paulr33

8:30 to 4:30

BCNR32 and BCNR33 powerfc is the same unit be sure to read documentation before installing dont just install it, start and drive off powerfc faq in my sig has everything you need to know

ed's post is saying that on BNR32, there is no engine check light so the PFC uses the exahust temp light as the "engine check light" cars such early model RX7 also do this, they use exhaust temp light as the engine check light instead thanks for confirming ed

far out i nearly had a hear attack and im doing a talk its next week haha

the ticking is probably detonation you are hearing when you say high boost, define high what other mods do you have

D13 = 140rwkw (STOCK ECR33) D14 = 9psi 171.1=D13*(D14+2)/D14 i think if the ECU was tuned properly and suitable exhaust, intercooler, intake etc but with bog stock everything adding 2psi i dont think will give you those gains above

yeah the reason disco said twin scroll is more suited for 4 cyl is because the firing order and the engine is optimized to suit the firing order like the 4g63 and sr20 are more suited for twin scroll as the firing order matches the manifold split setup i wonder how complicated a properly twin scroll manifold on a rb20/25/26/30 footprint would look and perform with a properl twin scroll manifold with the correct firing order match and turbo to suit

3" intake and 3" intercooler pipework or 3" intake and 2.5" intercooler pipework?

and when cops look for a boost controller they would usually look from the engine bay and look for vac lines running all over the place people usually use coloured shiny vac lines they buy from autobarn etc so its easy to spot use blank simple lines and try to make it look oem. but the vac lines always run to a solenoid of some sort, so thats the easiest way to find it with the controller hidden or not

look in the car audio section for self installs many self installs under car audio will show you how to unbolt that plastic panel correctly

the ecu doesn't wear out, ie it's a static tune once set check the 02 sensor, its probably the factory 02 sensor which is like 200,000km old they dont last forever and when dead the ECU will waste fuel

now what bout your other thread? do u want to go back and delete that?

nah it wouldnt know, the only time the powerfc throws on the engine check light is when a sensor is out of range or unplugged

which pipe are you referring to? if you block the actuator signal and give it no manifold pressure you run unlimited boost, that is, boost will continue to climb for ever and peak where the exhaust housing / compressor wheel are at the limits, this is usually well past 1 bar so dont try doing that. i see no way possible of getting 13/14psi with the factory solenoid and std actuator unless youve modified the std solenoid or using your own bleed valve etc or just leaving it on unlimited boost mode and hoping for the best if you block the dual stage solenoid and run the vac signal straight to the actuator, you will get what the actuator spring is, so if its a 7psi spring in the ER34, then you get 7psi if the dual solenoid is working and connected properly it might bleed another 2psi, giving you 9psi at a set RPM somewhere (ECR33 is 4500rpm) so ER34 might be similar.

hmm kinda all over the shop here... the std solenoid cannot provide less boost than the actuator on the turbo that is, if the car has a 7psi actuator spring, dual factory boost solenoid or not, the minimum boost you get is 7psi so even if you bypass it, you get 7psi you can only use solenoids or controllers to give you more boost, not less than the actuator spring all the solenoid (or other controllers) do is mask the pressure signal or restrict it a bit so the actuator opens later the ECR33 (manual) is a 7psi actuator and a dual stage boost solenoid factory that bleeds an extra 2psi past 4500rpm so if you remove the solenoid or ditch it or cut it out, then you only get 7psi regardless the only way you could make the factory solenoid give you more boost is if you physically modify it - ie narrow the diameter inside it, even then it probably wont work very well

hey trent i remember this post from the other day and also i noticed a weird issue when i was testing BCNR33 powerfc on my ECR33 with a hacked loom when the car was running i plugged in the hand controller and basically the car rebooted, the engine reprimed and like rebooted it turns out in the apexi documentation they do NOT advise to plug/unplug while car is running...

the 02 sensor is on the dump pipe on BNR32, 1 sensor per dump pipe on the car there is another sensor, exhaust temp sensor, which is not really needed and your car will work fine with it unplugged or removed it throws on the cat temp light on the dash when cat temp is too high

MBT(Minimum advance Best for Torque) The ideal ignition timing to produce maximum torque for a given load and engine RPM. Applying this value for every stage would be extremely efficient and minimize load on the engine while driving.

& happy bday

im not your buddy, guy

sounds reasonable ish R33 GTST manual boost is 7/9psi switched so with an exhaust i dont think youd see a 3psi gain magically it will flow more, but dont know about an increase to 11psi ,but as the others have said, all the power is locked away in the stock ecu tune

no he hasn't changed his #s give the guy a break he is probably working flat out dont stress / hit the panic button so quickly

i spoke to him last weekend, he was all good & busy if that helps

are you telling me this sucker is nuclear