paulr33

ive got a batmbl split dump on my 33 have had it for at least 6 years, no issues and still working (ie reliable) with std turbo and setup

never retard timing to allow you to run more boost run as much timing as possible on a safe boost level - ie dont run scramble boost, boost switches, dual boost, stage boost, just run one big single safe value then tune - never adjust boost while tuning either. set it at the desired level and lock the controller away. dont EVER run most boost that what you have tuned for. thats how engines fail the more timing everywhere the more crisp and sharp the car is on throttle the less timing you run the more sluggish the car is

the stock ecu will back out timing when water temp goes up but it certainly wouldnt kill the engine like you described, just a touch sluggish when you see the issue what does the water temp guage look like on the dash and are there any red warning lights on - these would be dead obvious but just in case any do you have nissan consult? if you could get that or borrow it you can run a diag on all the stock sensors and even see what the ECU is picking up water temp this would tell you the sensor is toast (it could be) or out of range etc

ill post up mine tonight

sorry meant to add with healthy engine, good tune and dyno dynamics in shoot out

with safc, exhaust, boost, intercooler, clutch you should make 200rwkw on ECR33

fc hako will also let you capture wideband input and help you tune your powerfc, its in the power fc FAQ in my sig

any truck parts shop would have them

agree if you take 8deg and its still displaying knock then it might be mechanicl drivetrain noise the knock sensor is a microphone in the block afterall if your tune is reset by accident or incorrectly the following will be dead obvious unstable idle or instant stall each time wonky idle and hunting all over the place engine check light on as boost kit is enabled by default so if your PFC has reset itself either by human error or becuase its "dumb" then you would see those issues the PFC saves its tune in NVRAM so its unlikely it has lost it's tune

apexi set the engine check light to flash at a level 60 which they believe is enough to warn you anything over 60 i would be getting it checked by a tuner. the usual culprits when you exceed 60 knock are too much boost penis fuel too much timing intake temp too high (poor pod, poor intercooler, no intercooler, poor intake, too much boost) fix one of those to resolve the issue and/or back out timing at the same timing taking out timing using temp ignition adjust always removes the knocking

thats sucks come and pick up some pavers instead

yeah the vac lines is a dead obvious give away specially if they are brigth coloured vac lines etc if its a std looking actuatgor and its not shiny and clean then you should be fine ie if it looks clean it means youve been fiddling with it, cover it in oil and make it look dirty i dont think they would be pick differetn actuator spring rate, how woudl they check it ? other than visual

ive got those advans on my 33 but they are shagged and need to be stripped back, sandblasted and painted from scratch

did they actually ping you for different actuator fitted or do you want to run std boost ? if you have non-std actuatotor you could simply wire the gate open to make it run basically no boost

im with AGL and they are hopeless, billing is horrible you might be in contract with origin, if you arent then all is good

just doesnt make sense, why have a smaller compressor cover for an N1 variant ? ill check the data tonight when i get home, the row is probably wrong

are you sure one of the BNR34's is a 0.42a/r compressor? from memory only BNR32/BCNR33 is 0.42a/r front whereas BNR34 is 0.53a/r and thats for the std trim items, never heard of 0.42a/r BNR34 stockers, let alone N1 or nismo items

will you take $4.05? no way? how about $4.04? you must be crazy, ill take it street rods II style

my offer, $5.95

60 turns on the engine check light flash max knock level is 255 20/30 is ok

thanks for bumping a 3+ year old thread to do stock ecu reset undo the battery terminal and press the brake pedal a few times it will clear out all the power in the system and reset the stock ecu it will also reset the headunit and other non-nvram based electronics

thanks for doing that, can u set my run to 193rwkw 255 rears heathcote

good to see everyone and thanks for the club for the gift vouchers, $50 supercheap and $25 dan murphys vouchers is ace members raffle prize, thanks

+1

theres no transponder in the key, its just a normal key the remote locking would be a std remote central locking on a specific freqency/signal either copy it or replace with an aftermarket one