joshuaho96

I am skeptical that your HKS turbos are the Garretts they rebranded for a while. If you want a "simple" turbo I recommend the GT2860R-7. Nismo resells these turbos as the R1 turbo kit, they have released an R3 turbo which supposedly yields slightly better response. These were the ones used in the R34 N1 cars which will do around 450-500 crank hp. The only turbo I know of that is smaller than these N1 turbos is the HKS GTIII-SS. It is a journal bearing Mitsubishi turbo so nothing special. If you want the absolute simplest solution then stock ECU + R34 stock ceramic turbos are my recommendation. No tuning required at that point.

If you want huge power and you don't want to deal with the engine being taller and all the pain that entails: Then the answer is 2.8 + VCAM. You need every bit of VE you can to spool the turbos.

The HKS GTIII-RS is so good that Subaru put it in the S209. Ringing endorsement really.

No, the ATTESA system monitors front-rear speed differential. It uses the 4 wheel speed sensors in the axles to do this. All tires need to have even tread depth and similar pressures to not cause problems with the system.

anything, anything but that on a 2.6L.

I don't doubt that Nitto has made a kit that works and is fit for purpose. For me it's just about keeping things simple and my intended purpose generally being a weird one. Why change variables unless I know that it's actually necessary to? A shorter rod ratio does have some advantages but these are all short rod motors. The only question is the degree. The RB26 is already a factory stroker, there's some documentation out there that it was meant to be a 2.4L until a late change to 2.6L. The RB30 is what I'd consider long rod. I don't ever intend on selling my car. For OP I think it's clear they want a lot of power so getting to what I think is a fairly low rod ratio is acceptable. If they're ok with a lot of rejiggering to get an RB30 block to fit then I think that's probably a better approach though.

Right, it pushes the pin up higher in the piston which has its own compromises. Personally after thinking about it I just ended up deciding against a stroker and instead picked a turbo that is barely even big enough to use on a 2.57L engine.

I don't even think piston speed is a concern compared to rod ratio on the RB26 strokers. But even a 119.5 mm conrod length 77.7mm stroker still has a 1.54 rod ratio which is pretty close to what Honda was doing for a while, the B18C has a 1.58 rod ratio. EJ25s have a rod ratio of 1.65 but their block integrity is so poor already that any stroke increase is not recommended on those engines. The reason why everyone goes RB30 these days is the bump in the height of the block allows for a much longer connecting rod, even an RB34 has a 1.62 rod ratio which isn't far off from the 1.65 the RB26 is running stock. The problem with an RB30 build is of course packaging that extra height. Everything is subtly off and requires work to make everything fit properly again. If you want power you're going to want a 2.8L stroker at the very least to have halfway decent low-end response. From there pick a turbo that isn't going to take forever to spool. Personally I would probably get whatever is the single equivalent to the 2530/-5 category that'll get you into the 10 second quart mile range. RBs suck to build for big power anyways. You can do it, plenty of people at Cootamundra do but it's just a lot more effort than I think it's worth.

I don't disagree, my dad's Camry survived years with a bad O2 sensor but I still don't recommend running it that way. I do agree these cars are insanely expensive to fix up after decades of deferred maintenance and anyone not prepared for that should really look into getting something else.

I don't really recommend this mostly because if it does have a catalytic converter it will be damaged. Running rich tends to cause the cat to overheat. Also one of the critical indicators of something wrong with the engine is the O2 signal. It's a lot easier to infer something is wrong when your ECU is reporting 120 AF Alpha than if you have no O2 data at all.

I know this topic is extremely old. I am bumping this so future searchers will find this. The book spec for the front axle tie rod end lock nut is 29-39 N-m or 3-4 kg-m. There are multiple ball joints in the suspension. The lower ball joints on the "transverse link" the lock nut spec is 97-119 N-m. The nuts that hold them in have two different specs. The outer ball joint nut that attaches the ball joint to the steering knuckle has a torque spec of 72-97 N-m. The inner ball joint that attaches somewhere to the subframe I think has a spec of 63-78 N-m. The upper "third link" ball joint that attaches to the top of the steering knuckle is integral to the third link and attaches to the steering knuckle with a nut that calls for 148-186 N-m of torque. This is a big one.

