SLVRBAKSLPZ

Finally installed

Gotta drill holes then install. Remove the rubber pads off the clutch/brake pedals. Line up and use the countersunk hole off your new pedal for pilot hole references. Do the same for the gas pedal. Fairly easy I got new pedals from Performance Pedals. They have a universal installation guide which will be similar.

I just took leads from the ignition 12v/charge light and ran them to the factory bulb. I just tucked the bulb near the blinker relay

I replaced my lenses on my 33 with Behrman's. They are clear and fit like OEM. you shouldn't have issues

I personally didn't have issue with this. The parking light chime came on w/o the OEM cluster plugged in. May be an issue only for the R34s Additionally, I ran leads from the charge wire and ignition +12v to the factory bulb. I just bent the small leads off the bulb and wrapped the wires around them. I then just taped it all together. Its just dangling near the blinker relay. It's a temp fix that I'm sure will be permanent after I forget about it.

Will Do! Still waiting on the cluster surround from 3D Race Solutions. It will get delivered next week. I'll take some proper snaps once my interior is all buttoned up.

I got my IC-7 hooked up. Fuel Level and the speedo are now GTG. The Haltech fuel sender conditioner is easy to setup. just need to get the voltage for empty/full and plug it in the the ECU. I ended up using the SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface w/bluetooth. Easy to install once I figured out the wire color of the speed sender wires. The Dakota Digital app is alot easier to use then on the module. Just calibrate while using a GPS speedo app. There are seven different setups for the speedo. #6 is what is used. Once I got the speed set the gear indicator/ ODO/ trip on the IC-7 moved properly as well. I installed a fresh speedo sender as well. You can also use the Haltech GPS module, but its not for use with the Platinum Pro software unless you wire in a pull-down resistor off the DPI input. Hi-Beam / turn signals / E-brake are gtg as well. I will wire up a new oil pressure sensor at a later date.

I looked again with good light and the Wires are Y/P and R/Gray. They go into pins 15 and 17 on the plug B. Pin 16 Y/Green go to pin 53 on the ECU loom.

Ok looks like I need an aftermarket reluctor to set the speed properly as it changes the signal to digital. I think I will buy the Dakota Digital one and see how it works. The fuel sender reqs a fuels sender filter so the gauge reads properly. The GPS uses the DPI input on the Haltech Aux harness

Yeah, that may be the big issue by not having the 2nd pin. I suck at reading wiring diagrams to figure it out 🤔

On the r34 gtt diagram pin 29 and 58 are VSS. 58 looks to be for autos

OK for the R33, 7 is the Tacho speed signal and 53 is the vehicle speed sensor. is the tac signal the 2nd pin? that the only other pin i assume get spliced

Ok. I will try to mess with this over the weekend. I will still install the GPS just in case I have troubles. So re-wire directly to the ECU, one wire to VSS pin 53 and one to 12v power on the ECU

Copy. So just the signal to the proper pin (53 on R33) at the ECU then ground (any ground)? Does the R34 VSS go to the dash first like the R33? I may try this and see what happens. I really didn't want to GPS module for the possibility of it dropping out.

I have my IC-7 installed and I can confirm the interior lighting works w/o original dash The IC-7 can display the battery voltage/set alarms so there's no need to wire for the light

I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.

Im sorry. seems all the pictures on Google are already scribbled on. But basically the long green line needs to get routed to the plenum where the short ones goes into, correct? It looks like I can reach that line and re-route w/o pulling the plenum.

Is this accurate on how to modify the plumbing? Port 1 vent to Atmosphere // Wastegate to port 2 // Direct from plenum to port 3

So replace the stock one with an automotive MAC Valve. As its Provisioned for PWM it will work intended with the Haltech ECU, correct? also, will using the same plumbing/wiring be an issue?

I'm in the US, so I'm unable to check. My broker should get back to me in a day or 2 with the info. I was curious if there were wheel guru's on here to help. They do look like a mid to late 90's wheel, quite possibly Works. Haven't seen anything similar though.

As the title says. Just bought the car and I'm curious of the brand of wheel. Waiting on my broker to get back to me on them, but seeing if anyone on here knows. Thanks

How does the voltage hold with the larger alternators? Is there a negative difference with the alternator size upgrade, that would require the "big 3" wiring setup? I doubt 140A would have an issue, but 200A+ may strain the stock wiring.

Do you know of any conversion looms to use LS2/3 alternators with the RB factory connector?

Just here to spread some additional info on the Quest alternator upgrade. Going through some files and found this info again, so i figured I post it. I don't post much on forums, but I hope this info helps someone. This Alternator was fitted on the 3.3L (VG33E) engines. 1996–2000 Nissan Pathfinder 1996–2004 Nissan Pathfinder In Australian Models 1997–2000 Infiniti QX4 1999–2004 Nissan Frontier 2000–2004 Nissan Xterra 1997–2002 Nissan Elgrand 1999–2002 Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager 1999–2004 Nissan Paladin So in case the Quest specific alternators are hard to find, there are other options. Anyone looking for a high output alternators, companies such as Mechman and DCPowerInc makes 250+ amp ones for the VG33E. It will definitely suit people who have demanding systems. They're a bit pricey, but You surely won't have any power issues. DCPower also makes a RB specific 180amp alternator seen HERE.

Lol that's ok. I've seen the connection all over Google images, just not with a specific name. I'm doing a quad projector setup. Making sure, I have my connectors right, for the splitters.