joshuaho96

https://www.full-race.com/ets-pro-nissan-skyline-gt-r-center-differential-attesa-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34 If you want a new ATTESA controller this is what you're looking for. If you want more after that then you're looking at some kind of stability control/traction control which requires DBW to execute properly and I believe is beyond what your average Haltech is capable of. Most ECUs out there are only going to do something like cut throttle if too much slip is detected. Nothing near what a modern stability control system is capable of. Maybe a Life Racing or similarly motorsport oriented unit can be on par with modern VSC/TC.

In order to delete the AAC valve and intake air regulator you would have to go to DBW. In order to delete a bunch of coolant lines you'd either have to decide you don't want cabin heating anymore. I spent months tearing down that side of the engine all the way to the front diff and replaced every single coolant and vacuum line. Let me know what you want to try deleting and I can probably explain what it does. If you plan on going single throttle body you can definitely do DBW and simplify the underside of the intake manifold quite a lot. Unfortunately though if you want to keep ITBs and a cable throttle a lot of that crap has to stay.

Don't fuel pumps already have pressure relief valves?

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2016/11/does-your-hicas-light-turn-on-after.html Start with this diagnostic for the HICAS. Engine diagnostics are separate from HICAS. If someone has messed with the wiring there's realistically no way for any of us to give you a useful answer though. You're going to have to see how it's actually wired up now and go from there.

Inspection camera time, check and see if cylinder 4 has a ton of oil on the intake valves.

Yeah, I'm just curious as to the specific elements that are worse on the RB and whether those are fixable. I know about the oil pump drive but the other parts I'm fuzzy on.

What harmonics in particular? I don't know too much about what happens at 10k RPM for these engines.

Have you tried pulling the codes from the ECU and HICAS CU?

Looking for part number 17221-70T00 and I believe 17240-70T00. The pipe that is basically the first thing you see when you remove the gas cap.

Knowing who built the engine he will probably be taken care of but for normal people it's pretty fair to say if this happens you are 100% SOL unless the same shop that builds the engine is also doing the tune for it.

The centerlines on most aftermarket cams are different from stock, so keeping the same settings on aftermarket cams after adjusting for stock wouldn't make sense necessarily. You'd want to try stock cams + timing, then aftermarket drop-in cams at their default timing, then use the cam gears to adjust the timing back to be the same as stock cams. Also, don't forget to torque those cam gears to spec and use blue loctite because otherwise this can happen and you'll bend a bunch of valves and maybe destroy your head too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI7GFPYDtOo&t=625s

Is it any different from Gran Turismo Sport?

I'm afraid to strip stuff so I would get the right socket but yeah that's external torx. I've also seen 12 point hex before when I changed a fraying seatbelt out on my car.

That's correct, the idle was about 1050 rpm with the AAC (aux air control/idle) valve at 0% duty cycle before, now I have it idling around 950 rpm with the AAC valve at ~35%. In my case I basically pulled apart the entire intake side of the engine and replaced almost every hose/hose clamp as a major overhaul. I don't think you need to go that far. What I would look out for on the intake side of the engine would be stuff like leaking throttle body shaft seals, failed intake manifold gaskets, cracked vacuum lines, things of that nature. I would also check your idle control valve to see if it's working properly. Unfortunately I don't have a great solution for how to verify the cold start valve isn't getting stuck open as it's wax thermostat valve that opens/closes based on coolant temperature. If you do replace any hoses and/or hose clamps I recommend a very thin film of o-ring grease on the hose barbs to help the hose slide on and seal properly.

You should've kept the JDM farts those are worth extra to US collectors

My only recommendation is to amp up physical security. If you can get a secure private garage (basically impossible in Japan I know) you should try that. If you can get bollards installed with a proper lock to make it time intensive to attempt towaway theft that's another option. The trouble now is that they know where you live and where to find your car which really makes things harder now.

Oil pan in an RB26 is not a trivial job like a lower oil pan on most cars, it is engine-out as everyone else has said. Do not even think about attempting it any other way.

