joshuaho96

Looks like they put some more details on their Youtube channel. It's interesting how they actually bothered to completely rethink the airbox/intake piping end to end, usually those are left as an exercise for the reader to complete. Anyone know what that AVL capture is showing? I have strong doubts it's actually from an RB engine, would not be surprised to know if it's a single cylinder research engine.

RB20DET O2 sensor for an HCR32 GTST Type M would be 2269073L11. For some reason it's extremely expensive and not shared with many other cars but that's what it is. I can't find an aftermarket equivalent either. Terra Firma in the US claims that an NTK replacement will work but they don't say what it is: https://tfaspeed.com/products/replacement-oxygen-sensor-for-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst-gts4-gts25-rb20-25det Checking Kudos Motorsports it's likely NTK OZA726-EE2 which is used in the Pulsar and B13 NX.

You can check for codes in the meantime with a jumper wire.

https://nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php?content=supportedadaptors Looks like it’s the right one but not sure.

You can achieve something similar with just the standard intake VCAM, especially if you go for the full 50 degrees of cam advance. I often see tuners unfamiliar with VVT just doing the full throttle pulls and interpolating from there which causes them to miss the bigger benefit of EGR at part load. Exhaust VCT does help, just not as much as you'd hope. The twin injector setup I'm pretty sure their idea is to deal with a few different issues going on. One is that there's basically no such thing as an 800 cc/min twin spray modern injector on the market. To get there with commodity injectors (not some ridiculously expensive Bosch Motorsport thing that you can't actually buy) your options are either a Denso injector with a single cone spray and 6 hole diffuser plate at 850cc/min or the Bosch 040 980cc/min 7 hole diffuser plate with single cone spray. That's at 3 bar, obviously you can bump the fuel pressure of a smaller injector but even at 5 bar you probably don't have enough fuel. The better the spray pattern (the better the fuel avoids the intake walls), the less fuel that has to be accounted for in all kinds of transient scenarios like cold start, transient throttle, etc. The other issue is dynamic range. Smaller injectors are fine for this but a big injector these days may still have to idle rich just to stabilize the fuel delivery instead of having the idle chase itself all over the place. With staged injection they could just fire a single injector at idle and only bring in both injectors when the pulse width is large enough to run both of them in the linear regime. One thing I have been thinking about for some time now is whether the Bosch 997.1 turbo injectors (0280158123) would be able to fit the RB26, combined with a 5 bar FPR and a fairly heavy duty pump like the DW440 brushless it should be able to sustain that high fuel pressure even with a decent amount of boost to get right around 800 cc/min of flow like this but without any complicated injector setup. It's a 3/4 length EV14 injector with extended tip so it's a bit longer than the traditional 040 980cc injector but otherwise it doesn't seem unreasonable to me. Don't get me wrong, I think what HKS is doing is really interesting, I'm just highly skeptical that they will actually bring the important pieces to market like the exhaust VCAM or passive TJI retrofit.

Flasher unit is in the dash, number 52 in this image next to the center console stack, it's next to the buzzer to remind you to remove your key and "circuit breaker" and is a black 3 pin relay. Not sure how you actually get to it though:

HKS talked about the engine last year I believe. It mostly looks like just a conversation piece for now. Can't tell if the mounting bracket for the electronic wastegate is some kind of weird 3D printed metal or plastic but I doubt that will actually work even as an engine dyno proof of concept. Those exhaust manifolds look like a prototype and will likely not last long either. The dual chamber plenum is probably the closest to reality and the dual 400cc injector setup is pretty interesting too. I don't know why they didn't just try and figure out a single injector with two cone spray doing 800cc/min instead but maybe that's too boring. You can basically achieve that just by taking a current mass production EV14 630cc injector and bumping fuel pressure to 5 bar. I'm also super skeptical of the fuel economy claims. I doubt they can do it without cooled EGR to actually realize the passive TJI system they're proposing. Otherwise the sheer strength of the combustion event will likely beat the bottom-end to death.

It sounds like you figured it out but for future reference a Consult cable + Nissan Datascan 1 will be able to read out all of the data from the stock ECU or a chipped/Nistune variant of it.

What does the ECU say? Does it get an RPM signal? Is it receiving the starter signal? Does it see acceptable battery voltage? Does it report any codes? Don't parts cannon a no-start condition, engine not starting is a pretty simple issue to debug. Either it's fuel, spark, or you have a mechanical issue causing excessively low compression.

Try various orientations until it releases? I don't recall having any issues with those clips.

Don't decat street cars, end of story.

