joshuaho96

It's "wrong" by the standard of what the latest engines are doing. 10 years ago your setup was best practice. Most likely your engine builder/tuner just sticks to what they know and haven't bothered to try anything different since then. I am also still not sold on single turbos being the "correct" setup for all situations. Admittedly -5s are about the power level where they don't make sense anymore.

Reverse bleeding probably won't work as well as one would hope, you need absolutely zero air around the threads of the bleeder and at the entrance into the bleed nipple as well or else you're going to be pumping air bubbles through the lines. I don't know if the ABS module needs to have the solenoids activated as well, I figure if the older R32 could just be bled passively you probably can just use the motor + pressure in the master cylinder to flush bubbles out with sufficient flow velocity. Really is a shame more cars don't have something like the Toyota Prius' invalid mode which triggers the ABS pump for you when you press the brake pedal for thorough bleeding without a scan tool. ABS pumps also flow a ton of fluid compared to just simple pressure at the master cylinder. Also, if you really want to pay for a scan tool supposedly the Launch X431 scan tool supports the Skylines if you get the 14 pin OBD1 adapter, I would try it myself but my car is hundreds of miles away from me at the moment:

I believe Consult-2 also works. Unfortunately Nissan did not implement a way to manually run the ABS motor by jumping a wire in the diagnostic connector or put a bleeder on the module block itself. Someone else can jump in if I read the FSM wrong but there is only mention of how to clear codes without a scan tool. So if you don't have a scan tool you need to somehow jump pin 5 on the ABS actuator module to ground without disrupting the other connections with a momentary switch:

Yes, you test after the fuel filter.

Wasn’t there just a Motive video where it demonstrated that shorter runners means a higher turbo threshold? I would not make any change that reduces the length of the intake runners. Personally I’m curious to know how the Plazmaman upper plenum intake compares with the Rajab take on the design which reduces plenum volume but increases runner length.

High-flowing a stock turbo correctly means you machine the housings to have the correct profile and have a proper match between turbine and compressor. This means there isn't excessive backpressure causing internal EGR at high RPM. This may be the "rumor" you've heard about. It won't necessarily blow up an engine with proper tuning but it will reduce how much power you can make. Proper balancing and machining is also critical. Chinese turbos like Mamba/Pulsar/etc are all generally speaking going to have larger gaps between the compressor/turbine wheel and the housing because they aren't confident in their machining and process control which means worse performance even if the general profile and everything else is supposed to be comparable. Greddy I have a hard time saying for sure but Tomei turbos are generally unpopular because they tended to make for laggy engines. They worked just fine otherwise but from what I can tell there were better options for the money. Hypergear is the way to go for that reason IMO. Only reason why I didn't get a Hypergear turbo was to try the HKS GTIII-SS.

Pretty sure that's called a fender brace? I bought one of these from Nagisa Auto but never got around to installing it. Makes me wonder if there will be noticeable effects then if you replace the strut tower with a higher tensile strength steel version like the Garage Yoshida strut towers. It'll keep it from rusting, so surely in the long run that'll help things.

If the body itself has started leaking and it's not a leak from where it seals at the fuel rail you need a new injector, most likely corrosion/time has eaten away at the internals.

Chinese turbos have a tendency to be defective out of the box. It sounds like you’re budget limited so I recommend rebuilding the stock turbo: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

Yeah, I told the owner to test the wastegate manually with a shop compressor and regulated air feed or some equivalent pressure source. We'll see how it goes I guess.

As far as I can tell it's there is no wastegate solenoid anymore. I'm pretty sure that the brackets that hold the OEM solenoid on are also gone. The boost reference line is still hooked up like factory though, plenum line appears to go down to the combination vacuum + coolant pipe underneath. Checking the exhaust side of the engine it looks like the hoses are hooked up to the factory positions, both the wastegate line and the pre-compressor vent line. I couldn't get a clear view of the back of the engine because the autobahn88 hoses aren't clipped down or anything like the factory setup.

I'd have to check again but I'm pretty sure the light switch is in the trunk lid. Why that is I couldn't tell you.

Pretty sure there's no lock solenoid on the R33 for the trunk, just the cable and the key bellcrank hitting the latch. It's either for a brake light or the switch that activates the trunk light.

Ok, so I guessed right. Supposedly this car has -5s on it with the stock tune/ECU. Stock fuel injectors I confirmed personally. The owner told me it didn't start coming off the truck and when I checked it cylinder 4 is misfiring even at idle.

I haven't looked at weird things people have done to RBs before so I don't really know what to make of this. Looking at the vacuum line just above the oil filter it looks like it's looped back on itself. Checking the vacuum diagram I'm pretty sure both ends of the loop are supposed to go to the OEM boost solenoid. OEM boost solenoid is nowhere to be found but the harness connector is still present and doesn't appear to be modified, couldn't find any boost solenoid at all. Wouldn't this be equivalent to 100% duty cycle on an OEM solenoid without the restrictor? Thankfully this isn't my car.

Presumably the main concern is breathing under boost, so just reference how something like a nismo oil separator is plumbed up.

Can't you just use a dash tablet/double DIN head unit for this stuff? I feel like I've seen people doing exactly that for these cars with a standalone ECU.

If it didn't lean out catastrophically then it's probably an unrelated issue and you're fine.

I need to check precisely how this stuff is all set up again but I'm pretty sure that the throttle body port for the vacuum signal is a "weak" signal, at least in the RB26. I'm not sure exactly how it works but you absolutely cannot plug in an FPR vacuum line into it for example. So even if you're running 35 psi of boost in the manifold I'm pretty sure it doesn't just immediately pop the bottom cap off and shoot the contents towards your feet as if you shoved 150 psi into one of the ports.

The central locking looks like factory, the transponder is for a separate immobilizer.

If you're confident that you have proper compression/spark timing and it isn't your FPR you can pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning/testing.

I think we’re in agreement here. To me it’s more about reducing cost/risk. If you know you’ll never need more flow you can get the stock injectors with the factory binning. If you do need the extra flow though a good decapped EV14 is fine.

As far as injector choices go I recommend staying with unmodified injectors if you don't need the extra flow, usually high-flowing injectors is done by removing the diffuser plate which impacts atomization and spray pattern especially because these aren't air assisted injectors.

You can definitely make an adapter, I just don't know that anyone has one readily available.

The thread size is identical but as far as I can tell you will need a harness adapter. Keep in mind part of the reason why people relocate the IAT is that the stock position will heat soak so you will probably want an insulating washer on the IAT at least. Nissan deliberately put the IAT there because the goal of the original sensor was to detect heat soak and enrich the mixture in response. Also, the "retune" will just be changing the temperature vs voltage calibration table in the tune.