My stock R33 just works with Nissan Datascan. Does it blink out error codes if you use the jumper wire method?

R34 GTTs haven't been at that price for 5+ years now. I agree the undercarriage seems ok but I can tell there is rust on the sills at the front. Hard for me to say how bad it is without better pictures or seeing it in person.

Yeah so the first thing that sticks out to me is that your idle shows signs of a leak, either internal from something like the intake air regulator that provides the air to fast idle at cold start or possibly an external vacuum leak. Start with external vacuum leaks using a smoke machine. You should be idling closer to 15 degrees of timing once warmed up. My theory is that the ECU is trying to correct the idle with AAC duty cycle but after a certain time it realizes it isn't settling and pulls a ton of timing out to force it down. To get it to settle down it's going to 0 degrees at certain points which is really not great. You are also right that something is wrong with your O2 sensor because the NDS O2 value should be divided by 100 to get the voltage. Turbo boost I'm not sure what it's supposed to be here, it might be the MAP sensor. I recommend fixing your O2 and whatever vacuum leaks you have first and foremost. Everything else is kind of irrelevant for now. I am a little concerned about your MAF reading 4.55V in a transient but if it isn't hitting R&R you're probably fine. If you are you probably have some mods that need to be tuned for or unwound. Here's an example log from my RB26 before I fixed my idle issues: 2021391529.log Here's the log from after I fixed it. You'll also notice the O2 signal looks very different. Both drives are my work commute and I recorded from cold start to end of drive. 20222101443.log

Tomei USA made the change a while back to their own spec cams to cut cost, I don't recall when exactly it happened though. WD's experience with snapped Tomei cams is possibly a crappy casting but I wouldn't be surprised if the previous owner just completely failed to adhere to proper procedure setting timing belt tension or installing the cams. Tomei JP's cams are made in-house although not all of their components are built in-house. The stories and photos I saw were not posted to Youtube or anything like that, it was a local private Facebook group. HKS' cams are fairly conservative with valve lift so I don't know if it makes any sense to go with them, you can go up to ~9.15mm before you have to clearance the head for a high lift camshaft. Something I've wondered for a while now is just how much of the improvement with these drop-in cams can actually be attributed to the lift/duration changes when they seem to be making non-trivial changes to cam timing as well.

There's a lot of drama around Tomei USA, you can look at this post to get an idea: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134044 Personally I don't buy Tomei USA parts because in the groups I'm in I've seen people get Tomei USA cams that don't even fit in the engine because they were machined so far off from correct. On top of this I have seen people claim that they have gotten head gaskets that were faulty from the very first turn of the key. Obviously there's some doubt as to whether the machine shop/engine builder adhered to all the necessary requirements to ensure that the deck/head were properly prepped and all that fun stuff but they claimed it was. That combined with a few other people mentioning issues they've heard was enough that I will never buy a Tomei USA part. If you think spending a little more on shipping to get a camshaft is expensive I would probably think hard about the cost of potentially having to do a camshaft replacement twice or having to spend weeks RMAing your part to Tomei USA and getting a replacement that may or may not be any better. Also, consider what your goal is with these cams. If you want better response more cam duration is probably counterproductive which is why Tomei JP makes the type R Poncam. The 260 cams cause mild idle lumpiness which you may find desirable but is caused by poor combustion stability at idle.

Every car will smell very strongly of raw fuel at cold start. Upload your NDS1 log and I can take a look.

The entire R34 factory service manual is online. It's in Japanese but you can use Google Translate for pretty much all of it. Use the EPC/electronic parts catalog to figure out what parts to order. Did you get the car PPI'd prior to purchase? I don't see any undercarriage photos. Hopefully you got the VIN and got some vehicle history as well.

AFAIK the FA24DIT is tuned a lot better from the factory, putting aside the other questionable decisions. I still don't understand why Subaru insists on shipping cars with such questionable tunes from the factory. It's fixable, but it just seems wrong to void a warranty just to linearize the torque vs accel pedal input curve.