Sydneykid

I strongly suggest you have a read of these before you start; http://www.whiteline.com.au/article..._Skyline01a.htm http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?pa...ineR33gts-t.htm http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/fact_shee...line_R33GTS.PDF

If you haven't already done it, you need to fix the rear suspension alignment so you can run soft in the rear without excessive camber change. Nothing fundamently wrong with the HKS drag suspension but you need to tune it (including springs rates) for your tracks. The really fast tracks in Japan are very smooth, so they tend to run higher sprng rates than we do on our rougher tracks. Rear spring rate is very critical, you want a fair bit of weight transfer to the rear, even though it is 4wd. It is important to have adjustable ATTESSA (torque split) then you can optimise the balance of rear squat, traction and power to achieve the fastest 60'. Bottom line, there is no one RIGHT setting, you have to optimise every day. So it is important to test the range of settings at your disposal, that way you will know what works and what doesn't. As for shocks, I suggest starting off with the lowest bump setting you can get on the rear and the lowest rebound setting on the front. You want to hold the back down until you can feed in some front torque without loosing steering. So a middle setting on the rear rebound would be where I would start. The front bump is adjusted so that when the weight does come back onto the front you don't get a bounce back that the soft rebound can not control. I suggest testing the 60' techniques until you are happy, then half track passes. When you have them down pat, try a full track pass. You don't have to do wear the car out doing full track passes to tune the launches. If you don't already have it, I strongly suggest some data logging as that will lead you to the right answers faster than any other method. At the very least take videos of every run, side on mostly, some rear. Watch them in slomo carefully, it will show you what the car is doing. Hope that helps

I strongly suggest you have a read of these before you start; http://www.whiteline.com.au/article..._Skyline01a.htm http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?pa...ineR33gts-t.htm http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/fact_shee...line_R33GTS.PDF

Hi Ken, I get the vibration when reversing slowly at full lock. I have checked the CV's and they are good. I will be changing the radius rod bushes shortly for more caster. They appear to be a bit worn (soft) so they maybe the problem. I also get a bad (harsh) vibration at 160 kph, I will get the wheel balance checked, but it feels more tailshafty. I don't have any vibration in first or second.

For around $70 for an electronic boost controller with this sort of logic, why would you buy a bleed valve. I will put up a post on what I perceive as dissadvantages to balance the advantages (nothing is perfect) thta I have already listed. I want to do a liitle more testing and check my programing, I am going to give it a run with the video camera on the boost gauge and the controller. Then I will verify that I have the settings optimised. I am trying to squeeze and hour into late next week on the dyno, then I can get a print out on the power graph of the boost curve. I will post it up then and list out any dissadvantages that I confirm.

Apexi don't make Power FC's for Nissan autos (I have seen a Power FC for an auto Toycar though). To much programming code for the Nissan auto shift logic.

Hi Matt, it has enough adjustment to handle larger injectors no problems. But (there is always a but) when you bend the AFM voltages a lot, the ignition timing is also affected. So you may end up with too far advanced ignition in order to get the A/F ratios right with the larger inejctors. As I have said many times before, piggy back (benders) are a compromise. You might have to run it a bit rich so the ignition timing is not too far advanced. If you are only going up a little in injector size (say 370 to 480 cc's) then it might be OK. But I doubt that you would get a good tune with 550 cc injectors. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Matt, the Jaycar Intelligent Boost Controller will work with any solenoid, you have to "tune" it, instructions on how to are in the book. The advantage of using the Nissan solenoid is that is what was used by JE in the design process, so the tuning is a bit easier. But it's no big deal, only takes a couple of minutes extra. I haven't had time to stick it on the dyno to give a definitive power increase, but it will be the same as for any Boost Controller. Add 0.3 bar to the max boost and take out the standard low boost in 1st and 2nd. The real advantage is the way the car drives and the dyno sheet ain't gunna show that. My previously posted comments cover that as best I can. I see no reason so far why the Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster won't work exactly the same as any other AFM voltage bender. Except it has a LOT more load points and very fine adjustments are possible at each point, something around 0.005 of a volt I am trying to find a spare hour next week to throw it on the dyno, tune it and stick up the results. Remember the Stagea has NO other mods, no big exhaust, standard filter, standard compliance cat, standard intercooler, I will even remove the inlet air scoop and air deflector for the test. I will also test it in 4wd, it's an auto and I use it for towing the race car, so I am not going to lean it out to squeeze the last frop of power from it. Bottom line, don't expect to see big horsepower, just note the increase over standard with ZERO mechanical mods. PS, I have a heap of parts almost all ready to go on, ball bearing hi flow turbo, split dump/engine pipe, 3.25" exhaust, hi flow cat, panel filter, FMIC and an adj exhaust camshaft pulley. Plenty of stuff for 200+ 4wkw and I have other cars with similar mods (not using the Jaycar stuff) to compare to.

