paulr33

my testing was on windows xp and it was sweeet no issues i have heard vista is generally ass and i wouldnt touch vista with a 10ft pole

flat lining on the AFM is the same as running a map sensor once you reach target boost the load cells do not increase anymore so you run along the same load axis so essentially you can pretend you have a map sensor and tune away with no change

trent had some issues with it working and i need to check with david as i dont know why either this is the cable that i have , i loaned it to hamish to test with ive used it flawlessly on my car a few times

specs are on my facebook page

watch looks alright, nice work pavers are still there come and get them

haha its a family guy quote

anyone got the cheat codes for mike tysons punch out

they also use replies etc that they get for hueristics and use that data to co-ordinate other scams etc so by just replying even if you trying to waste their time they use your responses to build dictionaries of real human responses and help build their spam tools etc

there's so many wars to lure people in so just be careful. no one wants to fork over their hard earned cash for a nice appealing car to be ripped off if you want to check out some honest owners and cars for sale etc come to the monthly sau vic meetings and meet some local members at least you can talk to them and see their cars or ask if they know any friends one's for sale. also a good way to check prices and get advise before buying we meet monthly http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...ay-t336397.html

the engine check light (orange engine icon) comes on when a stock sensor is out of range, disconnected, fault or broken view the sensor that is causing the issue by looking at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and look for a sensor with a black highlighted name of course if you had have read the PFC FAQ on page 1 you would have known that already on cars such as R32 and RX7 they do not have an engine check light (orange icon) and use the exhaust overtemp light instead (red CAT icon) so if you have HR32 then its the same deal, the light is used to advise you of a stock sensor out of range, not working or mangled

re-birthed, writen off and repaired, repossed car, locked in finance, engine mangled with unknown reliablity, other unknown car faults etc there are many ways you can be suckered in so its your choice. once you pay the cash, guess where the contact goes to? disconnected number..... please don't do it its a load of crap no right person in their right mind would sell a reasonable ER34 for that price at worst you would put it at 11,000 and wait for people to call, $6700 is scam alarms specially sammers like to make up believable stories and rely on the human factor of caring and trick you into thinking it's genunie its the first way hackers break into networks etc, they use stupid human tactics to fool you and trick you

ive got an R34 GTR Vspec for sale if you are interested $11,050 with 24,000 genunine kms on the clock and std vspec with exhaust no phone number, you can't come and check it out, but deposit the money into my bank acct and you can pick it up a 3 days........

is it really that much? like a working RB25det like mine for example rebuild back to std specs and compression - is it still 5k?

dont know sorry. the auto elec checked everything and bench tested the alternator and it was fine he then put it back in the car and did some testing and eventually found a missing fuse in the boot, he replaced it and problem solved he couldnt believe it either and was pretty surprised at the fix in the end given the fuse was in the boot

you dont have to but if you want the most out of it and you want to tune out the throttle response that you loose when you fit the FMIC, the piggyback (or remap) will let you do that. the fuel pump is a good insurance plan as its likely the stock one wont keep up with the required flow rate

anyone what a base price on a std spec rebuild back to factory specs for rb25det would be?

GTR MAF is 65mm GTST MAF is 80mm Z32 MAF is 80mm so you have the same issue if you go for twin GTST AFM's or twin Z32's both need 80mm adapters to make them fit. apparently you can stretch the stock rubber piping, but dont know how reliable/safe/resonable this is you will have to change wiring and plugs no matter what AFMs you go for (Z32 or GTST) the only difference is GTST AFM' will be cheaper to buy you should go for Nismo GTR AFM's instead these are 65mm and flow as much as Z32s and give better resolution as they are in narrow 65mm shell's the nismo GTR AFM's are direct fit to your std plugs and intake piping etc and you need an ECU to support it (same applies to twin Z32s or twin GTSTs as well)

ask yourself why is it being offered to you dirt cheap? are you buying someone else's problem? if its good and cheap why isn't the person using it

the voot voot voot is compressor surge that occurs when using no bov, or a spring that is too tight the bov does not open (or the car doesn't have one) and the result is the pressure in the pipework spies through the roof when the throttle body closes on gearchange the end result is presssure at the compressor wheel exceeds what it can flow, the compressor wheel surges and stalls and the result is the mid air collision voot voot voot noise mangled bov incorrect bov no bov are your causes fix these and the bov will open correctly when pressure spikes and vent the excess pressure to the front of the compressor wheel instead of trapping it in

"You have 30 minutes to move your car", "You have 10 minutes", "Your car has been impounded", "Your car has been crushed into a cube", "You have 30 minutes to move your cube".

do you mean the oil pressure sensor for the idiot light on the dash? from memory this is not ECU related and has its own control circuit etc the ECU has no idea of oil pressure

fuel pump and piggyback or stand alone or remap and clutch

the nuke's are gone sir looks like we've got ourselves a broken arrow

yeah sorry 040 would flow heaps more power wise i think they would past past 300rwkw somewhere not sure where

yes by real pump i mean non-walbro you said 040 and thats fine a good model, it should give you around 260rwkw safely and easily ive got a GTR one in mine and thats fine also, either is OK as long as its not wallbro no need to hardwire, hardwiring the pump is bandaid for poor pump flow at normal 12v in the skyline GTST has two stage pump control, low run and high run when you tap the throttle the high run circuit runs and you can hear the pump more drive around and watch ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK youll see FP1 blip when you tap the throttle