joshuaho96

Gotta be careful with brakes when it comes to washing cars unfortunately. I'm surprised that hard braking didn't clean the rust off though.

From what I see the difference isn't so much the temperature setpoint which is controlled by the bimetallic strip material but rather the engagement profile. Interestingly enough this pdf suggests that if they are dimensionally near identical then they should behave comparably: https://www.4s.com/media/3747/4s410-fan-clutches-standard-heavy-severe.pdf The danger supposedly is that if you have too much engagement from a "heavy duty" fan clutch then the fan could spin far too quickly and disassemble itself.

You cannot just slap any Garrett turbos on your car and expect to run the stock ECU. The range of Garrett's lineup spans turbos good for maybe 150 hp each to 600+ hp each. The efficiency of any bolt-on upgrade is substantially higher than the stock turbos and will make more power with the same boost. I don't know why people think it's ok to leave out critical information like this. OEM turbos you can run with the stock ECU whether the boost restrictor is in the hose or not. I can say with confidence that it does not take much to cause the stock ECU to exceed what it considers to be a safe amount of airflow. I have a pair of HKS GTIII-SS turbos on wastegate boost. These are tiny, tiny turbos that are only good for something like 10-13% more power than the factory turbos at roughly 15 psi. These are still enough to end up losing 5-10 degrees of timing if I go WOT even at roughly 0.9 bar of wastegate boost. Factory spec for an R33 is supposedly 0.85 bar. I do not go past 0.5 bar of boost indicated on the factory boost gauge currently to make sure I stay within the safe zone of the ECU map. The factory RB26 ECU is tolerant of questionable things like this, but only to an extent. Once you hit the end of the map you get something like 22 degrees of timing and roughly ~11:1 AFR. If it turns out that you need less timing than that for the kind of airflow you're getting you could easily destroy your engine.

Somebody ripped you off. You can buy the capacitors for 30 dollars even with some absurd shipping charge and then it's just a matter of doing a bit of through-hole soldering. I don't know how they could even have the conscience to charge that much when it doesn't even seem to work anymore.

Most Mine's ECUs require 100 RON. OEM ECU is a very safe tune that will be fine even with 96 RON. All bets are off if you have modified the engine substantially though.

Sure. If you're really afraid of running too much boost/unsure of whether the restrictor is in there you can either buy a replacement hose with the factory restrictor still or you can just unplug the boost solenoid while leaving the hoses all hooked up.

https://nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php?content=supportedadaptors It will be one of these. It is considered to be OBD1.

I'm not even sure the RB ECU looks at the MAF sensor when cranking. Verify that the ECU is getting ignition synchronization by checking whether it emits an RPM signal.

I’m doubtful on that one. Those cars had a completely different VIN structure and the plate was still blue: https://gtr-registry.com/en-r33-gtr-v-spec-great-britain.php#VINPlate

No, it's not possible to have that plate from the factory. Someone likely defaced the old one which is pretty easy to do if you aren't careful and had that replacement installed. It's hard to say what the provenance of that VIN plate is. It matches stuff like the Y34 and other Nissans of the era.

Not sure it was the exact same engine but UP Garage doesn't really do bespoke builds, they claimed it was all their VCAM Step 1 package and about the same weather. I believe the M7655 and GTIII-SS was back to back though. If you check their site this is what they mention, they probably used the 850cc SARD injectors for those runs but they've transitioned to the Bosch 980cc injectors since then as Denso discontinued it:

Quite a lot had to be removed to make room for that dry sump tank though, I dunno if I'd call that practical. For me to go dry sump I'd want it to be able to fit into an otherwise stock engine bay with no deletes or chopping up the chassis/discontinued parts. Until then I suspect the best I can do is try all the PCV tricks suggested in the oil control thread.

Didn't the official AU market R32 GTR get a transfer case cooler? Probably overkill for most people but some engineer somewhere decided it was necessary in some operating conditions and somehow everyone was convinced this was important enough to make a special modification for it.

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2019/06/nissan-skyline-hot-shifter-hot.html?m=1 If you drive gently and you pay attention to finer details like making sure the tires have all the same diameter it’s not an issue. But even if you do take care of that if you’re regularly driving for hours like you’re on an unlimited autobahn for YouTube clicks then it is possible to get some binding and weirdness from the transfer case. I have had some people in my area mention running into this problem. Whether it’s because they need new tires or something more fundamental I couldn’t tell you.

Transfer case cooler is probably most likely to be required, I've known people that have had issues with it getting hot and locking up just from extended highway/expressway driving.

Aren't the UP Garage results "real world"? The trouble is I've yet to see anyone else reproduce their numbers at the low-end. With their Spectrum Motorsports DR500 turbos they're claiming 18 psi by 3000 RPM while making 350 kW to the wheels: https://www.facebook.com/upgarage/videos/697436427734626

I still have a hard time explaining away this post, maybe some day I'll be able to get my car on a dyno with a proper tune to figure out if this is remotely achievable:

Have you seen the rats nest of hoses under the intake manifold of an RB26? Stepper motors for idle control is far too elegant. On the bright side at least the power steering idle up on these motors isn't a physical valve that can start leaking power steering fluid into the intake with age.

This is from UP Garage in Washington, they seem to like the HKS turbos for some reason. They reliably claim that the GTIII-SS is the most responsive turbo you can get for a factory bolt-on twin turbo. The trade is the least amount of power you can get from any turbo other than the factory ceramics. I also saw this chart from someone that ran the GTIII-RS turbos in Japan: I think it's pretty fair to say most people here really don't like the HKS GTIII turbos though, they are a pretty old design compared to something like an EFR7163. While new turbo tech helps a lot if you're a weird person like me and you've mentally put yourself in the design corner of "must be bolt-on turbo" and "must be as small as possible to reduce turbo lag" then HKS is pretty much the only game in town now other than the tried and true Garrett options sold by GCG Japan and others. Almost nobody has experience with the Tomei T550Bs, I recommend asking Tommy Farrell as I think he's had some customer cars use those turbos.

I strongly doubt that there will be any differences other than map revisions and minor board revisions.

This is for the R33 GTR but I can't imagine the routing is going to be dramatically different as the placement of the critical components seems to be mostly the same. 36 is the AC pressure switch. Goes towards the driver side near the headlight and then up towards the relay/fuse box which has the AC relay. From there it goes into a grommet in the firewall into the driver side which then goes into the spaghetti inside the dashboard until it gets into the back of the AC unit. It also is connected to the ECU harness somehow too, probably to help with AC idle-up. Edit: Interior body harness looks like this:

Pretty sure the T51R mod affects the compressor map and probably not in a positive way.

For a single throttle body there's no real need for a MAF. Haltech Elite supports both. If you want to keep the MAF in place to help you tune though that can help quite a lot with part throttle setup. At steady state in a load cell you can empirically derive volumetric efficiency with a MAF. GM's ECUs can use this data to help with transient throttle too.

Check the battery voltage and compare with the number you get in Nissan Datascan. If it's substantially different you got problems. Look up the factory wiring diagram for the power feed to the ECU and check for voltage drop across the wires/relays. I bet your ECU is browning out when you try to crank. Try running Nissan Datascan logging while cranking. If the data stream dies you have a problem. When I try doing this on my car as long as the battery is charged it won't brown out and I will see all consult parameters during crank and the moment it kicks over.

Only pull the turbos for service if there's shaft play or obvious oil/coolant leaks coming from it. Ball bearing turbos should have basically zero shaft play. Journal bearing may have a bit of shaft play but only for oil clearances. If you have a boost leak you should test for it first instead of just guessing.