Very short post, Theo has run 9.75 with the STANDARD GTR PLENUM & THROTTLE BODIES:cheers:

Ultimates are very gentle, Blues are not too bad, PFCM leave a residue that needs to be removed regularly. But they do stop, the co efficient of friction is very high and it stays that way over high temperatures.

An interesting thread this one, my 20 cents worth. The N1 water pump is not designed to stop cavitation, it is designed to slow dow nthe movment of water at high rpm. The race teams found that with the standard pump the water moved so fast around the engine that it didn't absorb the heat. So they came up with a "cut back" style of water pump that slowed the water movement down. This is good for a circuit race car that has sustained high rpm, but not so good for a road that sees lots of low rpm. I would never put an N1 pump in a car that sees any road work. In extreme cases (over 9,500 rpm) I have seen slight cavitation with the standard pump, but never any with the N1 pump. We run head and block water temps and a water systems pressure sensor all plugged into the Pi data logger, so I can see it easily from the logs. Air in the cooling system is mostly caused by not bleeding all of the air out when you fill it up with coolant. The main issue occurs where you have the radiator cap lower than the highest point of water in the engine. It is hard to get all of the air out, that's why RB20/25's have a bleed hole on the top of the inlet manifold. It is the highest point, so you can let the air out and close it off when you get 100% coolant. Swirl pots are used to remove this air from the coolant when it is not possible to ensure zero air is trapped. They separate the coolant from the air by a controlled swirling action in the pot. Plus the pot itself is usually mounted as the highest point in the cooling system, so the air naturally gravitates there. The swirl pot also helps when you have a boiling event which separates the oxygen from the hydrogen so tha tinstead of coolant and water you have coolant and gas. The boiling event can be localised (hot spot) or general (engine overheat). I have never seen air get into the cooling system due to cavitation, cavitation is simply the water pump "spinning it's wheels and going nowhere". Hope that helps:cheers:

Do a search there are lots of discussions on tuning auto's, ecu and pggybacks.

Bendix ultimates for 3 to 5 lap sprints. For 20 minutes races you need Hawk carbotics, I prefer the Blue (9012) compound for cars that go around corners as well as they go in a straight line. For cars that don't go around corners very well, in comparison to their straight line speed, then you may want to use HT15's. That compound has a higher intial bite and tolerates the high temperatures caused by the necessarily heavy braking. The alternative is Performance Friction Carbon Metallic, in the 01 compound. Hope that helps:cheers:

You are not comparing apples with apples. The full Whiteline kits has upgraded stabiliser bars, a set of Tein coil overs doesn't. It is simply 4 shocks and 4 springs. The full Whiteline kits has adjustable bushes for camber and caster, a set of Tein coil overs doesn't. It is simply 4 shocks and 4 springs. The full Whiteline kits has Bilstein shock absorbers and Whiteline springs, designed, rated and valved for pot holed, bumpy, rough Australian roads. A set of Tein coil overs are designed for Japanese billiard table roads. There is no comparison, a Skyline with a full Whiteline kit will wipe the floor with the same car fitted with 4 Jap springs and coils.

Firstly don't panic, it's not a big deal. I have seen plenty worse than that. 1. Springs, there is no preload difference on the springs, well none more than normal. The driver sits on the right hand side and most of his weight goes to the right rear. So there is always more load on the right rear spring. 2. That usually means that the rear drivers side has carried more weight for almost all of the cars life. So you always find the rear right on 10+ year old cars is lower than the rear left. There are little extra stresses on the strut tower mostly, sometimes the sub frame gets a set that way, the bushes wear etc etc. As SteveL suggested, the best way to find out if anything is excessively worn is to get under there and look. If the subframe bushes are badly worn enough to cause the problem they will be obviously broken. 3. Stabiliser bar, disconnect both front and rear bars (one side link will do) this will confirm whether or not the bars are bent. Unlikely but possible as they are hollow. 4. Get the wheel alignment checked by someone who knows what they are doing (not the local shonky/cheap tyre service) on a 4 wheel aligner. You are looking for set back on one side or uneven toe and camber. Chris at Centreline or Andrew at Traction Tyres are two that I would suggest. 5 If you do go to Centreline or Traction Tyres get then to put the car on the corner weight scales. That way they can even out the weights diagonally. If you do that and get the wheel alignment correct the car will handle perfectly. Hope that helps:cheers:

My 20 cents worth.... Once the boost is stable it is relatively easy to predict the fuel requirements using the throttle angle sensor and the engine rpm as reference points, even road speed and boost pressure can be referenced. This is how we tune a Skyline with a Motec (no AFM's). Note that it is a more labourious task than tuning off the AFM, and you do tend to build in a bit of conservatism. There comes a point where the AFM's are maxed out so early that boost is not yet stable, that is when you need to reach for larger AFM's. On RB25's for example you can get to the stage where the standard AFM is showing 5.1 volts at 4,000 rpm, then its time for an upgrade to a Z32 or Q45 AFM. But there is no real reason to upgrade when you get to 5.1 volts at 6,500 rpm, the remaining rpm to rev limit are very predictable via the other inputs. We have changed a number of RB25 AFM's as soon as they get to 5.1 volts, but they never pick up any horsepower when the 5.1 volts is reached high in the rpm range. I note that MD did a similar test recently for Z/HPI, and found exactly the same. This is my experiences, others may have different experiences:cheers:

You will know when I am totally converted, I will remove the Power FC Boost Control Kit from the race car and replace it with a Jaycar Intelligent Boost Controller. I ain't there yet.

Nope, other way around, the BOTTOM level of boost is determined by the restrictor size. The solenoid is in series with the wastegate actuator, not parrallel like most electronic boost controlers. Currently I have the standard sized hole in the restrictor ~1.25 mm. That is too big to get boost lower than 0.5 bar, which is no problem for "high" boost (0.7 bar), but not low enough for "low" boost. So I am going to solder up the restrictor hole and drill it out to 1 mm. That means more airflow goes to the wastegate actuator so it opens earlier, thus lower boost. Nope the other way around. If you want higher boost you have a bigger hole so that less air goes to the wastegate actuator. Nope, it refers to solenoid duty cycles, 0% = closed, 50% = open half the time and 100% means open all of the time. If you want less boost, you increase the solenoid (opening) duration. Sorta, you can keep the wastegate FULLY closed, because the solenoid is in series with it. So there is no way that even the slightest amount of pressure can open the wastegate. It stays tightly shut until you punch in a % opening at the appropriate injector duration. With the standard turbo I can get 0.5 bar holding it against the standard torque converter (~2,300 rpm). With the standard boost control system it would make hardly any boost at all until 2,500 rpm. There are a number of advantages of this system, obviously you get the fastest boost build possible. But you can also do tricky stuff, like set it up so that you don't get any boost while cruising at say 110 kph. Noting that it isn't speed or rpm driven, it is injector duty cycle driven. So you can still have boost at 110 kph if you want, you just have to increase the injector duty cycle by puting your foot down. Having driven many turbo cars with all sorts of boost controllers I find this one makes the 2.5 litre engine feel the closest to a 6 litre engine all of the time. This is because of the duty cycle driving the boost, you can control the power much more accurately with the throttle. When using an aim type EBC (pick a boost target and it will try and hold it), you can back off and still have max boost. This makes driving on the throttle rather tricky. That doesn't happen with this system, back off the throttle a little and the boost backs off with you. Put your foot down and the boost comes back straight away as the wastegate closes immediately. That's another advantage, you don't have to wait for the MAP sensor to catch up, with airflow waves moving up and down, sometimes long hoses. Injector duty cycle changes are instantaneous, plus you get accelerator enrichment, so there is more boost faster. As for the "low" boost setting, this system means I can have two completely different boost curves, not simply a lower max boost setting. So for the rain I can bring boost on slower, but still have the same max boost. So I can have my 0.7 bar, but not arriving until 40% injector duty cycle instead of 18%. I can always drive it on the throttle and control the power via the injector duty cycle (my right foot). That's quite different to the usual EBC's that have rpm or kph dependant boost ramps. From experience I can tell you that a 40 kph boost trigger is a bitch when you want a little more throttle to control the slide at 38 kph. Just 2kph more and you get max boost, back off a little and you get nothing, until 40 kph again. Sorry that was a bit of a rave, hope I answered your questions:cheers: PS, there are a couple of dissadvantages of this type of system, maybe in another post.....