The "sensor voltage" is not actually different if you're using the correct circuit to read it. The reason why the R32 ECU in an R33 application has a different calibration is because as mentioned before, the R32 O2 sensor is a variable resistor. In the R32 a controlled 1V reference voltage is sent across the sensor with a voltage divider and then the ECU measures the resulting voltage on the voltage divider to determine the O2 voltage. See this: http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt20.pdf Putting an R32 sensor on an R33 ECU will make it work improperly. The ECU does not supply the appropriate reference voltage and lacks the appropriate sensing resistor. You cannot use Nistune on an R33 ECU either. You will have to replace the O2 sensors which means swapping the exhaust manifolds to suit. My recommendation at this point is find an R32 GTR ECU and Nistune it to adapt to the turbos you have or go full standalone. Post what actual turbos you have, GT2860R can be a 400 whp turbo or a 500+ whp turbo depending upon the spec chosen.

I can't imagine idling a car for 10 minutes any time I want to go somewhere but I'm not really the target audience for a billet block anyways.

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2019/02/oxygen-sensors-r32-vs-r33-o2-sensors.html If you do switch the ECU out you need to change the O2 sensors. As mentioned in your previous thread you cannot run either ECU without a tune if you put GT2860R turbos on your car.

Garrett GT2860R turbos are not "pretty much stock". The -7s are about the same as an R34 N1 spec turbo. The -9s are like GT-SS turbos. The -5s are in the same ballpark as HKS 2530s. All of those flow significantly more than stock. You cannot run a stock ECU tune on any of those and expect to have good results, especially if you go WOT. The ECU is an R33 ECU. You will have to swap O2 sensors for it to work properly and possibly re-pin your O2 harness wires. The ECU map is almost identical save for minor revisions. Details count here and messing around with this stuff lackadaisically is a good way to blow up your engine.

Are you sure you don't have the neutral switch wired to the reverse switch? Could also be a DOA switch.

It's fixable, just get the rotor and pads scuffed/cleaned off with some sandpaper. Annoying but I wouldn't bother with new pads/rotors just yet.

Gotta be careful with brakes when it comes to washing cars unfortunately. I'm surprised that hard braking didn't clean the rust off though.

From what I see the difference isn't so much the temperature setpoint which is controlled by the bimetallic strip material but rather the engagement profile. Interestingly enough this pdf suggests that if they are dimensionally near identical then they should behave comparably: https://www.4s.com/media/3747/4s410-fan-clutches-standard-heavy-severe.pdf The danger supposedly is that if you have too much engagement from a "heavy duty" fan clutch then the fan could spin far too quickly and disassemble itself.

You cannot just slap any Garrett turbos on your car and expect to run the stock ECU. The range of Garrett's lineup spans turbos good for maybe 150 hp each to 600+ hp each. The efficiency of any bolt-on upgrade is substantially higher than the stock turbos and will make more power with the same boost. I don't know why people think it's ok to leave out critical information like this. OEM turbos you can run with the stock ECU whether the boost restrictor is in the hose or not. I can say with confidence that it does not take much to cause the stock ECU to exceed what it considers to be a safe amount of airflow. I have a pair of HKS GTIII-SS turbos on wastegate boost. These are tiny, tiny turbos that are only good for something like 10-13% more power than the factory turbos at roughly 15 psi. These are still enough to end up losing 5-10 degrees of timing if I go WOT even at roughly 0.9 bar of wastegate boost. Factory spec for an R33 is supposedly 0.85 bar. I do not go past 0.5 bar of boost indicated on the factory boost gauge currently to make sure I stay within the safe zone of the ECU map. The factory RB26 ECU is tolerant of questionable things like this, but only to an extent. Once you hit the end of the map you get something like 22 degrees of timing and roughly ~11:1 AFR. If it turns out that you need less timing than that for the kind of airflow you're getting you could easily destroy your engine.

Somebody ripped you off. You can buy the capacitors for 30 dollars even with some absurd shipping charge and then it's just a matter of doing a bit of through-hole soldering. I don't know how they could even have the conscience to charge that much when it doesn't even seem to work anymore.

Most Mine's ECUs require 100 RON. OEM ECU is a very safe tune that will be fine even with 96 RON. All bets are off if you have modified the engine substantially though.

Sure. If you're really afraid of running too much boost/unsure of whether the restrictor is in there you can either buy a replacement hose with the factory restrictor still or you can just unplug the boost solenoid while leaving the hoses all hooked up.

https://nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php?content=supportedadaptors It will be one of these. It is considered to be OBD1.

I'm not even sure the RB ECU looks at the MAF sensor when cranking. Verify that the ECU is getting ignition synchronization by checking whether it emits an RPM signal.