Additional note: The brake + clutch vacuum booster pipes are an absolute pain in the neck to get in compared to the OEM lines. You must use the Nismo-provided pipes to clear everything properly. I would recommend maneuvering the pipe to stick out between cylinder 5 and 6 as it should before you put the collector on the intake manifold/ITBs. You can do it afterwards like I did but expect to do a lot of maneuvering to figure out how to make it happen, you should expect to have the fuel filter unbolted as well as the boost solenoid and fuel injector resistor pack taken off to make more room. Getting the gasket in place is an absolute pain in the neck when the coolant pipe mounting tab is actively pushing this pipe out of place. Also, Nismo includes a replacement part for the oil pressure sensor bracket that connects it to the vacuum/coolant pipe that is directly above it. I assume you need to put this bracket on to get everything to fit correctly, presumably the spacing is slightly different relative to the OEM plenum which will cause this coolant pipe to not fit up correctly with the air chamber under the plenum. Do this before the plenum goes on instead of after, it is much more annoying/difficult to do it when the manifold + collector is blocking access. 10mm u-joint and 12mm u-joint quarter inch sockets as mentioned are mandatory for this job. I cannot imagine how you would even attempt to do things like bolting up the brake/clutch booster pipe without one. Even though a wrench will get on the bolt, I only have like a quarter turn before I'm hitting something and a ratcheting wrench will be too big to clear the pipe.

I managed to do it. I highly recommend a 60 degree open-ended wrench/spanner for this job in conjunction with a 12mm u-joint quarter inch socket for the rearmost stud at the bottom of cylinder 6. Also as I mentioned make sure you put the dowels on the ITBs, not the plenum/collector, otherwise you won't clear the studs. It will barely clear and maybe scratch the gasket face a little around the bolt hole areas.

This thread makes me want to buy an R33 ABS pump before they go NLA.

So there's actually a few additional notes here, one is that the cylinder 3 and 4 dowel pins must be on the ITBs, not the plenum/collector. Otherwise there is literally not enough clearance. I am amazed I got it on without some kind of catastrophic damage to the mating surfaces. I managed to get all of cylinder 5 studs back in after putting the collector on, then the top stud for cylinder 6. I had to use the double nut method, for some reason my studs after zinc coating require a wrench or something to help them tighten down. It definitely feels wrong, I have to carefully (emphasis on carefully) tighten it down until I feel the stud bottom out, then back it out ever so slightly so a stress riser is not created before trying very hard to not adjust the stud depth while removing the double nut locked together. The problem with cylinder 6 is that there is so little clearance I literally cannot get a crescent wrench or crows foot wrench to hold the back nut still while I tighten/loosen the front nut with a 12mm u-joint socket, so the stud is not properly seated. Any ideas?

Route it to a catch can with a proper air-oil separator, then vent the rest back in front of the compressor inlet with a dedicated intake pipe.

For future reference, the OEM part number for this part is 22060-05U00, the harness it attaches to is 24079-24U00. If you don't feel like paying ~150-200 USD for one of these dinky little knock sensors the NTK OE sensor is ID0184 or 72813. This is a flat response sensor, it is marked KNE01-A on the sensor itself, KR is the model designator NTK uses for their resonant variants. This sensor is shared with the GA16DE 1995-1999 US market Nissan Sentra. The harness uses a single wire and does not appear to have coax/copper shielding. On RockAuto these are listed for 100 USD each.

It is a valve cover breather. That is an engine fire waiting to happen. That line will vent oil mist under boost, oil mist + red hot exhaust manifold/turbo = fire.

Another thing to consider when it comes to piston choice is that most of the forged piston options out there are made for like 1000+ whp which means they have fairly short lifespans in street use. They call for fairly large cold clearances which means a lot of blowby and piston slap when cold which means you really have to baby the engine when it's cold with proper warmup. It may even slap when warm if you're just driving on the street. You will also have to compensate in your knock control because the piston slap generates a ton of additional noise on the knock sensors. So there is definitely a significant downside to overbuilding your engine for the intended application. There's no free lunch and it will really suck to buy the wrong parts for your intended application. IMO if I had the engine apart my biggest goal would be to do things like oil pump gears, appropriate head restrictor, crankcase ventilation, baffle plates, etc. Stuff that isn't necessarily expensive but requires tearing deep into the engine to do.

I sent my stuff in to someone more experienced for them to do the entire restoration of the ITBs/manifold. Too much headache for me when I don't have a press or anything at home.

Headlights are very complicated parts, reproducing a series 3 headlight properly is basically impossible without the OEM molds which are likely gone now.

All I can tell you is that I know people that got past G&K without a fully stock RB. A turbo is just an air compressor driven by a pinwheel in the exhaust.

Your logs indicated some kind of electrical issue visible to the ECU so it’s very possible yes.

You could contact JK Technologies in Baltimore, they might be certified. At any rate I really don’t know why you’re trying to get approval from G&K. I am not at all surprised that their response to you was just digging their heels in. Super normal for them. It’s really not that hard to get an otherwise stock R33 with R1 turbos and minor exhaust changes to pass as-is. It’s not like you’re trying to get something with drag cams to pass. You cannot even tell what turbos are on the car without removing the heat shields. I would just use the stock tune as mentioned and run low boost.