Correct, drain from the front of the cylinder head to the sump.

The guy doing the auto to manual in the Stagea is RB26VL, he is also doing the RB26DETT into the Stagea at the same time. This is the thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=58394

A few insites to start off with... Speed is a measure of distance over time, kilometres per hour, feet per second etc Speedos don't measure either distance or time, they simply count the revolutions of the driven wheels. Like a tacho counts the revolutions of the engine. This means they are subject to errors of input, the most obvious being the circumferance of the tyres. Even new tyres of the same marked size have different radii. To that add the wear of the tyre over its life and the resulting decrease in circumferance. Smaller circunferance means less distacne travelled for the same tyre rpm, so you get optomistic speedos (read higher that real speed). This can be as much as 3-5% depending ion the tread depth. In addition car manufacturers build in some optimism into speedos, they are not perfectly accurate, there are manufacturing tolerances, so they allow a small percentage (~2 or 3%). They do this so you are actually travelling slightly slower than you think you are, ie; so you can't sue them for speeding due to a pessimistic speedo. If you add the two factors together it is not unusual to see a speedo read 100 kph when the car is actually doing 92 kph. And that's an accurate one. Now for the differences between a needle (speedo) and a digital display (Commander, RSM etc).... They both use the pulse generator in the gearbox, so they are both subject to the "errors" as above. They can still read different values however due to their contruction method and manufacturing tolerances. Speedo needles are heavily damped, otherwise they would jump around a lot and you woudln't be able to read them easily. Plus they coverted pulses into a needle rotation, this is subject to all sorts of errors, stuff like battery voltage, current drain, temperature, parallex error etc. The digital read outs (Commander, RSM etc) have the potential to be more accurate as they don't translate pulses into needle movement. They have a timing chip and simply relate the pulses counted (distance travelled) to the timing signals from the chip (time). But they can suffer some of the same problems (as the speedo), temperature stability, voltage shift etc. So neither of them is accurate either, but how do I know what speed I am really doing? I find the best way to check my speedo accuracy is to time the car over one of those 5 kilometre speedo check markings. Simply note the time taken to travel the 5k's. Divide 5k's by the time and you have the average speed (ie; a proper speed measure of distance over time). If you kept the speed constant, you will be able to work out how accurate your speedo is. If your speed according to the speedo was a constant 120 kph and it took you 2.5 minutes to travel the 5 k's then you speedo is accurate. 5 / 2.5 X 60 = 120 kph. Hope that makes sense:cheers: PS; just because the oddometer is accurate (shows 5.0k's over the measured 5k's) doesn't necessarily mean the speedo is accurate.

Pop over to the Stagea thread there is a guy doing an auto 4wd conversion to manual 4wd. He is posting up all the details.

The R32 GTST is doing 235 kph at the end of the straight at Eastern Creek, that's with 220 rwkw. It's still accelerating of course, but we do have to turn left:cheers: PS; I have no doubt that given a long enough downhill straight, with a tailwind, it would hit the rev limiter in 5th, that's ~290 kph.

Option 1, that's how ours is plumbed, OK on a race car but illegal on a road car. Option 2, you can do that, at least its legal. Option 3, same as option 2 but no inline filter and into the PCV valve instead of the turbo inlet. That way its plumb back (clean) when no boost is present, sorta 50% legal. Option 4, same as option 2 but remove the filter from the can and run the hose to the PCV valve. That's fully legal and only the "under boost" oily air goes through the inlet (fuel) filter. You won't have to change it so often. Hope that makes sense:cheers:

My opinion, on any turbo car the exhaust is always #1, from the turbo back, including a hi flow cat (do a search for the reasons). #2 turn up the boost, 10 psi (0.7 bar) is the limit for standard turbos (do a search for the reasons). #3 air filter upgrade, doesn't give much, but it is cheap (there are choices, do a search). #4 toss up between intercooler and ECU, personally I do the ECU and tuning very early. It saves money on petrol (mods #1, #2 and #3 richen up Skylines something fierce) and you run into all sorts of little problems with the ECU trying to protect the engine. There are choices, do a search. #5 whichever you didn't do in #4. There are lots of choices, do a search. #6 to #100 or so, the possibilities for Skylines parts are endless, there are lots of choices, do a search. PS; there is plenty of info on Skylines here, hence you should "do a search".