paulr33

you only need to hard wire it running walbros that are flow rated at 15v in the skyline it will get around 12v from the standard setup which is fine for a bosch pump or stock pump you will gain zero by doing a hard wire. i woudlnt do it (if i was ray), just takes time which will end up costing you more for zero gain if you put a wallbro in there and were peaking 240rwkw then yes hardwire if you insisted on wallbro, but otherwise get a real pump - ie save cost and safety

1.6mb/sec downloading public torrent movie in peak hour, gotta love bigpond

hey that MKV all sorted the 2.7GB one i got the subtitles are optional on the WD HD TV so just turned them off all the gook shit disappears top rip too thanks leigh

haha magna vrx as an evo nice work i went in an evo 7 around debortoli with scott pedder that was pretty sweet, fair driving he can do brake and accelerate at the same time

Broken.Arrow.1996.BluRayRip.720p.x264-NWO.mkv is it 4gb or 8Gb coudl u burn to DVD file and post to me or next sau meeting or something>?

he means it is side mounted the engine sites sideways in the engine bay its because its a front wheel drive car converted to rear wheel drive like the wrx vs gtr which is rear wheel drive car convertered to front

R33 S2 is 3 wire, no worky R32/R33 S1 is 4 wire, worky from memory VL plug is the same for R32, R33 S1

32 looks good mohsen well done leigh how i can get the 4GB mkv of broken arrow off you ? i download a 2.7gb mkv but its jap subtitles in the mkv so bugger that

no idea auto elec did it a few years ago

theres a stack of them frmo memory next to the battery a series of fuses and relays

here it is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...html&st=20#

i have no idea how a missing fuse causes it to happen all of a sudden, but it did have seen it on another ECR33, same issue, high voltage all of a sudden, changed heaps of crap, then i found the thread, told them about the missing fuse and they found a missing fuse, put it in and problem solved the fuse was in the boot

that poor little airflow meter, such a hot hurricane it is trapped inside of being in the cooler pipes

they never put cops in general population

when did it first start, whats changed recently my GTST was fine for years and then all of a sudden the battery light stayed on and i have 15+ volts after many things tried inc new alternator, swap over, reco etc the auto elec found a fuse in the was missing (no idea how). he replaced that and problem solved. dont know what fuse either. but i have seen someone else with the same issue

the challenge here is that you need a dyno and wideband sensor on the road is dangerous and makes you dizzy (without a dyno) happy to walk through the main steps and basics but you cant really do your own complete tune without wideband and dyno

for those that missed out this time i can do a quick re-cap session if the club wants to let me talk again ? i wont go through every slide in deail, just quick re-cap on the main items also interested in what else you would like to hear/know about from the tuning/powerfc arena? open to feedback and oct meeting will be my last chance to use my own projector as its getting mounted in the ceiling soon so let us know if u want anotehr quick session

but there is a clear difference here R33 has excess air flow cut R34 has excess air flow cut and map sensor protection you need to avoid both or "clamp" both to get the normal power gains when you add more boost ie an safc or a piggyback to work around the excess airflow is ok, but the stock map sensor protection will still fire run the map sensor protection into an expose vac line (so it always reads ambient pressure and never changes) and crimp the line (to stop vac leak) that way when you boost it up, the ECU looks at the map sensor and only ever see's ambient pressure so it should never fire the excess boost protection

as per my quote, ER34 ECU has excess airflow and boost protection, ECR33 ecu does not, so you are hitting the map sensor cut and there is no R34 GTST R34 GTT R34 GTV R34 GTR etc

when boost exceeds what is set by the actuator and its static until a point, like yours it sounds like the exhaust backpressure increases and thus it yields more compressor flow - ie it cant scavange quick enough

covered in the PFC FAQ co pilot, fc tune

just sounds like a pissing contest?

i think youll get to a point where every kw starts to cost mega and youll break something i find a 200rwkw gtst fast on the street, cant imagine why you need 350+ ????

its unlikely that it has failed, its a pretty simple device its likely its been fitted wrong, loose, mangled, fiddled with or has some play in it etc if the actuator cant hold it correctly, the boost controller has no hope is it a genuine std GTRS or has it been modified etc? what sort of dump/front pipe?