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Everything posted by Tobz

  1. Went to the dyno day today. Can now compare all dyno runs I know of. First is from the previous owner when it was first tuned in Feb 2017 from DVS (287kw) Second is from August 2019 (271kw) when I did a dyno day in Canberra at Autotech Services Final one is from the SAU dyno day today (305kw) at JEM I don't believe there was any changes to car between 2017 to 2019 other than an owner change Changes from 2019 to now are basically Haltech, external gate and a proper intercooler. It is also now running a bit richer now (afr went from! low to mid 12's from 2019 to low to mid 11's now). This is due to the car doing a lot of track work now. It isn't making as much power as I wanted, but I actually think this is fine, it comes on hard but stays super flat to redline. Very happy 20210522_102809.mp4
  2. i think my IC7 Dash print took about 2 months and that felt like a lifetime. I would have gone insane if it took over 5 months
  3. So many variables! It would be impossible to say for a few. If you can get a laser thermometer they are only $20 on eBay. Every tyre has its own sweet spot for pressure. What you want to check is the following for each tyre asap once you get off the track (a tyre pyrometer would be better but costs $$$) Inside temp Centre Temp Outside temp You want the temps to be even across the whole the tyre. If the centre is lower than the inside and outside you need to add more pressure. If the inside and outside is higher then the centre , then you need to remove psi If the outside is higher than the middle and inside you need more camber If the inside is higher than the middle and outside you need to remove camber. Suspension wise I run Front camber -2.5 Caster 9 degrees Tow 1.5mm out 350mm height Rear camber -1 Toe 0 340mm ride height. Usually I'll start with both front and rear shocks on the centre settings. Get the tyre pressures right first and then adjust as following: Try and work out based on feel if there is too much roll in the car, you need the car to roll side to side to generate grip, but also you need it to be nimble and also not roll so much that you run out of suspension. Hard to explain how you feel this after this I will then adjust per the following: Too much understeer (stiffen the rear or soften the front) Too much oversteer (soften the rear and stiffen the front) If the suspension is not getting to where you need then you can: Too much understeer (remove psi in front of add psi in rear tyres) Too much oversteer (add psi in front and remove psi in rear) Check your pressures after every run. This is critical! When you buy the tyres the dealer should be able to give you an idea on estimated warm pressures for your tyres. Remember these pressure are measured warm not cold!! Adjust from this base. For smsp I usually run the front a little stuff so it will understeer a little at the limit, gives me confidence for T1 knowing the rear won't snap
  4. For some reason it's trying to add shipping on checkout
  5. it gets more complicated than that as you also adjust what gear you are in based on the power available in rev band.... for example in my old RX8 i was always in lowest gear i could find so i was revving the thing out as much as i could as all the power is up top, now im using a few gears higher as all my torque is in the middle of the rev range. I guess theres a point that you will also adjust your driving based on the powerband...
  6. Mine finally got back on the road! Doesnt drive much though.. will be at the 11 April hill climb though
  7. It was a super solid base to work from! Love the little beast!
  8. i have a sandwich plate on another sandwich plate that is then on the factory oil cooler plate, doesn't seem to cause any issues....
  9. I used the crank motorsport seat subframes and just universal rails clearance was more than fine. Seats are a little hard but more than fine, nice bolstering. Overall I really like them
  10. Finally got the car back together and took itmfor a drive. Changes to the intercooler and external wastegate have changed everything. Before I was told the turbo was being restricted either by the intercooler or exhaust. Having swapped out the return flow and also going to an external gate has released the restriction It needs to be retuned as the power is defo coming on early, but also the ebc cannot control boost. Did a slow pull in second and the boost crept past 20psi which should be the limit. It's a Mac valve and a 14psi spring on the gate. Looks like it may need some setup done on it AFRs all looked good. Trying to organise a time to get retuned now. But overall so far I'm very happy Also added a 5inch body venom cat, installed some Sparco r100 seats and got the harness installed!
