paulr33

yep - check the basics before going into solution mode

yeah and thats why its laggy the stockers on BNR32 are 0.42a/r front and 0.48a/r rear x 2 and you have 0.60a/r front and 0.64a/r rear x 2 so its quite a step up given it's in twin form

yeah if the compressor is 0.60a/r they are defintely not std BNR32 turbochargers GT/lemans sounds about right. i dont think the n1's are even 0.60a/r on BNR32

if your coilpacks are shagged, they are shagged all the time on boost ie they dont magically work between 4500rpm and 6000rpm and then misfire city when coilpacks are shagged it will misfire its ass off from like 3000rpm to redline (any amount of decent boost) given you mention the typical flat spot / cut range for R&R id say check the basics given you said youve only just had the car it could be a) it started since the service / timing belt, or b) its always been shagged so check the basics, check it with a timing light at idle, check to make sure your base timing is correct reset the stock ecu, perform a stock ecu diag if you can with consult to check for any dead sensors or unplugged sensors

get an orange cannon instead

told you that it wont be the stock boost causing the issue sort out the coilpacks dodgy fix ie buy new ones

from my memory when my GTST was stock 2nd gear below 4500rpm was 5psi as it should be and when you went past 4500rpm it would run to 7psi and remain static at 7psi there was no flat spot, not wobbly issue etc and it ran great

ages ago at a dyno day we dynoed a brand new bog stock XR6T ute mark II or series II which ever it was and it made 209rwkw 6 speed manual turbo ute it would have been about 4/5 years ago now

west != footscray footscray is ass and it's own country im in keilor... it's the west wild wild west

west is fine for me, no 80km/h 6 year road works...

yeah i can run my pump all day and night it still doesnt guarantee lock i think the issue is air in the lines or bleeding issue if i do the bike pump trick as noel said it seems to clear out the demons and when it locks (i test it in the wet sometimes) the diff is amazing if you could rig up a way to auto bleed that would be ok

they may be back to front whats the issue? the powerfc uses average of both sensors so it doesnt matter if they are flipped around

adriano is spot on wastegate internal, external, twin whatever you like the housing is too small you are trying to basically run fire hose pressure through a std garden hose it wont work and will just crap itself

i think we've got ourselves a broken arrow

it's a normal diff as far as i know i had diff place pull mine apart as i asked them to dismantle and fix it and they said there is nothing they could fix (ie it wasnt broken) they said they could put a new kaz centre in it no problems, but at 1200 no thanks racepace have said they can shim it but in the vspec diff there is very limited room not sure but maybe he (racepace) has shimmed vspec differs in GTR's before (not GTST) as they do tons of track GTRs and no doubt a lot of them would be vspec's with possibly std diff's

the rb20 turbo is too small for the 4L the housing will choke the car and probably make it run like ass the XR6T barra engine has a GT35R turbocharger on it and the housing is massive 1.06a/r putting a tiny GT25 with a 0.50a/r will just choke up the engine and youll see instane EGTs when its on boost exhaust pressure will be off the planet as well

if you want it that bad, it might be best just to replace the centre but it comes at a cost of around 1000 which is the killer i will try and get my a-lsd shimmed to see how that goes

PM-R33 if you hard run the pump for about 5 seconds it will fail as it must have a pressure trigger i can run the pump for 2 seoncds, turn it off, repeat and do this continously and its fine its only when you leave it on for about 5 seconds that it has a hissy fit you could hook up a system to make it run the pump for 2 seconds, turn off, 2 sec, off and repeat for ever and it would probably be fine

yeah one of those, i rememebr the 317 badge and the R8 badge

how good is TMNT you put anchovies on that thing and your in big trouble mister

FYI i've ran against a 317 UTE on a private road upto 180km/h and neither of us could pull away pretty sure it was a SS R8 Ute new model

yeah that should be fairly easy, all my switch does it flip the power wires via a relay and hard run the pump when its flipped but the system has a pressure sensor on it and when a certain pressure is reached the system fails and A-LSD gives up (light on the dash) this means it wont ever run the pump again by itself until you reboot the car. driving with the pump running non-stop is Ok and no major issues that i've seen, but on my car it still single span even with pump %100 running. it seems to require a proper bleed and check of the system regulary to make it work. when you do that, it works awesome

the only time ive found traction an issue is when my diff has been stupid (active lsd and tired diff centre) and when the rears are bald otherwise my traction has been pretty sweet and even with basic power 190rwkw i can take on basically anything on the street i still have std shocks in my car but camber, castor, bushes, pineapple kit certianly helped get the power down and quickly

yeah sorry wasnt having a go, but a simplistic view that was of two incomes is all you need just keep savin where you can and work towards it the accountant at my old place said i was stupid for buying a house he said rent where you want to live, and buy as many investment properties as you can afford on interest only loans he said that renting wherever you want is cheaper than buying in the same place and put your $ towards investment houses instead and rent them out

agree $1500 rent is a fair bit for a bit more you can get a house with two incomes it should be a piece of piss