joshuaho96

Another thing to consider when it comes to piston choice is that most of the forged piston options out there are made for like 1000+ whp which means they have fairly short lifespans in street use. They call for fairly large cold clearances which means a lot of blowby and piston slap when cold which means you really have to baby the engine when it's cold with proper warmup. It may even slap when warm if you're just driving on the street. You will also have to compensate in your knock control because the piston slap generates a ton of additional noise on the knock sensors. So there is definitely a significant downside to overbuilding your engine for the intended application. There's no free lunch and it will really suck to buy the wrong parts for your intended application. IMO if I had the engine apart my biggest goal would be to do things like oil pump gears, appropriate head restrictor, crankcase ventilation, baffle plates, etc. Stuff that isn't necessarily expensive but requires tearing deep into the engine to do.

I sent my stuff in to someone more experienced for them to do the entire restoration of the ITBs/manifold. Too much headache for me when I don't have a press or anything at home.

Headlights are very complicated parts, reproducing a series 3 headlight properly is basically impossible without the OEM molds which are likely gone now.

All I can tell you is that I know people that got past G&K without a fully stock RB. A turbo is just an air compressor driven by a pinwheel in the exhaust.

Your logs indicated some kind of electrical issue visible to the ECU so it’s very possible yes.

You could contact JK Technologies in Baltimore, they might be certified. At any rate I really don’t know why you’re trying to get approval from G&K. I am not at all surprised that their response to you was just digging their heels in. Super normal for them. It’s really not that hard to get an otherwise stock R33 with R1 turbos and minor exhaust changes to pass as-is. It’s not like you’re trying to get something with drag cams to pass. You cannot even tell what turbos are on the car without removing the heat shields. I would just use the stock tune as mentioned and run low boost.

Honestly I think the problem there is entirely whether George feels like answering you. My experience is years and years ago he was curious about the idea of testing out HKS VCAM on these cars to try and extract better emissions, but he made it clear that anything deviating from what he knows how to do would be more time + money that the customer would be on the hook for. Like I said before the R1 turbos are fine, the real question mark is the ECU tune.

If you have a catalytic converter you're going to melt it if you keep running it rich like that. Also you're just wasting fuel for no real reason. The factory ECU idles a touch lean I believe and cruises at lambda 1 until you hit boost.

I'm not going to pretend I'm some expert here and without your ECU map in addition to the logs it's hard to figure out exactly what the ECU is "thinking" when certain things occur. At 4:09 in this log I think what I'm seeing is bad transient throttle mapping, there's a sharp lean-out followed by a sudden rush of fuel too late as it enriches. That is purely in the synchronous fuel enrichment tables. The one time you do a bit of a pull to 3500 RPM at 7:53 in the log goes pretty rich, 0.8 lambda when it commands 0.91 lambda. I'm not sure if it should be that rich and it goes very rich too, seemingly just from the 23-26 percent TPS percent change. I'm also not sure why the target AFR is 0.97 lambda almost everywhere. If you want lambda 1 you should be setting that in the target AFR tables. Also I think your after-start enrichment when the coolant temp is warm seems really extreme, you're at like 0.75 lambda at idle which is just a ton of fuel to be dumping for a warm start. I think this picture sums up the issue pretty well, I think: Also, why is ignition timing -27 degrees at 6:20? Something seems broken there, likely an electrical fault. Your ignition timing maybe looks fine, I have the OEM timing and fuel tables but it's really hard to translate it to a kPa load, I'd need to know the actual cylinder filling based upon that load which is not truly linear. There might be a bit more timing in there but without more testing it's kind of hard to say. The other thing is that I notice you don't have DFCO enabled. Once you get map development figured out I would start using it so your fuel economy gets a lot better. Honestly speaking your situation is one I'm hoping to avoid in my own tuning, my current plan is to use MAF-based tuning in Haltech's ECU tuning setup to hopefully be able to replicate the OEM maps so the car is driving properly from the start and I can go from there. If you still have the MAF sensors and your setup is mostly OEM then I might be able to help you get going. I'm not a professional tuner though, strong emphasis on this basically being "blind leading the blind". I can only help with getting your base map into a better place, it's no replacement for actually getting a dyno tune to optimize ignition timing/AFR at higher RPMs. The big unknown I need to figure out myself is transients, with MAFs it's much harder compared to the MAP/TPS blend you see in the Haltech base map.

There's really no point in bothering him about it, I don't even know if he knows what those turbos are. If you insist on having the discussion tell him it's an R34 N1 turbo which is basically a direct bolt-on give or take an oil feed banjo bolt. Keep in mind that the Nissan US catalog is not exhaustive, any part that is not shared with any US model car won't be available through most dealers. I'm currently dealing with a "fun" problem in which the intake plenum dowels are listed in the US dealer catalog but they're restricted to GT-R VINs only and the dealer was very confused by my VIN. I use PartsForNissan for any chassis-specific parts if I'm not in a rush to get the part or if it's available through their stock. If I need a part right away only stocked by Nissan Japan the fastest method is Amayama or Terra Firma. Both are expensive, but sometimes there is literally no other option. If you're going to be in the SF Bay Area let me know, I can plug in my Consult cable and take some logs of the ECU to verify that it'll be safe to run at least for G&K. It doesn't provide a ton of data compared to Nistune but it's enough to infer some things based on what the ECU is reporting.

The serial number on the block will start with the engine code. If it starts with RB26 then it's an RB26 block.

