joshuaho96

Dual MAFs requires more analog inputs that most ECUs don’t have. This is on top of the fact that MAF tuning is wildly unpopular outside of OEM applications. Haltech is one of the few companies that supports the MAFs but you’re going to have to find someone that is actually willing to tune with MAFs. I need to test how the Haltech actually works with MAFs though. I plan on replicating the stock ECU map as much as possible on a Haltech Elite ECU but it’s blocked by registration issues.

KRCR32RGFSLMAC; 2 Door Coupe; RB20DET; 2WD HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps; (12M) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control) + Electronic Active Sound System; (13A) Standard; (14C) Type M Specification I'd recommend contacting CarVX or a similar service to get some vehicle history.

As far as I know the factory ECU up to the MAF/fuel flow limit will have a pretty reasonable AFR target, it's really just the pulling of timing to a pretty impressive extent that is a concern as it will spike EGTs. Either you put a 0.5 bar wastegate actuator in the turbo and unplug the electrical connector on the boost solenoid or don't press your foot too far down on the accelerator pedal. I currently have my turbos running wastegate spring pressure which is still too high (~0.88 bar) so I have to compensate by not metering a ton of air. Keep in mind that because of the ignition timing retard on the final load column you will actually have less power than if you had kept the airflow within the bounds. I only did it once to see what would happen and it was a split second, I was going to tell the driver to let off immediately if anything my Consult dashboard suggested looked bad like maxing out the MAF, excessive injector duty cycle, etc. There was another thread recently about mounting something like a Haltech Elite in the factory position, I checked with the seller of a bracket and he posted pictures of it mounted in the factory position with the kick plate installed. Obviously if you add stuff like the WB1/etc you will have to figure out how to get all of that mounted as well: https://www.instagram.com/p/CX5YuEuKQSx/

It would be safe to drive on, but you'd want to avoid more than like 0.5 bar. Even at factory boost levels like 0.7 bar you could hit the final load column at which point you will lose something like 5-8 degrees of timing. I have GTIII-SS turbos on my car without a tune right now due to emissions reasons and just a single WOT pull caused a pretty strong smell in the exhaust like it wasn't doing good things to the catalytic converter. It definitely hit the last load cell and I believe the MAF hit something like 4V. I am hoping to finish up my emissions issues soon so I can get started on ECU map development, then I can show people just how awful the HKS nuggets are.

Valve cover leaks are vacuum leaks in a MAF system. The degree to which that matters is likely pretty minor in practice unless you have a gaping hole that you've been ignoring but it does contribute a little.

https://www.iee.nz/product-page/haltech-elite-2500-ecu-mount-r33-gtr

It's possible that your air leak is not an external one but an internal one. Stuff like the cold start valve/intake air regulator as they get old can struggle to close properly and ends up bypassing a lot of air all the time. Your O2 sensor seems to be healthy and oscillating quite a lot. Makes me think I need to replace my O2 sensor if I'm honest, mine seems a bit lazier.

I've seen some photometric data on Morimoto projectors like the Mini H1 and it can be pretty awful. It's hard to say in the absence of data whether the OEM R33 projector is any good but it at least met presumably UN/ECE standards with the RHD cutoff shield. So I had an LHD cutoff shield made for the OEM projector and I have my fingers crossed that is at least remotely SAE compliant.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ especially in Canada the beam flares the wrong way. I try not to drive my Skyline at night right now because it still has the stock halogens which are acceptably bright but are totally not ok to be using on LHD/RHT roads. I'm a crazy person though as one of the first things I did after buying an R33 was buy a set of series 3 HIDs, then have it sent out to have it disassembled and a mirrored cutoff shield installed on the factory projector. I have my doubts about whether this would actually test well photometrically but I figure it can't be that bad compared to something like a Morimoto projector.

When multiple sources I've found with actual photometric testing have found that the light output from putting LEDs in housings not designed for it is garbage I'm going to trust the photometric testing. I get that the whole "don't believe your own eyes" thing is pretty much textbook questionable but the US/SAE headlight regulations are written in blood. The same is true of the ADRs, CMVSS, and ECE equivalent regulations. If it were up to me I would get a Mini D2S retrofit. I'm not a huge fan of Morimoto projectors but they're better than LEDs shoved in one of the very first projector headlight designs ever released to market.

I’m not sure how it is in Australia but in the US most long distance heavy duty freight trucks are still manual transmissions with no synchronizers. If they had to inspect the transmission internals every 600-700 km they would never be able to get their jobs done in a reasonable amount of time. It’s definitely heavily dependent on how good you are at shifting gears. If you can float gears smoothly with no drama you could probably go indefinitely with no replacement. If you’re learning on the transmission and making a lot of mistakes wear can be quite a lot and require short replacement intervals. Personally I know I’m not a pro at floating gears so I would go with synchros but if you are already double clutching every shift perfectly it’s not a far leap at that point to a dogbox.

