paulr33

if you do the 7psi boost solenoid mod then the AIRFLOW meter will tell the ECU more air is coming in and it will compensate accordingly ie; it is an EFI system, so you can just dial in more pressure, and it will compensate accordingly no carby screws to adjust :-)

al has the tein EDFC ask him if you want

if you want a new PFC go for a new PFC from nengun.com and it will come with the EL hand controller as well

moved from tutorial section as you aren't meant to post help questions in there

yes if you do the std solenoid trick you run 7psi all the time, but that's only when you load the engine up ie if you plod around in 2nd gear you boost will be -500mmhg which is no boost at all its only when you load the engine up, the turbocharger builds up speed (the zzzzt noise) and starts to add boost pressure this is where the guage goes from -500mmhg to 0 and then into the positive +5 boost area - +5 is +500mmhg which is 9psi so its only until you load the engine up, that the turbocharger starts to build up and "add" boost so with std setup if you floor it in 2nd gear it goes from -500mmhg to 0 and then to 5psi and stays there until 4500rpm then just after 4500rpm the solenoid flicks closed and you bleed an extra 2psi so you run 7psi

download nissan fast and find it in there from the diagrams

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...24#entry5394124 please add your ideas, thoughts, comments, suggestions

some cars have two stage boost settings, these are usually referred to as low and high some are RPM controlled, like in the R33 GTST it runs 5psi (known as low) from 0 to 4500rpm and 7psi (known as high) from 4500rpm to 7000rpm some have different turbocharger modes or stages - the like the subaru B4 which has a small turbo and a larger turbo which have a changeover around 4400rpm (boost changes as well) some cars have (aftermarket) boost contollers which let the driver set boost to whatever they like and often they tune the car for a low boost setting which is safe ie lets say 14psi and have a "high" switch for 18psi so the driver if he feels like he needs more power or boost can turn the controller to high and get more boost/power often the high is usaully well over the safe limit and can result in failure the response i have for high and low is tune and setup your car for the highest safe pressure you can run and control it with the accel pedal ie having 14 and 18psi is pointless. if your can safely run 18psi, then run it all time and set it up and drive it properly often you'll hear vl turbo's run xyz PSI and have a magic switch for 22psi etc blah blah its the same deal, just an electronic controller. if he can safely run 22psi, why not just run it all the time and there's another "full boost" term which is what most people say the RPM at which the turbo reaches target boost pressure ie on a skyline if it runs 14psi, the guy will say it reaches full boost at 3500rpm they mean, it can wind up 14psi by 3500rpm - so they mean the lowest possible engine RPM that reaches target boost this is subjective to a billion things such as car, engine, turbo, tune, mods etc so its pointless you might hear guys go my vl turbo reaches full boost at 2500rpm it means nothing until you get the facts of.... my vl turbo reaches full boost at 2500rpm with single overhead cam, std pistons, std diff gears, t04e highflowed, 15psi target, 17" wheels, tune is spot on, larger cams, good intake, good intercooler

how do you figure stock r32 boost is 10psi if the nissan service manual says the minimum opening pressure for the actuator is 11.3 psi? i just don't get it id say if you are seeing 10 psi your actuator is faulty you have a pressure leak inefficient intercooler inaccurate guage or guess reading it is important to note, that the service manual says that applying 11.3 psi pressure at the actuator will make it move and thus open the wastegate it does NOT specify that you will get 11.3 psi at the back of the plenum, so if you see less boost than 11.3 and you consider this "std boost" then you have a pressure drop

i need your clothes, your boots and your motocycle

the new swift has this factory option my gf has it on her car you dont need the key to open it or start the car in the phyiscal barrell it has touch buttons on the door that work if the key is in your pocket and when you are in the car the barrett has a handle that turns as long as the key is in your pocket the barrell has a backup key option as well in case the system fails or the remote has a flat battery

yep that's prefect find the section that shows you how to pull apart the turbocharger in theree will be a secion on how to test the std actuator, and what pressure it requires to make it open this is the minimum boost

yep keen for ER34/BNR34 also

im not sure, but have wondered, logic says it should re-use the same map sensor signal automatically but i bet on Djetro if you do MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, BOOST, does it display boost pressure (aka manifold pressure)? if so, then all you need is the solenoid and the solenoid harness

nope, it's with any hot wire AFM try and include the biggest bend you can or keep accordian style induction or pod to break up the airflow

be careful if you have a nice shiny straight peiece of metal as the intake ducting the standard intake pipe has accordian style bends in it to avoid afm signal reversion if you put in a nice perfect straight piece of metal it will cause reversion of the AFm signal and make the car run like ass

the nissan spec manual is bang on - for HR32 Use the air gun to blow compressed air approx 0.8 ~ 0.9 kgcm/2 into the hose and make sure the swing controller rod operates so the minimum boost on HR32 is 0.8kgcm2 which is 11.3PSI and the high end of the minimum is 0.90kgcm2 which is 12.8PSI so anywhere within those specs is acceptable to nissan and the factory specs. this is why i quote it as 12psi, as its the average in the middle

here is the extract that i think is relevant to your issue, read away and good luck std_diag.pdf

poor fuel? poor fuel flow? blocked fuel filter? poor injector control? dirty injectors? dirty fuel rail? poor spark? poor coilpack? poor compression? poor / damaged air intake? it could be a million things and it really requires basic diagnostics, troubleshooting and some general mechanic knowledge has it always had this issue? when did it last work ok? what's changed recently etc

mythbusters ahoy! where HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me know

stock ECR33 boost after 4500rpm with std solenoid is 7PSI, before 4500rpm it is 5psi you might bleed a touch higher with your exhaust setup, but that's the actuator specs from factory

stock ECU picking up detonation via knock sensor and dropping to penis fuel map this is a std protection behaviour and it will fire this when it picks up detonation i would have expected the ECU to clear this mode when you power IGN off somehow perhaps it is saving this state in your car and keep the IGN retard perm there is also something else that is done when you DATA INIT the stock ECU, it does a check to see and advances timing 2deg at boot up ill check the service manual for the conditions on this

yep will do ive got HR32 BCNR33 ECR33 i need ER34 BNR34 if someone has the service manals for ER34 and BNR34 can you please check and show me what it is im lookuing for the section that show how to test and diagnaose the actuator not working it is usually worded like; to test the turbocharger wastegate pressure control connect a pressure vessel guage to the diaphram and blow compressed air to 0.80kgcm2 until the actuator rod beings to move. the actuator rod must move at the minimum required pressure

i've got the notes at home straight from the nissan service manual, the actuator is rated to open at 0.80kgcm2 to 0.85kgcm2 from memory so the average is 0.82kgcm2 which from memory is just on 12psi ill post up the official notes from the service manual tonight

no idea, i guess they had the space on the screen, why not use it haha