Tobz

Mine arrived today. I’ll give a further update once I install it

Got my 3D racing solutions cluster today for the IC7. Overall happy with the quality. Hopefully the fitment is good. The dash was delayed by 3 weeks, it it seems business for them has significantly increased during covid. I think this is cheaper than the mako dash at 275 posted, which is also recessed. I think mako charge 350 for a recessed dash. Also 3D Racing Solutions is located in Sydney

Don’t sell, imagine all those people who sold their old classic muscle cars and now want them back

SO far so good for me, sent them a list of modifications and photos, advised of the cost of the car and mods and got them to agree to a value. I guess i also want to know if anyone has actually made a claim and how they responded.

Go to Sydney/total tools, get a high quality cobalt drill bit and use a low speed on the drill.

Aaa ok cool. I was going to say, only place I found who does insurance on track is Famous car insurance, and it’s only up to $10k and only for cams events and it’s $500 a race... so totally not worth it.

Wait do you have insurance while you are on the track? Who is that through?

i havent seen one for sale for a long time

Thats whats confusing me, the supply seems constant by the numbers being sold, yet prices are increasing. So there are more people who want a skyline now then there was 2 years ago? Or the quality of the cars being sold is getting higher maybe?

Hey All, Thought some people may be interested in analysis conducted by tradeuniquecars.com.au. Looks like they do a yearly market analysis on classic cars, and have been tracking the value of used skylines. Its seems 2018/2019 prices remained flat and now there has been a significant uptick in value for some skylines (non GTR) 2018 - https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/buyers-guide/1807/nissan-skyline-1990-99-–-2018-market-review 2019 - https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/buyers-guide/1906/nissan-skyline-1990-to-1999-2019-market-review 2020 - https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/buyers-guide/2006/nissan-skyline-1990-to-1999-2020-market-review For example and R34 GT-T Coupe was 2018 - $20,285 2019 - $19,740 2020 - $28,100 GTR Price Guides are below: 2018 - https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/buyers-guide/1807/nissan-gtr-–-2018-market-review 2019 - https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/buyers-guide/1905/nissan-gtr-2019-market-review 2020 - https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/buyers-guide/2006/nissan-skyline-gtr-2020-market-review An example here R32 GTR (import) 2018 - $40,850 2019 - $56,370 2020 - $78,055 Whats also interesting is the number of sales each year have not reduced, so supply has stayed fairly flat, its the demand that must have gone up?

But of a boring update. We’ve fixed a hose that’s under the intake that fails pretty regularly. New rocker cover gasket, air con deleted, new belts, flywheel, sprung ceramic clutch, injectors, water pump, rear main seal, exhaust manifold, egr delete, oil cooler and relocation kit, new engine mounts and a very extreme clean as the engine was black af. this was a first for me and everyone in the team as we had never pulled an engine before. Overall was a lot easier than I thought, but it’s a lot of shitty little jobs. But having the engine and gearbox back in feels very comforting now we need to wire it all back up, pop in the new radiator and oil cooler and see what we stuffed up!

I think I may get a GReddy front mount at some stage that’s probably the next mod after the IC-7 dash

Ooo totally get that I’ve just got this craving to break 300. It’s not rational in anyway though. The car as it is feels really good and I would actually say is almost bang on. But can you ever really have enough. I’ll leave it as is for now and reassess in a year

cars on e85 but is loosing boost in the upper range. Starts at 20 and tapers to 16. Maybe your right and the 270 mark is where I should be happy as there is a bit of work involved for anything above it. But your right I’ll check the data to see next steps. im guessing once you move into the 300’s we’re talking headgasket, studs, rods & pistons? Been told just headgasket and studs is enough?

The dbw and throttle have all nee wiring going to the Haltech, takes 4 wires as the throttle has 2 position sensors and the throttle has 2 position sensors. That way it’s has a heap of built in redundancy. It’s very interesting to learn how it all works. This is my thoughts too. Reckon it’s better to go a lot or get something custom made? Is there t worth going forward facing, or stay with the cross tube? I’m guessing there is no way around it and not matter what I do, I need to drill?