This is the closest thing I've found to a valuation guide for these cars in the US. Prices are in USD. Keep in mind Hagerty is primarily concerned with stock/near stock cars and for anything modified they're not great at pricing those. Value of your mods are almost entirely dependent on what someone wants out of it. Someone like me that wants a lightly modified car is probably going to not value it as highly as someone who wants a built motor with that kind of spec.

Those injectors are like 50 USD each from Hitachi, super cheap.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5428377&jsn=720 These are direct fit. As a general rule unless you can change not only the CC flow rate but all the other injector parameters like latency you're going to have a bad time just throwing new injectors in there.

There is no replacement for actually driving it yourself and feeling how the shift feels in your hands. I can make a gearbox on its last legs seem fine by shifting gently and double clutching. Shift just a little faster and it'll grind. Usually in a private party transaction the easiest way to do it is at a bank yes. They bring car + anything else. Verify that they didn't forget anything that was part of the deal. Walk into the bank, do a bank transfer using a cashier's check or similar. Do the paperwork on the sale, make sure to not screw it up on either side as many of these documents are void from any strikethroughs. I'm in the US though so I can't speak to the specifics in your region.

I do have legal/emissions compliance to keep in mind unfortunately. But even if there were no such concerns the things I want out of a single turbo RB26 doesn't really exist as far as I know. Short runners, low-mount, proper heat shielding instead of just having an exhaust manifold + turbo inches away from heat-sensitive components, real thought given to minimizing the changes to things other than the turbo + manifold + intake piping, and twin scroll. Basically look at a BMW B58 or N55, that's the goal in my head. I know that's a really tall order but this is a street car, not a track build. Someone I know has gone through stock turbos -> HKS GT-SS -> GTX3576R gen 2 and he absolutely loses power at the critical ~3000-4000 RPM area where I spend a lot of time at on the street contrary to what Motive found.

Genuinely confused here, I've never seen a dyno result where -9s/GT-SS didn't give up a pretty substantial amount of response relative to stock turbos. I figured staring at turbine maps that you want to size it to the actual amount of exhaust CFM you expect or else either you have really awful response or the turbo becomes entirely backpressure limited. Everything I can find suggests that for the same exact turbine wheel, adjusting the turbine a/r moves the choke point up and down. The turbo definitely chokes somewhere around 18-21 psi up top from what I've seen but for my purposes that's actually ok. Funny enough looking at the BMW S55 the turbos they use stock are comparatively tiny. 51mm compressor exducer, 43mm turbine inducer:

Isn't the trim for the GTIII-SS listed somewhere? The tag for it says 5652 55T 01786 on mine. I'm guessing the 55T is for the compressor. I don't understand, I thought when you make a smaller turbo for smaller power output everything gets smaller. 0.64 a/r on a -9 but 0.83 or 1.01 a/r on a single turbo is not unusual. Stock is 0.48 turbine a/r so it's pretty much right between stock and an N1 or GT-SS. I was never really interested in it for "billet", I just want a tiny turbo to make very pedestrian levels of power. Pretty much stock, just without the ceramic turbine wheel. Each turbo only has 1.3L of displacement to work with after all. I think more than anything my concern is I make an irreversible change to the car that really affects reliability or driveability. It would've been nice to have the same turbo but ball bearings instead of journal bearings but I'm willing to bet that a larger ball bearing turbo is ultimately going to have more lag than a smaller journal bearing turbo. Even if there's more drag from the bearings, the issue is more the inertia of the turbine/compressor wheels. I don't know if I'd ever recommend a bolt-on turbo for the kind of power that the GT-RS turbos are targeted at.

Is the GTIII-SS actually mismatched between compressor and turbine? I've never been able to find any information on it. Only thing I know is the exhaust housing a/r is 0.54.

As a general rule you do not mix gaskets and RTV. That is a recipe for disaster.

In the US V35s and V36s are mostly disappearing because they've been crashed and modified to death like any other cheap RWD car. Such is life.

Pretty much yes. I'm attracted to poor life decisions which is how I ended up with a GTR after all.

The FA has a ton of technologies in it that make it halfway acceptable for fuel economy compared to the positively stone-age EJ. GDI allows for scavenging without a bunch of fuel missing the combustion chamber and going straight out the exhaust. Cooled EGR allows for a lot more knock margin than the engine would have otherwise. TGV allows for good fuel mixing even at low RPM with GDI. There's also part load Atkinson cycle operation.

Stock block or stock bottom-end? I can believe stock block. The question is also how long you can make that power for. Subaru has killed 100% stock STIs under warranty by shipping poor tunes.

The F82 M4 is technically extremely competent. It's also kind of emotionally dead and somehow sounds absolutely horrible with the stock exhaust. To me that car exemplifies the fact that we don't drive spec sheets, there are a ton of little details that affect the experience.