Sheriff Wan

Well you can't win em all I guess. Dear Nissan, Try again.

Well now that I've read this from start to finish I'll comment: To ahjosh - your a knob. To the 34 girl - I think you may need to rethink the numbers, I know you say you have done "alot" of research and Im not doubting that. What I am doubting is the ability of a stroked 2.5L engine being able to produce 750Hp with a supercharger. Regardless of what you do during this rebuild it simply won't flow enough - and if it does it will last all of about 1 day running 40 psi. I don't mean any disrespect, but have you seen anyone get near these results with an RB25? or RB27? Best I've heard of is about ~200kw At the end of the day - your car and your money so do what you want. But when its done don't expect people not to say "I told you so" My 2 cents

Well I guess the guessing can stop now... How did you go Chris GTR26?

33's are the bug eyed WRX of the skyline bunch. /end thread

Well I don't know about you guys, but I'm going to get my motor rebuilt every 10,000kms because motor said so... COME ON... Do you really think they would make a car that would require a rebuild at 100,000k's in this day and age? Even if it does get wound up a little it will be fine - do you really think Nissan didn't anticipate every Tom Dick and Harry modding these things to within an inch of their lives? Jebuz a hyundai getz will make it to 200,000! and it doesnt even have plasma coated cylinders...

Note to self don't break into Space Goats car! I would booby trap your car - maybe rig up some capsicum spray or something so that if they open the door the get a mouthful of the stuff - then you can have your way with them. Just make sure you know how to "undo" the trap! Or you could sleep in your car. That should stop people trying to break in... Just my suggestions feel free to use either...

Damn bird - I hope you have his details...

Hahaha rev210 - you nailed it! I think you may have lost your Skyline love - as someone has already said - you make it your business to find the twisties. Thats like saying "why do you need such a fast car when you can only go 60 kmh!" I think you'll like the BMW, what about something like an S3... that in the same ball park?

Well I think I may be able to shed some light... CEF11E tuned my car and we made just a shade under 200rwkw at just under 1 Bar on my 20DET. I've been in his RB30 and it pumps, however, as he said its really only as good as the driver and you will need to do the other stuff to support the 30. My 20 is my daily and will hold its own with pretty much anything apart from the exotics, despite what some might say it is also quite responsive. So for the time being I reackon learn the 20, take it to the track and enjoy it - I guarantee it will not dissapoint and then when your ready to upgrade do the 30 ...

Well he did say in terms of shear performance, not in terms of anything else. For that the R32 has it all over the R33. Even still I don't imagine you would be visiting the 'ring in your GTR… so I think it will be much of a muchness... Maintenance never came into it - this has only been included to make R33 owners feels better (Its still a GTR relax ) If your looking to buy 1 of them and not just chat about which is hypothetically better you need to drive them both and decide on which one YOU like better, not what the guy next door says. My 2 cents

Oh My God! How lucky are you! What are you going to do with all that money? I'd be going and getting a loan in advance - you can just pay it off when the money arrives... 34 GTR here we come.... Whats the worst that can happen?

Ughh this is upsetting... You say you want a car with sex appeal and you go out and buy an Ford G6E turbo. That not being bad enough you then rat out an R34 GTR for being too dated and not value for money unless its less than $40k - have you driven one lately? Well if you can point me to a better sub $50k than a 34GTR be my guest - I think you will be hard pressed. EVO X and new STI - not bad cars if you like junk I guess... they both look hideous IMO. Even the makers themselves have explained they are trying to move away from the EVO's and STI's of old... As for your Ford, you'll be getting an auto and will be sick of going moderately quick in a straight line then hitting your window everytime you make a left hand turn due to their fantastic handling. Anyways these are only my opinions - I do wish you all the best with whatever car you choose, just don't try make it something its not...

PM Sent

You have PM Cheers

Cold engine qould give highest readout as all the oil is settled.

I would wait till you have the engine apart and measure the crank journals - if they have worn too much you wont be able to use it and or the bearings you buy may not be right... Sometimes it pays to wait. Same applies to piston sizes - if the borea are worn and require work the pistons may be the wrong size...

Have you even looked at this website before? I find it pretty hard to believe that there is no information on the following for an R33 GTSt... 1. Picking a garret turbo 2. Picking an ECU Start with the turbo upgrade section that will give you an idea about what works well. Really it comes down to what your tuner wants - talk to him.

Easy tiger - while it may be a bad idea to put the std turbos on a freshly built engine. I think we need to remember that these can and have travelled 100,000kms with no issues at all... He said he's only running 10psi and driving to and from work, I dont think this is a high risk situation... Last thing you wan GTAAAH is to go out and get into more debt when your not ready mate. My 2 cents (Flame suit is on)

I'd be looking at the ECU... sounds like you haven't had it tuned to your mods so its not going to respond very well... Get it on a dyno and tuned, AFR's are one thing - timing etc etc is a whole nother ball game...

Given your car was an NA it doesnt have alot of things that the turbos came with... Id be starting with spark plug gaps - try 0.8mm and you should upgrade the fuel pump - consider it cheap insurance. if that still doesnt work look to the ECU - 33's are notorious for not liking increased boost level when close to stock. Let us know how you get on with that.

^^ x2 If you haven't tried everything in that thread - which I'm sure you haven't why are you posting again? You have obviously damaged something and your not up to the task of finding out what it is... It's not like is going to be a plug that isnt in all the way or something! You drove through water, you said it was bonnet height... this is not good especially when the car is trying to suck it in!!! Bad news about the car, however, don't just post up another thread and talk about it some more - GO TO A MECHANIC and stop asking what it could be. We can keep guessing all day though if you like...

I think your on the right track, your not trying to set lap records or anything so just ensure the car is up to scratch as has been said check pads fluid etc etc and don't go over board. Get out there wether it's a driver training day or just a club day and have a blast! Drive within the cars limits and more improtantly your limits and you'll be fine. It's not like the track is going to force you to understeer or chew your tryes.... you do that yourself...

Hahaha loving it!! Talk about hand in the jar!

Maybe a little premature for a timing belt change... If the k's are genuine then you have nothing to worry about yet. Things to look out for are wear on the belt i.e. fraying etc Also it's quite a big job to do and you usually change the water pump and sometimes oil pump while your there as it saves the overall labour cost. Pretty $$$ though not sure of exact prices

How much power are you looking at making AND what are you looking to use the car for? If your going to be making well in excess of 500Hp and racing the car on the circut more than once a year get the 1000 and be done with it - taking off the A/C belt is a 5 min job. If your just building a street car get the 500. As mentiond above there are a few GTRs floating about with much higher outputs than 500Hp with these. Taking the belt off means that the crank doesnt have to drive the aircon - simply turning off the aircon doesnt stop the fact that the crank still turns the aircon belt = more work for the crank. Hope theat makes sense. Also as a side note - not a good idea to compare your car with Mark and Russells flat out race car....