You can try Pacific Coast JDM or Wolfreign Motors. Wolfreign is in Oakland so if you're based in NorCal it may be easier for you. Buying parts in the US you can often find many parts for these cars listed in Nissan US dealer catalogs. George will tell you one thing, and he's telling you what will be simplest for him. He knows how to get a stock GT-R to pass, he doesn't have to deal with any unexpected nonsense showing up to make it difficult. He also doesn't want to deal with more problems with the smog referee, even if your car does pass FTP-75 + SHED evap testing smog referees have been known to balk at things like standalone ECUs, aftermarket exhaust/intake parts, etc. Like me he is going to be very concerned that the ECU tune is not going to be good enough to pass emissions. You can keep the turbos but you're going to have to run them at low boost so they stay within reasonable bounds of the factory map. The FTP-75 test is very conservative so you won't be getting deep into boost or anything. My suggestion is to talk to your Nismo Performance Center about building you the 95 RON tune as well as sourcing a stock tune ECU for you. If the wastegate boost pressure is already below 1 bar I would leave that alone and just pull the wastegate solenoid harness connector, cap both ends to keep the wires from corroding and run the stock tune for G&K. Turbos are just air compressors/flow restrictors on the exhaust, so they don't really have huge implications for emissions when swapped out with a MAF-based ECU especially when the R1 turbos are so close to stock. Once you get it past initial registration you can swap ECUs/exhausts/etc, the tailpipe tests afterwards are trivial by comparison. Of course you can try running the Mine's ECU through G&K with a 95 RON tune but keep in mind if it fails it's going to be your money and more time spent at G&K.

The block has a serial number plate on it, too late now but you should've taken a photo before sending it out to make sure you got your block back instead of some random one they pulled out of a junk pile.

This is the only way to know. If they give a dumb answer I would not trust them with anything. My experience is that the people that really care are going to be very passionate about the parts they choose and why, which often leads to "my way or the highway" as they don't want to warranty an engine build that isn't their preferred formula.

Construction does matter, in the sense that I've seen Fram/etc filters that don't even have the filter media glued together properly or lacking the OE spec anti-drainback valves or some stupid things like that. Personally I'm happy to run the Nissan oil filters just to never worry about stuff like that. Better oil filtration in gasoline engines is also mostly a false economy, even if you had a sub-micron bypass oil filter you need to drain the oil around OEM intervals anyways as gasoline motors tend to start creating oil sludge blocking VVT cam phasers and the like if you wait too long.

If you're in the US you're looking for 15208-55Y0A which is the Nissan USA part number. Oil filters are not that complicated.

I've been trying to source those tools and a spare wheel/tire as well, mostly because the rear carpet clearly needs the spare tire for support but also because a spare tire would be really good to have for whatever reason.

Even 14 L/100km is pretty awful, I get about 11L/100km, 9.5-10 L/100km should be achievable purely doing motorway driving. I'm pretty sure your problem is your ECU tune. You should be able to command lambda 1 and get lambda 1, it's really that simple. If it isn't happening something is wrong with the modeling of your engine in the tune. Feel free to post some logs from idle/cruise.

https://www.tein.com/products/edfc_active_pro.html The Tein product he's talking about is actually trying to be true active suspension. MCR's coilovers are just a custom spec relabeled Tein coilover. DSC Sport only makes a system for the R35, not the older RB GTRs, same is true of the Aragosta Type-SA active coilovers. Tractive Suspension seems to make something for the RB26 GTRs, but for a "performance coilover" they don't seem to care about basic information like spring rate which isn't all that promising. Personally I'm of the opinion that if you're going to do this, you need to have it all properly integrated instead of whatever weird nonsense is going on with most of these systems. I really doubt that these systems are well-integrated compared to how an OEM would do it.

You can't just swap the connector. The architecture of the airbag system is fundamentally different, in the 1995 models they put the airbag control module and the airbag in the steering wheel which is why it's huge. In the S2/S3/R34 models the control module is moved to the center console area so all that's in the steering wheel is the airbag itself. You could do the swap but most of the relevant parts are either huge money or basically impossible to find.

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/wtb-pinion-and-ring-gear-of-front-differential-bnr34.572998/ You could try and contact these people to see if they still have it. I believe in the R34 if you want to match the gearing of the R32/R33 for better engine response the closest match is the Nismo final drive: https://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html The Tomei 3.692 final drive is an in-between between the OEM 3.545 that drops 120 kph to about 2800 rpm and the 3.916 that raises it to about 3050 RPM.

I would tend to agree but almost all of the hoses I removed were rusted to the hose barb. Pulling on the hose after applying a thin smear of grease with the hose clamp in place it requires quite a lot of force to expand the clamp up and over the barb, so it seems ok to me. It's almost impossible to expand the clamp as-is over the barb, it's actually easier for me to pull the hose clamp away from the hose first to release the tension, then I can pull the loose hose off and then the hose clamp. I'm sure I'm going to regret these words 3 weeks from now though when something blows off somehow and makes my life a huge pain. I would not do this, wash your engine bay and call it a day. The important thing and therefore the hard part is to make sure your hoses don't have visible dry rot.

Why would you do this? I use a very thin smear of o-ring grease (EPDM safe, but not silicone safe) on hose barbs to make them go on easier but I'm not sure this is recommended practice.

NDS2 is 70 AUD and it needs a VAG K+CAN cable which is like 34 AUD. It's free to try especially if you have any friends with what is a fairly basic OBD2 to USB cable. HKS OB-Link is a generic diagnostic tool, it's not going to even have a chance of reading out all the other CAN modules on your car, talking to those is manufacturer-specific. If you want 100% compatibility for diagnostics then get a real Consult II and whatever subscription is required to keep it functioning. I'm willing to bet that the next best thing is NDS2.

The list is not comprehensive. If you want to be sure NDS2 offers a trial mode where you can check to see if it will pair and what modules it supports. NDS2 is implementing the Consult 2 protocol so it is probably the most likely to support your car.