paulr33

HR32 6k ECR33 9k to 13k ER34 14k to 17k BNR34 42k to 55k BNR32 15k to 18k BCNR33 19k to 24k all prices are for Couple, Manual, Turbo versions N/A is cheaper, auto is cheaper, 4 door is cheaper

ask 5 people who have both versions and compare the std GCG hiflow has been bulletproof for years and should have lots of known users the PU hiflow is relatively new, different bearing type, and may have other unknown issue, ask 5 users who have one

yeah thats local drives onto the pc im about to buy 2 x wd hd tv live's and network the house then get a qnapp and maybe 3 or 4x 2TB drives

just do the basic stuff yourself at home, it's pretty easy and works out cheaper, plus you learn do oil filter, oil, check basic fluids and it is easy given your engine is 20+ year old any oil will be fine as long as it's new and within the std specs from the service manual so any 5w40 or 5w50 is fine and should be ok. oil filter is Z145A and the rest is normal brake fluid, power steeering etc for track days, it is a big difference so be sure to read up before even thinking about it ie have spare cash, change oil BEFORE track day, put extra oil, turn boost down, good tyres checked and drive like a normal (no hero)

leigh what do you use for your storage for all thoes movies

Okay. Bad news first. This place houses a security system which rivals most nuclear missile silos.

see u there

MY MOVIES in.txt

GAGF

front tires will save your life, plates will make you get pulled over or look like a knob so you decide i cant wait for many combinations of 2NVMYVL 2BENVS 33GTR 34GTR blah blah blah

my vote is busted rb25det normal and you rebuild it before it goes into your car you get a new engine already setup for the power you want and you can be sure its reliable and it will be in better condition than a 2nd hand NEO and probably come out cheaper ie busted RB25DET normal + rebuild < 2nd hand working RB25DET NEO

agree waste of time, money and you look like a clown usually im waiting for combo's like 2XGTSS 2XGTRS 2X2530 and so on....

yep will post it when i get home tried last night and angry forums

my numbers are straight off the R32 and R33 service manuals they indicate the minimum boost pressure before the actuator will start to open, that is, the minimum possible boost HR32 is 12psi R33 gtst AUTO is 5psi with 2psi bleed at 4500rpm by std solenoid, but base actuator is 5psi R33 gtst MANUAL is 7psi with 2psi bleed at 4500rpm by std solenoid, but base actuator is 7psi the service manuals could be wrong, but it is unlikely

the common actuator upgrade we see is the R33 GTST with R32 actuator thats the only common actuator change that im aware of ie you wouldnt fit a 16psi actuator to R33 GTST turbo as the turbo cant safely flow that much also look for std actuator specs for BNR34 and ER34 if anyone can measure/check or confirm them ?

just to be clear R32 GTST actuator is 12psi R33 GTST Manual actuator is 7psi R33 GTST Auto actuator is 5psi

fixing your mangled AFM, fix whatever else is wrong, put the intercooler back how it was (the new one) and reset the stock ECU and away you go

when the AFM is toast, the ECU caps RPM limit at 2500rpm so it is easy to pick up if the AFM is dead or wiring mangled as it wont rev past 2500rpm

thanks duncan on the back what is the part # and when you get it working can you get me some hires pics also pics of ETC, VERSION

yeah if you only want 180rwkw the rb25 in std form should be good for that on RB20

should be able to pick one up around $250 if you are patient yeah its the same solenoid as the AVC-R and same map sensor people who say bad things about the AVC-R don't know how to use it and how to set it up it takes a bit of time and paitence to set it up properly and get gear judge working the powerfc kit is basic set and forget control no gear judge etc less wires, plug in and done, re-uses in existing wiring and boost correcton enabled on the ECU and logging

powerfc boost control kit

the sky is the limit really, what model GTR, what mods do you have, how much power do you want and how much do you want to spend

sweet thanks for tip so keep bleeding until all bubbles/air gone ive only done front 2 calipers, so only bleed those ones yeah

find another sau vic member in your area and offer free beer/pizza to come over and help you have posted quite a few threads lately which would be easier to diag/check/test with someone local you could also compare their car to yours to see and try and isolate the source easier just a thought