paulr33

easiest way to bleed brakes?

given you have a powerfc when the light comes on, use the hand controller and read what it is telling you for an online demo and what you should be looking for check out http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-emulator/menu.html you want to goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and then with the online emulator, learn how to work out what is wrong

check which light you are seeing and check what it means in the service manual before guessing the cause there are two lights that come to mind one is the ENGINE CHECK LIGHT or orange ENGINE logo the other is the EXHAUST OVER TEMP or RED CAT LIGHT which one are you getting and check what it says in the service manual ie no point guessing AFM's coilpacks etc if it's the RED CAT LIGHT as that's the CAT TEMP sensor warning

having every value as 0.0 means correct the load axis to 0 this will make the car run like ass and im surprised it starts put them all back to 100.0 http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-emulator/me...t_afm_ramp.html the value as covered by the pfc hand controller emulator is correction scaling this influences the final load axis the pfc uses to select IGN/INJ correction off the maps

are you sure it doesn't average the 02 sensors from all that we have seen and people in the wild use, most parrell up the 02 sensor signal wire and it's a simple average of both to lean / richen up cylinders you can do that under correction for each cylinder, under injector size, but i have never known 02 values to be unique and to reference the 3/3 split

it should come from the intercooler pipe work like the stock setup did or even better from the compressor cover itself (r32 style) but you can also get it from the back of the plenum, where the stock boost guage get's it signal from

any compressor surge is bad, thats what the flutter noise is

from memory HR32 doesnt have OBD ver1 or ver2 connector i think you can only do consult diag via the wire short trick and it flashes a light code does your ECU have a light on it for diag ? Cars with ODB connector have the connector and no light on the ECU

take both for a drive on the street, that is the best comparison ive been a N/A skyline and i've driven mine for 7 years the GTST is light years ahead

check the AFM value during driving on consult because its been blowing the pipe off you may have physicall damaged the hotwire, its a simple wire after all

my fav pulsar GTIR GTR R32 like femno's or rosco's GTR R34 like aaron's evo 8 MR in dark grey silvia K - if I really wanted a turbo jap car and only had $2 to my bank acct supra like nigels one, twin td05's or 06's the R34 in 2f2f, minus the stupid nos purge vents

don dada that's a wierd combo 4.3 diff gears but then 19" wheels are you sure you really want this combo? no idea what it will look in mathematics / RPM wise but use a diff / ratio calculator you can find the R33 rb25 box 4th is 1.0x1 something, so that easy then work out 19" size and 4.3 multiplier or however it works

turn the boost upto around 10/12psi this will guarantee you hit R&R see if it's the same behaviour and it may be the same thing if you car behaves differnently to how it normally does, then under normal conditions you aren't hitting R&R R&R is dead obvious and run car runs like ass in a big spot between 4500rtpm and 6000rpm

yes and the clear issue for the Skyline series at least, when you go for a wallbro pump, is the skyline supplies 12v and all the flow rates / data etc are plotted @ 13.5v or even higher so yes the pump can flow blah blah, but install it a skyline, and the rate drops signifantly and re: fuel pump failures it's fine a fuel pump fails, as it stops, the fuel stops and the engine stalls its only when the pump can't keep up or maintain the required level that is puts the engine at risk ie like in r31nismoid's case, if the pump can't keep up, rather than making the engine stall, it will lean out the end result, if its bad enough, is the engine goes bang as the AF/R's come out at say 16 when they should 12

do you remember this song D:\Mp3\Albums\a to k\Billboard Top 100 Hits - 1992.(www.lokotorrents.com)\076 - Mc Hammer - Addams Gro.mp3 quality They do what they wanna do, say what they wanna say Live how they wanna live, play how they wanna play Dance how they wanna dance, kick and they slap a friend [The Addams Family]

sometimes its easier to buy a digital boost controller which is a guage as well saves extra junk and you get both benefits, accurate control with protection and digital readout

nah R&R basically just feels flat and empty ie all the power drops off but the car keeps going popping / farting flat out is either detonation misfire detonation is from too much boost, poor spark, poor spark gap, poor fuel, poor timing, poor compression, too high intake temp misfire is from poor spark, poor coils, damaged coils, damaged or mangled spark wiring / loom, other electricial issues

kurt smells like teen spirit

that sounds like R&R now are you sure you are setting it to 8psi and not reading 0.8kgcm2 on the stock guage? 0.8kgcm2 or 0.8 bar is very different to 8psi

go 2 door coupe GTT you will never look back, if unsure take one for a drive going from a prelude to a GTT is light years ahead

i reckon a changeover price to GT-SS or the garrett equivs (as per sig) shouldn't be too bad changeover price you could probably keep the std dumps and still change the turbo's and come out on top light years ahead (in response) ie the change of turbochargers will yield a better response improvement vs changing dumps

i dont think turning the boost up will help response but freeing up the exhaust is always a good thing but again i dont think it will shift the power band that much your main issue is the housings needs lots of flow to wake up you need aggressive tune, jungle juice, cam gears, aggressive tune and a good tune if your timing and tune is anything other than spot on, youll pay for the penalty in poor response as your rears as much larger than stock

wow ive checked your graph, that is horrible bog stock BCNR33 on the graph below yours looks to make its peak boost and torque spike at 113km/h around 4000rpm vs your stock Nismo R1 or whatever they are which make peak around 5200rpm thats horrible!!! does your car have non 4.11 diff gears also ?

do both guages match ie does digital readout on the MFD and the stock guage both show mega high temp ie, is it a sensor issue, or is it really 120+ deg water temp

sell them (someone will buy them for sure) and get a pair of brand new ball bearing top notch GT-SS's or garrett equivs the response you gain will far out weigh the current lag and lag penalty you have. specially on a bog stock 26