paulr33

yes you have to change a bit as the std AFMs are 65mm and the Z32s are 80mm so your ducting pipework wont fit and the pod filters wont fit either if you havent brought them yet check out the nismo GTR afms they are essentially Z32 inside GTR 65mm shell so they are direct swap and flow just as much as Z32 without changing the pipework sizes and getting new filters / adapters etc

try what diesel motors do with their glow plugs trick? run the lines around the exhaust manifold once it is at temp though, you would want to bypass this

sounds ok to me, are you sure it says 1m away? that's quite a bit from the turbocharger outlet

hi to clear up a few things. you MUST consult the install manual for the wideband sensor, don't just install it and hope for the best. wideband 02 sensors are very sensitive and can fail easily and are costly if you break them for stupid reasons. i recommend you read the install documenation as they have very specific mounting instructions. ie dont mount them upside down, after the turbo outlet is OK, the closer is generally better etc if you remove the factory 02 sensor and put a wideband 02 sensor in the same bung then depending if your 02 sensor has a controller box, these sometimes have a narrow band 1v output you should then run this to your ECU so that you get working normal closed loop feedback and get normal economy with an poorly tuned cruise AF/R setup and a wideband sensor and the stocker unplugged your economy will be ordinary because when you are on closed loop / light cruise the ECU has no narrowband input so it cant trim accordingly so the recommended way is use a wideband with its own AFR guage, a narrowband conrtoller 1v output to the ECU you are using

install it in the place of the original narrow band sensor if you are using it with a narrow band emulator to your ECU or you can install it inline with your normal narrow band sensor, but it needs an exhaust bung and thread like your normal 02 sensor. an exhaust shop can do this for you

what is the state of the tune? what do the AF/Rs look like why instantly blame the tuner? whats the engine compression like? how many km's on the engine etc?

if your making enough power to warrant a Z32 you really should get a standalone ECU the SAFC really is a basic piggyback patchjob and youll find much more gains and a better overall from a stand alone have you looked into a stand alone like a powerfc or a remap (nistune) or another stand alone ecu? for full load your AF/R should be 12 to 12.5 and for light cruise you can go as lean as 15.0 to get some good economy

no way it will fit

check your serial # FCC NT should work on PFC RB25 powerfc A hand controller from ECR33 serial # powerfc should NOT work on RB25 PFC serial # as they are different models ie PFC RB25 needs FCC N001 which is FCC NT PFC ECR33 needs FCC X001 which is FCC2 or FCC3 you can buy the new EL version which will work

updated added PFC EL hand controller pics removed apexi ECR33 djetro version (non official product)

krzyuisuisuisuis you can use SIMR (real car simulator) to work out what stock BCNR33 does at 100km/h (and basti) RPM wise and then apply 4.3 diff gears to see what 100km/h is

dont know what level the ECU consideres high to trigger low octane map but a knock of 30 at 5000rpm might be enough to trip it

thanks that looks heaps better and good to confirm it is in fact FCC4 as this hand controller works on every version of powerfc except toyota Auto which is even bettter ie ap eng, pro, normal spec and every car i will add to the PFC FAQ shortly thanks again i might get one too, looks a lot better

if it's a bog stock ECR33 auto then boost is 5psi switched to 7psi at 4500rpm if its a bog stock ECR33 manual then boost is 7psi swithced to 9psi at 4500rpm for 100km/h in ECR33 manual it is 2650rpm for 100km/h in ECR33 auto it would be around 2850rpm ish ?

yeah so HR32 ECU does not have R&R feature for excess airflow meter load but it does have factory knock map / low octane penis fuel mapping when you tuned the car did you tune the low octane map also when you log do you see knocking it souinds like its running well picks up a fair amount of knocking and reverts to low octane penis fuel map which is where all your power goes out the window

wow didnt know auto 33 had higher diff gears than manual so it runs less boost but higher diff gears fair nuff

yeah 4.3 is more normal, no one would sell aftermarket 3.4 diff gears, it would be horrible so yeah with 4.3 you will get quicker acceleration and lower top end speed and at 100km./h youll rev more, but your traction will be more important as it will likely induce more wheel spin as the rotation speed is higher for lower gears so when you come on power it will likely wheelspin even more if you dont have good suspension/tyres/rear setup

hmm thats odd, im not even sure HR32 ECU has R&R mapping inside it ? from memory it was only ECR33 ECU that has this feature in it, can anyone confirm? but thast what it looks like, your AFM peaks near 4.7v and kablammo it drops all the timing on the floor the Q45 is ok if you only want 250rwkw but for most users its annoying because its bigger, different plug, it's large so you ahve to change pipework, POD etc and caps out well before a normal Z32

it looks like the normal rich and retard in the stock ecu when it picks up too much airflow meter load have you got a non-std ECU or hacked ecu or remapped ecu (ie to remove the std airflow rich and retard) also Q45 is ass, i wouldnt even bother, sell it and go for a std Z32 and be done with it proven results time and time again and youll have less hassles and save time/money

yeah with a fake Z32 once you bring the car on power it runs like ass and the signal would be all over the shop ie i dont think you could get a good stable tune from the fake z32

3.4 diff gears???? are you sure????? thats like vl auto style or commodore 3 speed auto diff gears damn thats horrible, that will kill your cars acceleration, but your top speed will be mega if you want more acceleration go for 4.3 GTS4 diff gears or evo style 4.5 4.11 is about right for the normal skyline. are you sure it is 3.4 diff gears? it sounds like 4.3 no one would ever sell an aftermarket skyline diff with 3.4 as an upgrade

without the hand controller it is all guess work get a hand controller and check the peak values and ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK when it occurs it's not VVT, it's VCT and the changeover point is 4700rpm

check if the filter type you are using if its OEM it is quiet as if its an aftermarket K&N style one it is the same as using a pod - ie very open holes and lets lots of noise out

hello the Q45 specs are wrong and grossly miscalculated, even apexi caps them at 230rwkw from their powerfc documentation even though we all assume they are bigger and better (they arent). single z32 is good for around 360rwkw as per apexi specs and the powerfc will throw the engine light when you max it at 5.0v, not at 4.5v or anything less than 5v as adriano said it wont be linear so unless you peak 5.1v on the AFM don't worry about maxing it out. and if you max it at 6500rpm its not a big deal, it just means you run out of load cells and stick on the same axis (map sensor style on full boost) so no loss if you max a single Z32 your optoins are twin Z32 or map sensor dont bother with Q45 AFM, it is pointless and a waste of time and money

should have checked this before buying?