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joshuaho96

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Everything posted by joshuaho96

  1. joshuaho96
    R33s always, always rust there. If you really want a new panel it's 66100-15U30.
  2. joshuaho96
    Your best bet to get them for a halfway reasonable price is probably to pray Garage Yoshida gets around to getting the stamping dies made for replacement sills. They did the same thing for the discontinued R33/R34 front strut towers:
  3. joshuaho96
    I see them discontinued in some sites but not others. Not sure what's up with that. As long as people are still selling new ones it'll depress the price of used ones.
  4. joshuaho96
    Make sure the TP limit settings are sane for your load scale, I don't really expect it to have been messed with but you never know.
  5. joshuaho96
    Aren't -9s discontinued? Probably could get a solid 80-90% of what they went for when new if they have very little use on them.
  6. joshuaho96
    That will do it yes.
  7. joshuaho96
    Judging by the damage on the back it's been touched before but normally a chipped ECU will have a big glob of epoxy on it to keep people from being able to dump the ROM. So if it is chipped it isn't by someone that is all that concerned about things like that.
  8. joshuaho96
    https://sci-hub.se/https://doi.org/10.4271/03-12-01-0001 Methodology to me seemed sane, up to you whether you believe the Q factor metric they used to decide the best performing though.
  9. joshuaho96
    Mega thread bump but I found an SAE study where someone actually bought a ton of air oil separators and catch cans and tested them to see their pressure drop with respect to flow rate and filtration efficiency. The ProVent had comparable pressure drop to the catch cans with mesh/filtration media in the 50 mbar range when wet while achieving dramatically higher filtration efficiency. Crankcase ventilation seems to be a major problem with the RB and I suspect having the right kind of crankcase filtration will go a long way to helping things.
  10. joshuaho96
    If you have verified that the master and slave cylinder are working as expected all I can think of is something is wrong with how the clutch was put together. Either that or you somehow have a pressure plate so strong that it's damaging everything and you should probably stop using it before you destroy your thrust bearings.
  11. joshuaho96
    It's probably multiple issues, not just one. Check for vacuum leaks and boost leaks as others have mentioned. Also, generally speaking diagnosing issues in an EFI car without logs from the ECU is going to be a lot of wild guessing.
  12. joshuaho96
    There have been more than a few GTRs imported to the US where people blew up their engines running 91 AKI with a Mine's or similar Japanese chip tune. I suppose that proves the point though.
  13. joshuaho96
    I would also recommend whatever you do you get cams that retain the NVCS. Being able to swing the cam even if it's fixed 15 degrees of advance is well worth the effort.
  14. joshuaho96
    8.5mm is designed to be drop-in, probably won't be anything much to write home about but it will presumably do something.
  15. joshuaho96
    The seller wanted 530k for it. Couldn't make this up if I tried.
  16. joshuaho96
    https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1999-nissan-skyline-gt-r-9 Good for a laugh, the 315k bid sounds like an inside job to try and generate hype but I don't think they were expecting people to have eyes.
  17. joshuaho96
    But how? I don't see a stage 20 kit available that guarantees 1500 whp
  18. joshuaho96
    1100 lph is wild overkill for most applications, Deatschwerks has a 440 lph brushless with install kit for S14/S15 Silvia and comparable vehicles.
  19. joshuaho96
    I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder.
  20. joshuaho96
    I'm confused, isn't the flow rate at a given oil pressure determined by the engine rather than the pump fitted to it? I would guess that a high flow pump will just mean more oil pressure at idle but not necessarily more oil pressure otherwise. Assuming it was already hitting the oil pressure limit for the regulator.
  21. joshuaho96
    Yeah it was a little confusing as stream of consciousness. To be clear I’m referring to a failure in a NEO turbo where you have another MAP sensor or something similar teed with the OEM MAP sensor for whatever reason.
  22. joshuaho96
    It will work when it works, the problem is what happens when it doesn't work. The failure mode of the FPR hose popping off is bad news if you get into boost. If you tee it off the factory boost gauge instead in most RBs it's just a gauge instead of being used in the ECU. Even in the turbo NEOs the failure mode is not as bad as it would otherwise be, the ECU uses MAFs primarily and the MAP sensor is mostly for transient handling and overboost protection.
  23. joshuaho96
    Do not T off the fuel pressure regulator. I hate this practice. With the OEM setup there are two points of failure where the hose can slip and cause a catastrophic lean-out. If you T the hose you have added 4 additional points of failure. If you have to use a boost/vacuum reference, it's best to tee off the same line that the OEM boost gauge runs off of.
  24. joshuaho96
    https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/engine/211/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/electric/278/ The hose on the left closest to the firewall is a heater core pipe. It also goes to the oil/coolant heat exchanger and the throttle body. The hose it attaches to is 92400, which is the upper heater core hose. The one to the right of that goes to the lower heater core hose. In the absence of proper photos at each step showing how everything is laid out from the factory the EPC is as good as it gets.
  25. joshuaho96
    Good to know, they looked identical but I'm always reluctant to say whether they are truly identical if the part numbers don't line up.
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