paulr33

yep probably a factory refit nothing to worry about or get excitied over, still worth $2.95

looks great well done, lots of work has gone into it top marks recommended seller would buy again A+++++

see you all tonight

your only ecu option for tiptronic is nistune all the other options i can think of give you mangled gear changes so dont bother

yeah base price is 42k

no laws against owning, insuring or sitting in a turbo powered car on your p plates the law, does however state you cannot drive a turbo powered car on your p plates so its fine to purchase, get it insured, sit it in your driveway etc

yeah if the diff is shagged its probably slipping and not getting the power drive from the drive train

the nissan service manual would give you some clues on this im not sure what codes are stored and which ones arent but R&R is a temporary measure applied in real time at the point of issue and it is not an "error code" low octane map is applied to the state of tune and i dont even think low octane is an "error code" ie i dont know if you'll get an error code and im not sure ECR33 has flashing light style error codes? i thought all diag was via consult and only HR32 had error lights on ECU

the PIM is the scale and offset for the map sensor this allows you to run non std map sensors and scale it accordingly ie the std map sensor is 3 bar (peaks at 2bar boost) and has whatever offset and scale apexi set it to if you run a 4 bar map sensor (peaks at 3bar boost) then you need to adjust the scale and offset because both map sensors only go from 0v to 5v but one is 3 bar sweep and the other is 4 bar sweep so this allows you to get it so that with map sensor #1 1.2bar is say 2.1v and map sensor #2 is 1.2bar is 1.6v so its only used to run larger map sensors if you want more tuning resolution you need to edit the RPM and Load axis ramp to give you more or less load points so lets say you want 10k RPM limit you can leave as default and change upper ceiling RPM limit and youll use the same value from 8k to 10k or if you want to use more cells in that range (as most would) then you grab the RPM ramp in FC Edit (need datalogit) and scale it outself so that the 20 cells range form 0rpm to 10,000rpm

yep just off at the key should be enough ie at boot car the car clears all non-permenant errors etc and assumes clean slate

yep DATA INIT erases every setting on the powerfc back to default maps apexi shipped it with make sure you do the following after DATA INIT, but before you start the car the first time you read the powerfc faq BEFORE you do it make sure - set injectors if non std - set map sensors if non djetro std - set boost control kit on/off - learn how to do self idle adjust

there are also other protection modes but i cant be bothered typing them all up they are in the nissan service manual in clear english so its not hard to read ie if the AFM signal is disconnected rev is capped at 2500rpm is another "protection mode"

i think it's important to list them clearly as the others have said, as they are different things 1) R&R or excess airflow cut or boost protection or boost cut or fuel or overboost protection this is where the ECU detects too much airflow via the AFM signal and goes into a proteciton mode to save the engine from blowing up (or it assumes) so the timing and fuel is mega retarded to protect itself for the duration of the "excess" and it is usually around 4000rpm to 4500rpm after this "window" the ECU takes the protection off and car resumes normal power. this is obvious with std ECU and base mods and more boost the usual result is the car boosts fine, then all of a sudden it feels flat and sluggish then as you reach the Redline the power comes back on normally this R&R or protection is only applied during run time of the current cycle. that is, when you return to idle, or gearchange etc, the protection does NOT exist 2) ECU reverts low octane map this occurs when the stock ecu picks up detonation from the knock sensor or picks up a knock sensor fault the ecu revers to a lower octane map which is basically less timing and more fuel to protect itself. from the knock sensor it assumes you have put in penis fuel and runs the low octane map this usually occurs from penis fuel or too much boost / high intake temp the result is the whole ECU TUNE runs on sluggish maps until you power off the car. That is, the state of "low octane" map is permentant until you power the car off. so if you trip the too much detonation level once at any time then you are stuck on the low octane maps until you power off the car and clear is "state"

if you want std maps on the powerfc djetro (or any powerfc for that matter) you simply do a DATA INIT to reset it back to default map apexi shipped it with if you need more help i would suggest reading powerfc FAQ in my sig, all the info is in there but essentially if you want std maps (blow away current tune) you can do DATA INIT if you are unsure or want to practice try http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-emulator/menu.html

