joshuaho96

It’s more about modernizing the engine where possible. Reducing the wall wetting should improve transient response and emissions.

I really want a split spray injector to match the two intake valves. The easy route would be the 980cc 040 injectors that are everywhere but those are single cone. I thought maybe I was wrong about that when PRP claimed they weren’t the other day but I checked again to be sure. The difference is going to be minuscule but I’m pretty sure doing the math it won’t take too much of a bump in fuel pressure to have plenty of injector headroom. The main attraction for brushless IMO is no derate in lifespan for high ethanol use, lower power draw for more alternator headroom, and seemingly a flatter flow rate vs output pressure curve. I do wonder if the DW440 brushless will be any good or if I need to go searching for a better option. I don’t really need a ton of flow but I don’t want to worry at all about whether I’ll run out of headroom from excessive fuel line losses. Even 440 lph is likely too much flow for my purposes. I thought we established this with the choice of turbos no?

I’m definitely curious about going a similar route in my R33 once I have time to start messing with the fuel system. I really want to try running 997.1 Turbo EV14 injectors and a 440 lph brushless pump for an E85 conversion. I figure my comically tiny turbos should be enough of a limiting factor to get by on ~630cc injectors if I bump the fuel pressure enough.

The real test as with anything is going to be running on track pulling high Gs. I’ve heard the R32s especially have problems with fuel starvation if you run the tank too low.

As mentioned earlier in the thread there are three distinct injectors used in the VQ35DE, I recommend you match against what you have based on your VIN.

I would still try and pull the ABS codes, it's possible they're still in memory but not actively lighting the malfunction lamps. The ECU codes IIRC work similarly, even if the error goes away you can still read them via Consult with a counter indicating how many times the code was triggered. Intermittent issues like that would make me want to pull out the control unit first and foremost to check for dead caps. All of these cars are super old now and electrolytic capacitors all eventually fail on a long enough timeline.

When it comes to injectors aftermarket isn't really any better. You just need to find the right injectors for the stock tune. Keep in mind that according to the EPC the Unisia JECS injectors are not necessarily the right injectors for your car, it could be a Bosch injector or something else:

Sounds like code 17 is just telling you to retrieve actual codes from the TCS/ABS control unit. You can either do it via Consult or by grounding the following pin with the key on but the engine off. Do not touch the brake pedal when pulling codes. To clear the code after fixing things is going to take the following tap code if you don't have a Consult: It sounds like code 44 is referring to a circuit signal integrity issue on pin 16: There's a diagnosis tree but a lot of it calls for checking what kind of signal you get on the Consult. NDS1 does not support reading ABS codes or data unfortunately. I highly recommend getting the R34 Skyline service manual to help figure out what's going on here. It's possible your ABS control unit has given up the ghost and is spewing nonsense over the bus which is causing the ECU to throw codes. Also possible there's a harness failure between the ECU and the ABS C/U. I'm not omniscient so you're going to have to be the one to see whether it's a harness problem or maybe you need to recap your ABS control unit or something else.

That’s what I would do but it sounds like he doesn’t want to send them out for refurb and wait. Either way it does take some time.

VQ35HR and VQ35DE use different injectors. DE calls for a 4 hole EV6ES format injector that flows 306 cc/min manufactured by Unisia JECS. The HR revision calls for a 12 hole Denso EV14 format injector shared with the QR25DE. The link you show is very likely fake R35 injectors which are not a direct fit and will require retuning. Even if you found another 306 cc/min fuel injector that fits the fuel rail and intake keep in mind that you need identical spray pattern and injector latency in order to have proper behavior. If you want to run higher flow injectors for whatever reason real R35 injectors are only sold through Nissan with part number 1660038B0A which are more like 180-250 USD per injector instead of 260 AUD for a set of six. If you have no particular attachment to Denso EV14 style injectors the Bosch 997.1 Turbo injectors are sold under p/n 62379. Bottom line, if your goal is to just get your car running again for the least money as quickly as possible buy the Injector Planet refurbs. If you want to save some extra money ask if you can send in your old injectors and have any of the usable ones applied as credit against the refurbs. It only saves 7 USD per injector but it sounds like you want to minimize cost.

Generally speaking you mail them out to a specialist who will test all of them and tell you what can be saved and what was beyond fixing. If you cannot be bothered to deal with that you can buy them for a price of ~54 USD per injector from Hitachi which owns Unisia JECS and therefore these should be OEM equivalent: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5428377&cc=1431956&pt=6224&jsn=813 If you want to go even cheaper these are supposedly remanufactured used replacements: https://www.injectorplanet.com/products/unisia-jecs-fbjc100-nissan-16600-5l700

As far as I can tell the front crossmember and rear diff under the main case is explicitly designated as the floor jack point. I use a rubber pad and try to make sure the car isn't loaded with a bunch of random garbage. As far as I can tell it works fine. If it's listed in the factory service manual presumably they've done some math and made sure there's an adequate safety factor. The F80 M3 rear diff is truly impossible to put a floor jack on:

The jack is garbage. There's no control when releasing the jack so it crashes down hard on the jack stands. My 60 USD Harbor Freight chinesium jack is better in that regard. The design of the saddle is also awful. It doesn't engage the pinch weld properly so it's still going to crush it. The whole thing is a huge finger crushing hazard because you have to manipulate the jack stand to get it into the cutout. I agree the jackpoint stand looks a lot better but they're all super expensive and are really only necessary for cars where the engineers shrugged and decided there was no need to put in a factory-approved central floor jack point. The F80 M3 is one of those cars where I'm genuinely debating whether I should buy a set because the logical rear jack point (rear diff) has fins running all along the bottom and the lower control arm mount works but is still annoying.

