paulr33

dont know if its the be all and end-all but think of the EVO and the SR20 both are 2 litre 4 cylinders and pull some pretty good numbers and have good cc per cylinder vs other in line 6's check out the barra XR6t and we all know those things pull some spastic numbers 4l = 666cc per cylinder

yeah not sure what it weighs or what power it has and not sure if its the 2l or 2.5l, but either way it is 4 cylinder so wrx 2l = 500c per cyclinder wrx 2.5l = 625 cc per cylinder r33 2.5l = 415cc per cylinder that might be why

yeah you need to check the mechanical state and advise, instead of the ODO take the ODO with a grain of salt, but still take it into consideration and have some money aside in case it has demons ie if you have a choice of Car a which is 16k with 85,000 or car B which is 130,000 for 13k id go for car A again assuming it hasnt been wound back

yeah i should add the wrx feels like it will drop off quickly and the tacho redline starts at 6500rpm the skyline seems to pull alll the way and not die off, but wrx pulls more i dont know if its the 2L or 2.5L wrx, ill check

yep my GTST which ive had for 7 years has exhaust, intercooler, aggressive tune, heavy duty clutch, pump, splitfires, good tyres, suspension work, camber, castor, all the other bits and 192rwkw the wrx is non-sti bog stock and its got 62,000 on the clock, my gtst has 230,000 on it even when i had my gtst with 100,000 i still think the WRX has a bit more pull i dont know how it would go on the street against each other, but i can feel the wrx pull more and this is on light cruise, full gear runs, up hils and bogging it down ie 50km in 4th gear lots of lag and floor it in both cars 60km in 5th gear lots of lag and floor it the wrx seems to pull more consisntently all the way through its probably a bit unfair as the skyline has a lot of km's on it but the skyline also has 10k worth of parts on it

yeah but comparing a big single 3076 proper setup to twin GTR is a fairly different comparison i vote for the 3076 setup on the GTR - 4wd, individual throttle bodies, lots of gearing i think ANY car stock is fairly ordinary the only stock car that has suprised me is a friends WRX here (non STI) i think its maybe a 2004/2005 WRX, and it has tons of torque everywhere and its bone stock it has more pull in every gear over my GTST with usual mods

moved from tutorial section

yep will do thanks

5psi to 7psi is easy. install the factory solenoid, but give it constant 12v power and it will be a basic bleed value net result is instead of 5psi then 4500rpm then 7psi you should get 7psi all the time

no, the actuator spring level is the minimum boost you can run ie you cant run 3psi because the wastegate doesnt open until it has 5psi at it's vac line you use a bleed valve or boost controller to fake the pressure signal to the actuator, so that instead of the actuator seeing 5psi and opening, it let's say will see 2psi as your boost contrller "hides" the real pressure value. it swithces on/off quickly (duty cycle) and that let's it bleed a bit of pressure. this is how you run more boost. by giving the actuator a fake signal

no, the service manual does not differentiate between year build / series it simply says ECR33 auto blah blah, ECR33 manual blah blah The R34 service manual does the same, doesn't differentiate between year / build / series and simply says ER34 blah blah (it doesnt mention difference for auto / manual in ER34)

mythbusters ahoy! where HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi be sure to note, that ECR33 has dual stage boost, that is the std solenoid will bleed an additional 2psi above 4500rpm so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for AUTO R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 7psi minimum boost so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for MANUAL R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 9psi minimum boost if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let

the highest i saw was a BNR34 at auctions with 380,000kms

1997 R33 GTST - 227,000 std turbo, std engine with usual mods and 190rwkw

maybe your turbocharger failed and yours has been replaced with an auto turbocharger? maybe your actuator has failed and your actuator has been replaced with an auto actuator? maybe your car was auto and converted to manual? unlikely but possible

to be clear standard R33 GTST auto is 5psi standard R33 GTST manual is 7psi both have a boost scramble or "boost hi mode" which bleeds in another 2psi around 4500rpm from the standard solenoid if you bypass the standard solenoid and do nothing else minimum boost for auto is 5psi and manual is 7psi

given where you live and the annoyance you have you might find it easier to rip it out,sell it and buy a more friendlier unit you can do the most of work yourself is it hard wired in or plug and pray?

or the caliper size or the tyre size on the rear or they can guess and its most likely a turbo import (ie how many N/A R33s are there vs GTSTs?, almost all are GTST)

nah its not an sti bog stock wrx ill find out what year it is so i can look up factory torque etc dont know if its a 2l or 2.5l

it just feels more torque everywhere in the rev range vs my GTST i dont know if its actually quicker on 1/4 etc - probably is, but it feels to pull harder much softer ride too

you know what i cant work out how a std wrx has more torque than my gtst with basic mods (boost, exhaust, tune etc) 4 cyl vs 6 cyl it seems to pull better in every gear granted the engine has 60k on it vs mine at 220k

if the ECU is in limp mode due to mangled AFM, rev cut is 2500rpm (at least for RB25DET it is), and rb20 is probably the same

any amount of opening the throttle will make it whistle away with a pod filter, like a mack truck go back to the std airbox to shit it up and keep it quiet

yeah sorry i got a bit sidetracked, datalogit all the way

make sure the car is in gear (clutch in) VCT wont fire when the car is in neutral on the manual GTST (NTR is the switch)