joshuaho96

I’m doubtful on that one. Those cars had a completely different VIN structure and the plate was still blue: https://gtr-registry.com/en-r33-gtr-v-spec-great-britain.php#VINPlate

No, it's not possible to have that plate from the factory. Someone likely defaced the old one which is pretty easy to do if you aren't careful and had that replacement installed. It's hard to say what the provenance of that VIN plate is. It matches stuff like the Y34 and other Nissans of the era.

Not sure it was the exact same engine but UP Garage doesn't really do bespoke builds, they claimed it was all their VCAM Step 1 package and about the same weather. I believe the M7655 and GTIII-SS was back to back though. If you check their site this is what they mention, they probably used the 850cc SARD injectors for those runs but they've transitioned to the Bosch 980cc injectors since then as Denso discontinued it:

Quite a lot had to be removed to make room for that dry sump tank though, I dunno if I'd call that practical. For me to go dry sump I'd want it to be able to fit into an otherwise stock engine bay with no deletes or chopping up the chassis/discontinued parts. Until then I suspect the best I can do is try all the PCV tricks suggested in the oil control thread.

Didn't the official AU market R32 GTR get a transfer case cooler? Probably overkill for most people but some engineer somewhere decided it was necessary in some operating conditions and somehow everyone was convinced this was important enough to make a special modification for it.

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2019/06/nissan-skyline-hot-shifter-hot.html?m=1 If you drive gently and you pay attention to finer details like making sure the tires have all the same diameter it’s not an issue. But even if you do take care of that if you’re regularly driving for hours like you’re on an unlimited autobahn for YouTube clicks then it is possible to get some binding and weirdness from the transfer case. I have had some people in my area mention running into this problem. Whether it’s because they need new tires or something more fundamental I couldn’t tell you.

Transfer case cooler is probably most likely to be required, I've known people that have had issues with it getting hot and locking up just from extended highway/expressway driving.

Aren't the UP Garage results "real world"? The trouble is I've yet to see anyone else reproduce their numbers at the low-end. With their Spectrum Motorsports DR500 turbos they're claiming 18 psi by 3000 RPM while making 350 kW to the wheels: https://www.facebook.com/upgarage/videos/697436427734626

I still have a hard time explaining away this post, maybe some day I'll be able to get my car on a dyno with a proper tune to figure out if this is remotely achievable:

Have you seen the rats nest of hoses under the intake manifold of an RB26? Stepper motors for idle control is far too elegant. On the bright side at least the power steering idle up on these motors isn't a physical valve that can start leaking power steering fluid into the intake with age.

This is from UP Garage in Washington, they seem to like the HKS turbos for some reason. They reliably claim that the GTIII-SS is the most responsive turbo you can get for a factory bolt-on twin turbo. The trade is the least amount of power you can get from any turbo other than the factory ceramics. I also saw this chart from someone that ran the GTIII-RS turbos in Japan: I think it's pretty fair to say most people here really don't like the HKS GTIII turbos though, they are a pretty old design compared to something like an EFR7163. While new turbo tech helps a lot if you're a weird person like me and you've mentally put yourself in the design corner of "must be bolt-on turbo" and "must be as small as possible to reduce turbo lag" then HKS is pretty much the only game in town now other than the tried and true Garrett options sold by GCG Japan and others. Almost nobody has experience with the Tomei T550Bs, I recommend asking Tommy Farrell as I think he's had some customer cars use those turbos.

I strongly doubt that there will be any differences other than map revisions and minor board revisions.

This is for the R33 GTR but I can't imagine the routing is going to be dramatically different as the placement of the critical components seems to be mostly the same. 36 is the AC pressure switch. Goes towards the driver side near the headlight and then up towards the relay/fuse box which has the AC relay. From there it goes into a grommet in the firewall into the driver side which then goes into the spaghetti inside the dashboard until it gets into the back of the AC unit. It also is connected to the ECU harness somehow too, probably to help with AC idle-up. Edit: Interior body harness looks like this:

Pretty sure the T51R mod affects the compressor map and probably not in a positive way.

For a single throttle body there's no real need for a MAF. Haltech Elite supports both. If you want to keep the MAF in place to help you tune though that can help quite a lot with part throttle setup. At steady state in a load cell you can empirically derive volumetric efficiency with a MAF. GM's ECUs can use this data to help with transient throttle too.

Check the battery voltage and compare with the number you get in Nissan Datascan. If it's substantially different you got problems. Look up the factory wiring diagram for the power feed to the ECU and check for voltage drop across the wires/relays. I bet your ECU is browning out when you try to crank. Try running Nissan Datascan logging while cranking. If the data stream dies you have a problem. When I try doing this on my car as long as the battery is charged it won't brown out and I will see all consult parameters during crank and the moment it kicks over.

Only pull the turbos for service if there's shaft play or obvious oil/coolant leaks coming from it. Ball bearing turbos should have basically zero shaft play. Journal bearing may have a bit of shaft play but only for oil clearances. If you have a boost leak you should test for it first instead of just guessing.

Sits somewhere between the GTIII-RS and GTIII-SS, one thing a dyno chart can't show you is the effect of bearing drag on transient response.

That will definitely be part of your problem. Did you pull any plugs after cranking to see if they were wet?

Definitely at least better than the ARMS M7655, totally worth it.

Who would ever pay 3k for a set of journal bearing turbos because they might be miraculously better than an older ball bearing turbo for mid-range torque? Definitely not me. I would never buy snake oil like that.

The price is nuts if you want them to do it end to end: https://www.organizedgaragestatus.com/product-page/4nr33prcfqprde

You could retrofit some rectangular Mini D2S if you have the appropriate brackets, end result looks something like this, just ignore the weird carbon fiber stuff they added to the housing:

Your battery voltage is super low, should be more like 12V. Take some logs while cranking the engine and post them here.

DSport calling out the difference between Tomei JP and Tomei USA head gaskets is pretty interesting, I already heard about differences but I didn't know to what extent.