Got the car back last night. Have to admit the car feels entirely different from before. Not sure if it’s due to the new Haltech 2500 replacing the adaptronic, the new tune or the DBW or a mixture of all 3. overall car drives well, power comes on early and it feels a lot smoother to drive. Have the Bosch 68mm dbw throttle body and what I believe is an xtrail dbw pedal. theres a small idle issue the guys will be working on to try and fix. It randomly just increases idle to 2200 rpm and then settles. But shouldn’t be too hard to sort out. Haven’t done anything special with the dbw yet. But playing with the throttle curve by itself is really good so i can get it working how i want. Also cold and warm starts are so much better. Also got a larger catch can. The old one was a bit small just from just jap, an ARC type can. The guys welded on some AN fittings for me. Also finally put the GTR brake master cylinder on. Felt lazy so got the boys on it now just need the IC-7 to arrive to finish it all off i am tempted to get a new turbo, head gasket and arp head studs. Car currently makes around 270rwkw but I’m not sure if it’s the turbo or intercooler holding it back. Tuner reckons it’s the turbo. Currently have the ATR45SAT BB turbo and a blitz return flow. I don’t love the idea of drilling a hole. But it may be required now also got my tein bonnet struts installed. Only took 5 mins and makes life so much easier!

There is another option, but its a lot of work. You can source a set of Evo5-9 front Brembos, a set of Evo X front discs & Alpha Omega Racing Brackets and Lines. Gets a you a fairly common pad compound (the pad is used on a lot of brembo calipers) and large 350mm discs that are common as its off an Evo X. About $545 for the brackets and lines from Alpha Omega $200 for front rotors ($500 for 2 piece Attkd rotors) $4-500 for the front calipers from a wrecker or eBay (+100 if you need to rebuild the calipers yourself) $100-500 on pads (obviously depends on what you want) I also would recommend a BMC upgrade I've done the front and rears using this and they have been really good for me on the track, I'm using Ferrodo DS Uno for the front on the track and DS2500's for the street and just Intima SR pads on the rear

Was rated to 2750 but ball weight was only 90! battery life was atrocious when towing. It’s the aerodynamics that kill it and not the weight

Just as an alternative, I used to have a Tesla Model X, full torque from zero rpm, was an amazing tow vehicle. Except range!!! Usually I could drive from Canberra to Sydney on a single charge. While towing it would add 2 hours to the trip in charging.... if the battery’s got bigger, this is defo the future. When I bought the Tesla I didn’t really tow anything, but that changed during ownership so I sold it off. Used a mates ute a bit as well and really enjoyed the practicality of a tray, especially for fuel! We also go away twice a year for the 24 hour of lemons and having a tray is amazingly useful. Took them all for a drive and really loved the amarok, especially due to the V6. Again barely notice the car and trailer is there. The car trailer is a dual wheel tilta which only weighs 500kg, has airbags and compressor to drop the whole thing down and makes getting the car on and off a price of piss. Best thing I ever bought!

I’ve got a 3D Racing Solutions dash coming on Monday hopefully. I’ll post results to see if they are any better.

i just got a V6 Amarok..... sometimes I forget I'm towing

@Unzipped Composites Yep ok totally worth it. I’m intrigued by the wheel slip indicator. How hard is that to program in? also with the auto blip does it do it just based off throttle and speed or does it also need a brake and clutch sensor?

Are you able to let me know why its miles better? Im defo doing it, and in my head i know i prefer DBW cars vs cable, but i dont know why

Currently has the adaptronic eMod006, which doesnt have any can functionality Ill be removing the stock cluster, but the guys assure me they can wire up the speed sensor and such to the IC7 DBW isnt really necessary but i figured if i have the capability to do it, and can remove the standard idle control systems, ill be a happier man.

Latest update is all engine management related. had a chat to the guys and have decided I am going to make some changes to the engine setup. I don’t think I’ll see any additional power but will hopefully gain some reliability and bring the car into the latest decade. ill be removing the adaptronic and replacing it with a Haltech 2500. I want to have better built in protection for when things go wrong so the car doesn’t rely on me to spot an issue. The haltech will also be wired in to the usual sensors plus a few additional such as fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp and afr. also upgrading the pump to a walbro 525 and adding a fuel regulator. finally I’m also going to get drive by wire put in. This isn’t really needed, but I like the flexibility I gain with this. to top it off I’ve got a gauge cluster being made by 3D racing parts and will pop a Haltech IC7 in there so I can see all the pretty data super excited for these upgrades! Just a 2 week wait on the ecu though