you will find more info on r31skylineclub.com

yeah the skyline.6te site is a good start, but the way it words the upgrades is misleading ie adding an intercooler you magically go from 165rwkw to 180rwkw this is incorrect and misleading and people will assume you do that only and magic power increase it also lists each mod as giving you power, which is misleading also i tihnk but thats a different topic, if someone could update that skyline.6te site that would be prefect and incoude some of more recent changes such as nistune etc

get it tuned with a wideband make sure 02 feedback is enabled drive normallly

the intercooler wont change your fuel usage much, but loading the car up constantly on boost will and you also have std ecu still so the mapping when you boost it pretty rich (ie waste fuel) you should either drive normal get a piggyback get a remap get a standalone

yep lnah you got it spot on there are some other things to note you can't run less boost the actuator spring ie you cant make the car run 4psi if you have a 7psi spring because when you floor it, boost will increase until the actuator opens so you cant make your controller (or any) give you less boost than the spring in the actuator, only more and the best setup is to run the ideal pressure target in the spring actuator and bleed 1 or 2psi you need ie dont use a 7psi and use a electronic controllre to run 22psi - its too much work for controller if you wanted to run 22psi you would change the actuator to an 18psi actuator and bleed 4 psi but this means, the minimum boost you run when you floor it (and the engine builds pressure) is 18psi

Standard R33 Pump - dont know LPH - 190 rwkw max and it was leaning out, upgraded to GTR 33 pump, direct swap

probably cheaper to sell your car and buy a BNR34 the sensors, wiring, controller, front diff, clutch packs, time, labour and parts would be a big bill i would ball park $10k all up ?

the bov is designed to open when the pressure in the throttle body area spikes well above the normal range so if you have 10psi in the pipework and you close the throttle body (ie gearchange) the throttle body closes and pressure spikes its ass off this is when the bov opens and dumps the pressure back into the front of the compressor wheel if the spring is too tight or no bov, the BOV does not open, the pressure spikes its ass off and collides mid air with itself the flutter noise is the air going back and forth in the pipework. for mythbusters fans go talk into the back of a desk pedestal fan when its on full speed youll notice as you talk your voice becomes chopped and you sound funny this is the same thing but amplified in your pipework when you close the throttle body and have no BOV or a mega tight spring the end result with no BOV or a tight spring is the air collision symptom we all know off this in turn can place stress on the compressor wheel as the compressor wheel can stall or recieve unstable compressor speeds this is also known as compressor surge. compressor surge occurs when pressure past the compressor wheel exceeds what its compressor can actually supply ie in the best efficiceny the map dictates it can flow 14psi of air at blah blah, but when you close the throttle body and have no bov lets say pressure spikes to 40psi the compressor cannot supply this pressure so it surges and will either stall or recieve survere shock on the shaft and wheel this is usually related to mangled compressor wheels, mashed blades, ripped apart shafts etc due to high speed shock or stall now i know billions of dudes go oh but ive run no bov for 27 years on 342psi on my vl turbo yep thats great, but each time you gear change no only does it stall the compressor it places wear and tear and you slow down the compressor for zero gain revent the excess pressure back to the front of the compressor to maintain momomentum

snake oil

not aware of any issues? earth is...... earth houses do it, sparkies do it, cars do it just join where ever you like perhaps it's their insurance policy, they can turn around and say, see nah we told you not to join them together, they should have been 2cm apart, its your installers fault

yes if you want to run more boost than what the acuator gives you need a controller a controller basically fakes the pressure signal to the actuator so that it doesnt open a bit like the old FakeCD for win98 in front of the controller is say 3psi and the controller lies to the actuator and says hey theres only 6psi dont open yet in front of the controller is say 7psi and the controller lies to the actuator and says hey theres only 6psi dont open yet in front of the controller is say 9psi and the controller lies to the actuator and says hey theres only 6psi dont open yet in front of the controller is say 10psi and the controller lies to the actuator and says hey theres only 7psi open now