paulr33

yeah it might be a hit and miss, it may work ok or it may be enough to trip the factory R&R triggered by too much airflow meter load the R32 actuator is actually rated a bit around, around 11PSI is enough to make the spring open according to factory specs from nissan

powerfc, keep airflow meter and read the powerfc faq for all your questions (in my sig)

from memory on my ECR33 the EXT is 5.0v and it is not highlighted the PFC is throwing on the engine check light as the sensor is not connected or out of range perhaps try feeding the EXT input on the PFC a dummy value or a fixed 5v value or something? ill check what my ETC SENSOR SW CHECK looks like with a working exhaust temp sensor you cant check the voltage the fuel pump on the hand controller you can check if its runniing which is FP relay (black dot will be in it when its on) and the appllicable relay which means run pump and pump fuel vs active circuit (FP1 from memory) so at idle FP should be on and FP1 should light up when you tap the throttle, ie pump more fuel the pump will get whatever voltage comes out from the battery / car from memory in the ECR33 it's usually only 12 unless you hard wire it direct to the battery then it gets 14v flat. the walbro's need as much voltage as possible to run in ideal as they are rated / flow tested / quoted at 14v or higher and in the ECR33 it nevers gets that voltage i wouldnt expect 12v to make it run the car differently, but it would likely just cap your AFR's under max load at a given point - ie i wouldnt expect it to make it idle differnet, but it wouldnt be able to flow as much at full load vs 14v

el hand controller works on all powerfc's except toyota JZX100 auto, so yes it will work

using that phone today would make you feel like a commando out of iraq on a satelite GPS phone retro as

retro as 24 charge time, 1hr talk time awesome

nokia 3210

intercooler joiner has come apart check them all

yep its easy and the hand controller is setup like that for easy simple things etc, sensor sw check and look for the black sensor name that is your baddie

powerfc basics 101 read the pfc FAQ on how to work out why the engine check light is on or you can use the online hand controller emulator and check out ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK any sensor that is out of range, toast, not working, dead turns on the engine check light and will be highlighted in this screen in black background

whatever is wrong its going to be something simple to affect the power that drastic its going to be something simple CAS mangled or unstable sounds bang on the money ie at idle it checks out ok, but under load it might go spazzo there were some cheap ebay cam gears going around with poor bolts do u happen to have a cheap cam gear on it, have you checked the bolts slipping gears would make it run like ass which is what you see on power

yep fc hako is good works well and lets you use any of the powerfc software if your interested in checking it out ill be doing a talk on it at the next sau vic meeting SEP 21st check out vic section for next meeting info

to jump start it you can use the terminals in the engine bay there is the big chunky red terminal which you run the red lead to from the donor car battery/engine bay and then run black from metal on the donor car to metal on your engine bay thats it, with the other car off yours should crank if it doesnt wait a few minutes and try again if not, try with the other car running and see if it will crank over DO NOT MIX UP THE TERMINALS - RED to RED, BLACK (METAL) to BLACK (METAL) DO NOT MIX THEM UP OR GUESS OR HOPE FOR THE BEST if you arent sure dont do it if you get it wrong it fries every component in the car along with putting your health at great risk

for those interested ive added fc-hako to the powerfc faq http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...80#entry5430380

added final feature list of FCC 4 - the el hand controller added FC HAKO cable solution

be careful with this, there are different variants of E85 fuel so they arent all equal

also is the oil pressure idiot light on? if the guage is showing like a low reading ie 1.0kgcm2 and the idiot light is on i would say its all over but if its only the guage that is showing low then it might not be true game over i would certainly stop driving the car, check the basics, check oil level and check with a different guage

here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...1-2-t17349.html and here http://imports.motortraders.net.au/imports...p;model=Skyline

im surprised mine is still going and hasnt killed itself but ive always kept it at 0.85kgcm2 and never use a scramble/boost mode or run "high boost" etc set and forget and a good decent tune

hi trent ill bring my fc-hako to the sau vic meeting in sep for the presentation if you can make it you can check it out then

find out how many places near you tune adaptronic then find out how many places near you tune powerfc

anyone know where i can get these songs DJ Antoine - Underneath (Radio Mix) M'Black - Heartbreak (M'Black Radio Edit) happy to buy them itunes US has them but i cant buy it with my AUS based master card

powerfc is bulletproof and only Z32 is needed if you want to go past 200rwkw powerfc documentation is a plenty as is tuner support and local knowledge http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm

1997 R33 GTST 228,000 with 0.85kgcm2 daily and aggressive tune still have the standard turbo

the fc-hako cable is the same as the datalogit cable. they both plug into the powerfc and then plug into your laptop or PC and away you go be sure to note fc-hako is a cable solution and datalogit is a cable and software solution in the testing i have done it works the same and performs well and lets you use a number of applications the cable is on their website as per bk's post and ill be adding it to the powerfc FAQ this weekend with some photos etc there are photos on the site as well