverse or drive still cuts out the second you take your foot off the brake.

Ok I'm not too sure what's wrong with it. The car got driven about 3 times the distance with no issues at all about 20 minutes ago. I'll go for another drive later on tonight and see what it's like then. If it drives fine, well, I don't know what went wrong If it breaks down again I'm gonna go back into the tank. Thanks for your help Duncan!