joshuaho96

Can't you snoop the TC lockup solenoid to determine this too?

I recommend reviewing this picture:

https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/14252 Anyone see this post? Pretty impressive how 3D scanning is being used to create replicas of discontinued body panels.

I recommend connecting a diagnostic cable to the ECU and figuring out why it won't fire the injectors.

I would not trust any used engine with "40k km mileage" without opening it up and measuring everything and inspecting for damage in critical regions and a major overhaul. Your battery can't cause a bottom-end knock. RBs in general seem to attract a lot of questionable mechanics at least in the US that are used to doing sloppy work. There's a reason why YouTubers are able to buy two cars with RB26s that snap a cam and start crank walking an engine that is not known for such issues. Any new car design within the last 20 years is going to be even more sensitive to improper maintenance/repair than an R-chassis. Use a stethoscope or something similar to narrow down where the noise is coming from. If you know it's from the bottom-end shut it down and stop doing damage to the engine. If you've spun a bearing every second the engine runs raises the risk that it's beyond saving. Don't waste your time buying a new battery to see if that changes anything. The only way it could be the battery is if you somehow flipped the terminals and destroyed the electronics but it somehow still barely runs. I know this is tough to hear but unfortunately this is just how it goes with cars.

Have you considered buying the OEM part? Seems to be pretty cheap.

From what I have seen/heard the oil control issues involved with huge power is just too annoying to deal with, I'd rather keep power targets conservative for that reason. I am planning on running VCAM whenever I finally get around to it though. I have seen enough charts to conclude that within the bolt-on turbo design space there is no free lunch, more power up top means worse response down low. Doing the same optimization with a stock turbo would yield better response than GT-SS. Emissions and OEM engineering validation are issues that I need to be concerned about so going single turbo isn't really something I want to do either.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr34/3957-rb26dett/engine/144/15188A/ Looking at the diagrams I don't see double washers. That sounds like an oil leak waiting to happen. The only exception is certain cases where there is a lock washer (split ring) and a flat washer.

In the future I recommend posting your questions in the thread instead of sending them to me as a PM, just in case someone else has your problem in the future. Two things stand out to me from what you've sent me: 1. Someone appears to have messed with the wiring on the car. So in that regard you're on your own, I can't trace wires remotely and figure out what's been done to your car. 2. I recommend reading through what I linked to figure out what the ECU error code is and report back. That may give you some clue as to what's wrong.

For a transmission pick a GL4 75W-90 with synchromesh additives. For the differentials pick a GL5 75W-90, for the rear diff you will need one with additives for limited slip. For the front you can get away with using a gear oil with LSD additive but if you can find one without it the diff should live a longer life. I recommend doing some research with your favorite search engine if you need a more comprehensive answer than that.

I'm pretty sure the AC cut at WOT in most cars is just to reduce the parasitic loss when requesting maximum power. The RPM limit though is almost certainly determined by what the compressor can take without destroying itself.

Check the Consult connector, make sure the connector is in good shape. Then verify that there are no active codes on the ECU. The exhaust gas overtemp lamp is also a check engine light: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2016/04/how-to-read-check-engine-or-cat.html

Even if it couldn't actually run AC from idle to redline, the way the system is described means it can use the water to air charge cooler to help absorb the transients until the compressor can kick on again. It also seems to be designed for drag passes so there's a definite start/end to when that transient would be in the intended use case.

AFAIK since the 2000s a number of cars have variable displacement compressors to improve AC efficiency so the behavior in those systems will be different compared to a fixed displacement unit that has to cycle on and off.

I can try taking some logs with an RB26 on the stock ECU to see roughly where the OEM RPM threshold is. 4500 RPM seems a little low to me but who knows.

Do a compression test then check the injector flow. If there's per-cylinder fuel trims make sure it's reasonable too.

Is there anything particularly wrong with the stock RB26 knock sensors? NTK KNE01A as far as I can tell is a wideband sensor. I would have figured if anything is the problem it would be the wiring harness which appears to ground the knock sensor to the block rather than using the knock sensor pins as a differential input. The wires also appear to be unshielded.

I think the A-LSD is cool, but it has nothing to do with practicality. Fun conversation piece as I believe the R33 was one of the first cars to ship an active LSD. Ferrari I believe did not do their E-diff equivalent until the F430. As with any technology though, being first to market has nothing to do with whether it's actually any good.

The tail light is all one piece, so you'd have to crack it open and see if you could clean it up. I ended up just buying another one.

This sounds a lot smarter than cutting off the y-pipe.

In this scenario you'd have to keep the OEM sensor, presumably it would be easier to rig up something to test the calibration of your sensor and put that calibration in your standalone ECU/dash/etc compared to adjusting the calibration of the factory gauges to suit a new aftermarket sensor. This only makes sense though if the factory sensor is actually good enough to use. For example the OEM RB26 IAT sensor is really a coolant temperature sensor so it's useless for speed density because it takes so long to react.

I was visualizing a splitter like this so you can just run wires to your ECU/gauge/etc without chopping up a harness or something like that, the important part is to get as close to infinite impedance as possible on the new wiring so as not to disturb the existing electronics that need that sensor as well:

RBs already take ages to get the oil up to temperature when I stare at the gauge and that's in a pretty temperate climate driving the car gingerly to warm it up. Can't imagine having it take even longer without the OEM heat exchanger. Obviously for a full race kind of deal there's no point in having one, the N1 cars deleted all of that in favor of having an air cooled setup mounted in front of the radiator. I have wondered for a while now, what's keeping people from using a very high impedance analog input to sample the OEM sensor instead of adding more sensors that clutter up what is already a very cramped area of the engine? The gauge reacts very slowly obviously but is the same true of the actual sensor itself?

Looking at this diagram it appears that number 1 is a vehicle speed output: Number 2 appears to just be plugged off with what appears to be a harness clip or something similar:

Just don't get bored with 300 kW, problem solved.