Tangles

I currently run splitfires and BCPR6ES-0.8 got a set of BCPR6ES-1.1 to drop in, hopefully it will result in slightly better economy, etc

orly? beat no knees age matters not how does the stag go now with the cat-back? loud at all, droning? must go half decent up & around your Hills area

I just received the one I bought 2 days ago off ebay for $49.95 for S13, adjustable, but she's going to bloody well fit when Im done with it !!!!!!

RB25det stock cam shafts $100 p/up RB25det stock exhaust cam gear pulley - $50 del. RB25det stock turbo dump pipe & stock front pipe $50 p/up RB25det S2 coilpacks, stock, $60 del. 200cc Hummer 2006 dirtbike $500 good cond.

cheers mate ! yeah, as you know being so tall (201cm) and no kneecaps after 12 surgeries, its so hard to do stuff today Im in horrible agony ey. very very sore, didnt sleep a wink last night, knees are crying out. daytime pic

.... first was stock side-mount intercooler, then stock R34 smic, then Apexi 'Hybrid' medium sized 290x200 fmic, now a $45 trust 600x300 from moderator whatsisname (top bloke btw) put it on 2 days ago underneath the reo bar, but that was no good, far too low. today my 5mm wheel spacers arrived, $5ea billet aluminium very good quality, whacked them on each rim, and decided to redo the fmic install, going with what I had to work with. test driving afterwards proved that the wider wheelbase (10mm) makes the wagon track as it should, feels SO so good. had the front bar off in 5mins, and took mytime undoing each bolt clamp. grabbed the angle grider and cut 5mm in and across, just a 600mm long section where required. hung the cooler up with 2 fresh drill holes at the top of the reo (cooler had 2 top brackets, handy) and bolted it up, sturdy as can be. nice and square, regular-like. then bolted the pipes back together, starting at the airbox and worked my way across. used what I had (all lipped ends, 3ply joiners, bolt clamps) and seems to be pretty good. will run some aluminium mesh across the bottom of the cooler bolted to each cut corner of the dayz front bar had a quick hills run, no problems. needs some tyres and a wheel alignment in around a thousand kms tho. as said however the extra wheel base width suits the attessa so much ! awesomness~200 ! handles very well indeed, watch out this is one sharp wagon ! 230kw when tuned on the 12th at Boostwerks is my guess, using the sard extra injector and hks controller Tangles - boosting happily thru the twisties

my Stagea is the best motor vehicle Ive owned and that's after having a supremely worked cbr900rr fireblade......... said it a few times now in chats etc, best vehicle Ive owned. says a lot, really, considering for 10yrs weekend in/out Id do say 3-400kms, fast faster fastererer, thru the adelaide hills. the stag can keep me smiling while I attempt the same corners

depends how old you are...... wont be my last car far from it, however I did say upon purchase nearly 4yrs ago now that it would be a 10yr ownership car. now i say it'll still be mine for another 11yrs yet.... making it a 15yr ownership car then letting the kids do their learning in it. "worked" stagea = driving Nirvana; I totally agree. wouldnt swap my rs4 for a rs260 as by the time Im done with the modifications she'll out-surpass a rs260 anyways

the fmic will be re-set back and up, and Im going to make a carbon lower lip to remake the airdamn. alls good, trust me ! got a nice visual in my head, now to see it thru

cheers Gary ! having a tune in 2 weeks time (larger fmic), probably the last with the safc/sitc/Slide turbo setup - will look at V44, the ins and outs etc, and a gt3076r

ah Im going to grab a cheap $40 adjustable one (s13) and drill the ring connectors to suit fmic looks funneh, should photo it.... no camera tho, soz. sitting under the reo bar - big no more spotties and cut the bottom dayz lip off ooops

where can you get a rear inside cabin strut brace?

finished the big front mount, lol looks funneh - sitting tooooo low got to go back an inch or two, but that means re-lipping something I cant do here. grrrrrrr, still bolted up ok just yeah, too low atm. going in for touchup tune in 2 weeks so will get it fixed then; my knees cant be bothered atm in all honesty drives well tho

grab a chip ecu tune from Toshi here on sau you'll be even happier !! Im using the toshi ecu chip with safc and sitc... will be upgrading the slide turbo (225kw) to a gt2876r or gt3071r soonish~

for sure doing the fmic re-install atm, piss easy really, going to be a bit lengthy but never mind going from small apexi to large fmic. sweet almost finished

for sale: rb25det s2 coilpacks $50 for the 6 apexi intercooler $300 200cc hummer pitbike, 19f/16r rims, low usage (ie near new) battery start, lights, wrapped exhaust, spare flatslide carby $500 as is

makes me want to buy a rb26 twin manifold, modify to suit rb25, and bolt on 2x gt2860rs disco potato's manifolds $300 for new stainless rb26 pair plus old rb20 headers modify for $200 at most 3x 3' Y exhaust tubes $60 2x 5bolt Gt dump pipes $240 2x dual bb gt2860rs $1800 with lines welding and cutting work... so around two and a half grand (to 3 grand tuned & finished) would be enough for the above products...... bolt on manfold, bolt on turbos, use T junctions in water & oil lines, bolt on dump pipes, cut current dump pipe, weld 2x flanges onto Y exhaust piece and weld onto dump, join up exhaust use anouther Y exhaust piece to join up the 2x turbo intake to the afm and pod filter, and the other to join to intercooler. bit of metalwork and mucking around so you'll need some custom welding done, trial and error fitment... but thats my current thoughtline......................... uh-huh with all my work so far would make the rb25dett almost as good as a worked rb26dett, considering it'd be a $40k car all up @ end of project

on auto paul even with full plumback ater-market bov it will stall with blocked bov it will stall only ever occasionally but will do so you do the bov backing plate, put some small holes thru the centre of it, and it wont stall, but will be like option ©

yes!! coke can will do, but thicker metal seems less dodgy to me my centre-drilled bov block off plate is nicely filed and machined, 30min home project after a few bongs ey? !

yeah it will stall.... even with a full block off plate in the bov (for fulleh sik flutterz) it will stall. at low rpm, like braking to turn a right angle corner across lanes slow speed etc. aftermarket bov or blocked bov will stall with the auto..... so.. what to do? grab a piece of metal, thicker than a coke can preferably. grab the bov gasket, and cut metal to shape. Im using some .5mm thick aluminium plate. so cut to shape, drill 2x bolt holes, then with smaller drill bit drill a couple of small airflow holes - circular like in the centre for some minor airflow install nice and tight test drive, you'll still have the bov, but it will flutter a bit, boost feels "tighter" (?), because it isnt entirely blocked off it wont ever stall but sounds pretty cool (just like a $200 aftermarket bov, tried that) and boost pressure seems to be slightly more "on tap" than previously wife loves it, hated it when she stalled it, so I drilled the little holes in the middle of the block off plate and now it doesnt stall but flutters very nicely indeed hektic-br0

surprised you didnt grab a chipped one from yahoo japan. tested a S1 one recently, worked a treat, and the fella also had a S2 unit coming as well...... so they are around, used S1 or S2 ecu's chipped for Rom tune in Japan. grab one, use safc to sort out the tune on your own car, and go from there? around $300 a unit..... anyway best of luck

dey see me roll'n will be there.....

got no cash, cheers tho! doesnt smell, still does the job but is less restrictive. its still metalcore, still doing its job, but letting a little 'extra' through. thinking last night might run a split system, two pipe from cat with short one exiting at front of rear wheel

can it run automatic rb25? or run in piggyback style, due to auto ? cheers