  11. its pretty obvious, the paint on the F40 was so thin that you could see the carbon fibre weave.... They didnt even paint the car properly. On top of that instead of making the car out of good strong steel, they used fibre cloth and glue..... who does that? And to access the engine, you dont just pull a lever and it opens like a well engineered AU, you need to unlock two latches, get a mate to help you lift it and then use a flimsy rod to keep it open, no gas struts! Then they were so lazy developing the engine that it needs a service every 5000kms! and its only a 2.9l not a nice 4l straight six or a 5l windsor V8... its so small and inferior! I have no idea why the F40 costs so much when an AU is obviously the superior machine
  12. Actually all makes sense now, I'm making up the same water line for mine and keeping the return as the stock item. For some reason I was picturing it wrong in my head and it all didn't make sense till I went back under the car just then
  13. Your new water return line, did you connect it to behind the head or did you cut the hard pipe and attach it there? EDIT: Hang on, how does the water line to your turbo work?
  14. Way I see it the front does 75% of the braking, the rears are just there for the ride... As such there's not much benefit upgrading as the original rears don't get all that hot either. For me I think it's mostly cosmetic. Alpha omega reckon the bias shouldn't be effected with either the stock or Brembo rears. saying that with the massive 350mm rear rotors the brakes are almost stone cold after a track session, they either do very little braking or the heat is dissipating really well from the increase in rotor size. I'm just not sold they are worth the additional $$$ Also never tried just the brembos on the front. But I'm sure others have
  15. I do highly recommend the attakd 2 price rotors at $500 though. Defo worth the extra dollars. There's some slotted and dimpled on eBay for 288 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Slotted-Pair-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-for-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evo-X-2-0L-Turbo-/154144900775?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 But for only slightly more, get the attakd Although not available atm usually there's a few sets of calipers on eBay for around 500 I run Feredo DS Uno pads, but there are lots of options if you aren't doing a lot of track work I also did the Brembo rears, not worth it, but I wanted it to look consistent front to rear
  16. I didn't think it would be much of an issue. But thought I would consult first
  17. New studs arrived and now the manifold fits perfect. Looks like the studs warped pretty badly, but the manifold didn't... Which works for me! Just need my new turbo studs and a silicone joiner to arrive and then it should be all back together. Also does anyone know what the effect of swapping to a proper cooler from a return flow, and going from an iwg to ewg would have on the tune? I'm getting the car retuned either way, but just interested to know if I can take it for a bit of drive to test everything is bolted up right (and get it on boost to see if all the couplers and such are all holding fine).
  18. Been lurking on carsales again.... just saw this and had to share. The car actually looks really clean and nice, but the way some people try and sell their car is absolutely terrible. Would it kill them to spend 5 minutes writing a small description on the car? I know i really want to buy this car as the family will love the rear sunvisors! 1996 Nissan Skyline GTS-T R33 Manual-SSE-AD-7000281 - carsales.com.au
  19. Interesting discussion. I have 285rwkw currently and when i got the car i struggled a lot for traction. I actually loved it as it was a lot of fun to keep it pointing in a straight line! Now im not 100% sure what got rid of it as a i did a lot of things at once, so one of these may be the key. Just not sure which: Changed suspension all round to MCA Blues (mid setting, its stiff, but not rock hard) Changed almost all my control arms front and rear and got a wheel alignment in line with the recommendations in this forum Pineapples on the rear subframe Locked the HICAS (If it was anything, I would bet it was this) Changed my front and rear swaybars to whiteline (from stock) Now the part that made no sense, I got some new 18inch wheels, but decided i would just reuse some tyres i had lying around for the street. They are 225/40 R18's and are Monster Street Series.... these are not the best tyres ever made and are ridiculously skinny for the power (i bought them as i needed to pass a rego inspection)... however somehow the car had traction.... no idea how! Once i have got the car moving, the rear does not break traction in a straight line and full power..... Made no sense to me so i went to a dyno to check the power to make sure the car actually made 280rwkw... thought something may be wrong, but second dyno had similar power. On the track i use 265/35 R18 Kumho V70a (Medium Compound) front and rear and i can be really aggressive on applying the power on corner exit... sooo i dont think ive helped here, but ive definitely added more things to read.
  20. Yer manifold was impossible to remove, used many breaker bars, however I have a replacement manifold from hypergear to go on. The new manifold may also be warped though as it's a stock manifold with an external gate welded on. I'll change the studs and see where that leaves me and then contact hypergear if there is an issue
  21. Only a few small updates, needed to block off the internal wastegate flap, managed to get this Cobb Racing part that looks pretty good! Having troubles getting the exhaust manifold back on. Both the original and my new one won't fit. I'm thinking the manifold studs may be warped, so have ordered some new ones and hopefully that fixes it!! It fits on the ends but not the centre studs for some reason.
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