Sydneykid

Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex. Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out. Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor. Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper. The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it. Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm). I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above. Hope that helps Cheers Gary

If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required. I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book. Cheers Gary

Hi, I have someone interested, if it falls through I'll let you know. I have a brand new set of fronts that I sourced from Bilstein UK, now revalved and complete with springs to go with the very lightly used rears, if you are interested in a full set. As Duncan has mentioned this is not my job, I sold my suspension business over 10 years ago, but I am here to help when I have the time. To give you some idea of my schedule I was at SMSP for the State Championship for 4 days the weekend before last. Then The Bend for 4 days last week and back at SMSP testing this week, a day visit to One Raceway, then the SMSP Day Night meeting the weekend after. I was hoping to squeeze in a dyno day with Scott on my R32 this week, but that's not going to happen, that's the second time I have had to postpone. Apologies if my responses are slow. Cheers Gary

I currently have someone who is interested in buying the rear set, plus he has asked me to quote him on an equivalent front set, new of course. I'll post up what a new set would cost and you can make a decision then. I noted a bit of discussion on spring rates versus swaybar rates, Duncan has explained my approach very well. What I would add is that if you have high spring rates then it is a PIA to change them if you want to, say, do a track day. Whereas with adj swaybars it's a much easier task. Plus if you find that there is an imbalance in the handling (oversteer vs understeer preference for you) it is relatively easy to change the balance with adj of the swaybars, again much more difficult with springs. On the race cars we don't change spring rates all that often, we do however change damper rates frequently, high speed vs low speed bump and rebound independently. A tuning task not for the inexperienced, driver or engineer. Driver adj swaybars are adj frequently, several times in 20 minute race is not unusual. Cheers Gary

Thanks Dunc, haven't seen you at a race track recently. Cheers Gary

Hi guys, I do have set of rear Stagea Gen1/2 Bilsteins revalved, only used as a test fit for a couple of days. They are height adj coil overs, used strut tops with new sphericals and Whiteline stacked springs, a helper/tender plus a 265lb main spring. If you need fronts I can still source them, but delivery is from Germany so not overnight. Cheers Gary

Mine has had some more work done, JE Pistons, Argo H beam rods, Jun cams, Blitz 4" intercooler etc and it's now a bit over 600 RWHP. Same crank, head, block, oil pump, water pump and a lot of ancillaries, oil cooler, radiator, fan, BOV's etc. Cheers Gary

After maximising the caster (we can never have too much caster on an R32/33/34) I would have gone for 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber on the front and 0.75 to 1.25 degrees negative on the rear. R33GTR are predominantly understeerers due to the ATESSA calibration and HICAS programming, so I also find around 2 mm toe out each side, front and rear, to be beneficial. Having sorted the wheel alignment the choice of dampers is a pretty simple one, I have found Bilstein work well on R32/33/34's due to their sophisticate valving. There's about 300 or so kits utilising Bilsteins in Skylines, Stageas and Silvias running around from the old Group Buy days and the guys seem pretty happy with them. Depending on the budget non adjustable, single adjustable with or without remote canisters or triple adjustable with remote canisters. For non adjustable I'd suggest Kings springs (Lows NOT SuperLows) as Redranger in their infinite wisdom discontinued all Whiteline springs. The Bilsteins I do have my valving specs and come with additional circlip grooves so the cars ride height can be selected prior to fitting them. For R33GTR's I never go lower than 355 mm on the front and 345 mm on the rear (centre of wheel to guard as usual) as the ride deteriorates and the suspension geometry is not designed to operate at lower than height. If finite on car height adjustment is desired then Eibach are the best spring choice. They require the addition of what we call "coil over conversion kits" to the Bilsteins. Always remember that swaybars are by far the best value handling upgrade, road or track. You have my email address if you want to discuss. Hope that helps Cheers Gary

It may or may not be an issue for you, but you should be aware that aftermarket control arms are an instant defect. That's one of the reasons why I have always used adjustable bushes in the OE control arms. Plug for my garage clear out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414126-r32-or-s13-oe-rear-arms/ Cheers Gary

Ask them to adjust the "radius rod" in any decent wheel alignment shop and they will go straight to the front of the car Cheers Gary

In an effort to clean out my garage I am selling three Selbys (yellow) swaybars that I had as spares but have never used. They are new, unused, but have a few scratch marks from moving them around my garage. The fitting kits are brand new and still in their packets. BNF19A (equivalent to Whiteline BNF19Z) adjustable front 27 mm swaybar for 200SX S14 and S15 BNF28A (equivalent to Whiteline BNF28Z) adjustable front 24 mm swaybar for R32GTST (it has extra clearance to suite an 8 litre sump) BNR20CA (equivalent to Whiteline BNR20XZ) adjustable rear 22 mm swaybar for Cefiro, S13 & 180SX These bars would sell for around $300 each retail, but I need them gone so $150 each including free freight (Australia only of course) Sorry no pictures as yet, but if you want one please contact me via email on [email protected] Cheers Gary

On the rear we usally call it a traction rod, in lieur of radius rod which is reseerved for the front only. It's called a traction rod because it controls the rear upright in traction ie; tension in a longitudinal direction due to accelleration and braking. Cheers Gary.

In Sydney? Then give Bruce a call at Exceller Steering. tell him i said to call, he will look after you. 26 Exceller Avenue Bankstown NSW 2200 (02) 9790 1745 Settings wise, Front Toe = out 2 mm each side Caster = as much as you can get Camber = you will ned around 4 degrees so when you do the upper control arm bushes makle sure that you get both an inner and an outer kit. Rear Toe = out 3 mm each side Camber = around 2.5 degrees negative should be enough, but make sure to eliminate the rear bump steer as much as possible by adjusting the upper control arm and the traction rod in tandem ie; maintain their relative lengths. If you haven't already done them; 1. Swaybars, by far the best value for money upgrade 2. Rear subframe alignment kit, takes out most of the slop in the rear subframe and can be set for drift traction levels. Cheers Gary