Either way, just bending it back once may be good enough but I certainly wouldn't want to find out what happens with repeated bending.

Bending them back is possible but it will work harden the metal guaranteed. To avoid that you need to anneal with heat but that's a can of worms involving heat treatment and all of that fun stuff. The problem with completely bent/folded sills is that even if you don't bend them back they almost certainly will have lost strength because it starts rusting easily. Theoretically the correct way to fix this is to reconstruct the sill like so: https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/1926 The other "correct" way is to drill out/cut the old welds for the sills and replace them with a new OEM assembly but those are long discontinued unfortunately. I have folded over the pinch welds on my LS400 learning the lessons I'm talking about now (never buy a Powerbuilt U-jack, those things are garbage) but in my case the fold wasn't too bad so I just used some pliers to bend it back and call it a day. You may not be so lucky.

Even a stock R33 GTR can get ~12 L per 100 km.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ It's not that complicated but I still see a lot of cars with severely damaged pinch welds.

True, but it’s also not unusual for people to own and drive HD diesel or gas trucks which actually have comparable ground pressure.

I follow the factory service manual for floor jack points and jack stand points. So yes, I use the pinch welds. Keep in mind I have an R33 which has stronger pinch welds I believe. I haven't had any problems with using the pinch welds for jack stands but I never use my floor jack on it and I always take my time to make sure it's 100% lined up and drop it slowly onto the jack stands with the pinch weld adapter. The nature of the geometry means it's not very tolerant of mistakes. The reinforced section where it is safe to place a jack stand is pretty narrow, they're pretty explicit that you must put it between the two notches to avoid bending the floor pan. Hummer EVs are north of 4000 kg these days and they're totally legal to drive with a normal driver's license here. It's right at the limit of what a standard 2500 psi concrete slab is rated for in most US residential construction so there's no way going thinner and adding foam filler will be enough.

How would you even safely park things like EVs on that?

I use those rubber blocks for my jack stands but they aren't the right adapter for something like a 2 post lift. For those low-rise lifts specifically they have these blocks for them: https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/pinch-weld-blocks/ I use those rubber pads on my jack stands all the time. My pinch welds are fine and I try really hard to line up the jack stands and slowly drop the car onto the stands to avoid damage. It's one of the lowest points on the car so it works fine as long as you're careful about it which from what I can tell most people aren't.

Unfortunately no, I'm still stuck figuring out CA emissions compliance. I do have data on my specific OEM RB26 injectors but that's not super helpful for anyone else.

The pinch welds are fine if you use the correct rubber adapters and you aren't leaving hundreds of pounds of bricks or whatever in the trunk. The reason why they crush is people use a floor jack on them without the correct adapter or they use the floor jack with the wheels stuck in the crack between two pads and apply excessive thrust force to the pinch weld. Or they use jack stands without the appropriate adapters mentioned in the manual and let it fall too quickly onto the stands. The Japanese OEMs are a lot better about this stuff than the European or American OEMs I find: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2017/10/r32-nissan-skyline-jack-points-jacking.html

It doesn't. Tommy Farrell/Tommyfyeah is probably the closest thing to a dedicated R-chassis vlogger and there's been a lot of credible (IMO) allegations that he's been borrowing other people's money without repaying them in order to keep his shop running. Paying customers complaining that he took their cars and money and proceeded to let them sit outside in the rain/sun/snow/salt for 6+ months, the list goes on. The people doing good work rarely have the time to be making 20-30 minute videos every other day. The number of people interested in the finer points of a steering rack rebuild is slim to none compared to a walkthrough of a new car. Practical Enthusiast is one of those channels and he makes it clear all the time that the videos are purely for his own enjoyment. The cost of making videos is far in excess of any revenue he receives.

The basic concept is fine but I've seen people mention issues with things like cylinder distribution especially because most manifolds are designed to split air evenly but not liquid. That and issues like injectors clogging, how to avoid damaging the system if you leave the car outdoors in freezing conditions with 100% water in the lines, valve stem/cylinder bore wear from water washing away engine oil, etc. I still think a lot about adding an Aquamist setup to the RB26. Water injection to me is a great idea but it definitely requires a lot of thought, as much as any fuel system. Being able to replace boost enrichment with water injection instead is something I'd really love to do.